Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631]

 

New build??

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Weather has finally got to the can work on this again. Hoping to wrap it up soon. Slow and time consuming right now. A lot of cutting and fitting.

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Finally tying the loose ends up on this one....kitchen was flooded from a disconnected drain pipe under the sink.

It turned into one of those jobs...while you're here, better go ahead and paint 1/2 of the rest of the house and replace 4 windows.

The tile hasn't been buffed or caulked in this picture.

 

Nice!!

 

Just finished two balconies on the same job. Coming back to do a deck on grade as well.

the guy bent over the ac condensor is my HO cutting me a check!

Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631]

 

Did a stacked unit in a kitchen, designed it with side access. Pair of side doors to match the face doors.

The home got sold about 2 years after I did this. The new owners tore everything out and threw it in the garbage.

Sorry about the sideways pictures, posting from my iPad.

First pic is of a corner cab I did in the same home—-doh....

Tom

 

 

View attachment 475381

View attachment 475383

Was this the house we stayed in?

 

Thank you Robie

Tom

 

I have no side access. Left side is the wall and right side is more cabinets. And on top of it those are flipper doors so they slide into the cabinet. Plus the builder is a moron and planed this out without asking anyone and put the shutoff box right at the dryer vent exit. I'm actually thinking about lowering it so I can have more space.

 

Once upon a time, I designed a stacked set between a wall on the right and cabinets on the left (2 inches of clearance each side). Guys brought the units in. They trapped one guy behind with a small step stool tied to a rope. He did the hook-ups then we pulled him up on top of the units. Pulled the rope with the stool out.

Doesn’t help Leo with cabs above. I just thought I’d confess to being stupid! :laughing:

 

Hell, I'd put an access panel in the back wall in the other room if the hookup box wasn't right in the way of the vent on the back of the dryer.

 

Finally placed all the concrete in our icf foundation... Had a couple small blow outs that were thankfully going to be below grade.
Spent the afternoon today spraying Hardie shakes for our other reno project and building a precarious house of cards.

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How thick is the concrete in those blocks?? It seems thin to hold all that backfill?

 

The stacked W/D cabinet complete.

Simple hook to hang the ironing board.

Tom

 

Well, that's better.

 

Wish I had that kind of room. I have a soffit that is 29" that I have to keep under too.

 

Nothing a checkbook and demo saw won't fix....:laughing:

Tom

 

I build cabinets :whistling

 

Sub it too Sno....make the mark up-----doh:blink:

Tom

 

finally got this old barn fixed back up!!!
its post and beam from the 1880's
new roof
rebuilt the cupola
new trusses for both lean to's
rebuilt one end of the barn
soffit and fascia
stripped and shimmed the roof to straighten it out
added rafter and collar ties after the new lvls
took about 2-1/2 months

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finally got this old barn fixed back up!!!
its post and beam from the 1880's
new roof
rebuilt the cupola
new trusses for both lean to's
rebuilt one end of the barn
soffit and fascia
stripped and shimmed the roof to straighten it out
added rafter and collar ties after the new lvls
took about 2-1/2 months

well done sir !

 

Looks nice inside and out.

 

Finally got to install that washer dryer cabinet. A stacked Blomberg set. I've struggled with the design because of the lack of space and odd (stupid, thoughtless) setup that they left me to deal with. The dryer vent to the outside was low to the ground on the left. The dryer is on top and the vent port was right in front of the water box in the wall. The soffit came out 29", if I had 30" it would have made my life a lot easier. There was a pipe in the wall that was more outside the wall and right at the right gable of the cabinet. Those were my initial worries.

When we got there we found the floor from the left side of the cabinet to the right dropped 3/8" over 37". The floor rose 1/8" from the front of the cabinet to the rear. The left hand wall tipped out by 7/8". Arrrrrrggg!!!!!

We adjusted for all that which took quite some time. Mounted the doors and screwed the cabinet to the wall and ceiling and adjusted the doors. I had it all adjusted in the shop but for whatever reason I had to do a major adjustment on one of the pocket door slides. Got that all done and the cabinet was installed.

Then the next 2 hours we had to deal with getting the washer/dryer setup with the vent hose, water lines and electrical. Had to flip the outlet over for starters. I used this vent system which worked out really good for our situation.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R0DXLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


We put it all together and hoped for the best. BTW, I didn't sleep well at all last night because I was so unsure that we could pull it off. So we pushed the set into the cabinet and about half way in we assessed what was there. Had to get a ladder to see what was going on, adjusted a few things and pushed it in the rest of the way. The dryer vent 90º was rubbing against the rubber water hose but everything fit and the doors worked perfectly. We're going to get braided SS hoses and a 45º adapter to get the hose out of the way from the 90º duct. We'll be happy after that.

Then we put the cabinet insert together, cut a slot for the dryer vent hose and electrical cord, slipped it into place and we were done for the day. Still have to go back and install the sink cabinet. Took a lot longer than expected, but IT FIT!!. So I was really happy.

 

I had this built for an old craftsmen a bit ago

The bottom is removable, with stainless pan, the bead board back is removable to access power,drain, and water. The sides slide out for detergents knobs aren’t on in pic yet


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Looks nice. I like the way you faked the double doors in front of the washer/dryer.

 

Leo,

Looks great.

Dumb question time;

Could you have set the washer/dryer, connected it, then slid the the cabinet shell in place then the insert in place?

Tom

 

No. If you look at the bottom of the cabinet you'll see a pc of 1/2" oak plywood. I needed to put that there to stabilize the bottom dimension of the cabinet and to provide a dado for the insert to slide into so it would stay put.

So the cabinet is locked in place. The washer/dryer is slid into place after connecting the vent, water and electrical. Then the insert is slid into place. Without the insert in there there is about 4 1/8" of space for wiggle room. The cabinet itself is pretty flimsy because it has no back, no bottom rail on the face frame and the left side is only 1/2 the depth of the right side. It's very reliant on being screwed to the wall and floor to make it rigid.

If the floor and walls weren't so out of wack, this would have been so much easier. My world for plumb, level and true.

 

Thanks Leo.

Everyone’s world dealing with lack of plumb, level, square. New 6 mill home, a wall is 1-1/4" out of square in 27", 3 mill home I just measured all the walls getting casework are out of plumb and out of square, some by more than 2" in 8’.

Tom

 

Leo, what pocket door hardware did you use?

 

KV 8090 Series Pivot Door Slides

 

Dealt with all the details and upgrades to the washer/dryer cabinet. Traded out the rubber hoses that came with the machine to braided SS hoses. Added a 45º adapter to the hot and cold water spigots to make room for the vent 90º duct that was touching one of the hoses because of the placement of the water and drain box. Drilled some 1/8" holes through the water box and out the back wall so we can put an access to the valves because there is no way to turn them on or off currently. No real planning from the GC on this.

Then onto the sink cabinet. Floor was still not at all plumb, 1/8" higher on the right and another 1/8" from the front to back. Scribed it to the floor, couple of screws through the washer/dryer cabinet into the left style of the sink cabinet and a few more in the wall. Last thing to do was the end of the run panel. Scribed to the floor, removed the baseboard and reinstalled it tight to the panel and then a total clean up.

Still need to put a small molding to the ceiling and make a panel for the small refrigerator.

 

I was being watched all day. And she didn't even try to make conversation, just sat there and stared lol


I installed oak trapezoids today. At the bottom it sloped to the left 3/8, top was 3/4-7/8 out from right to left. The stringers had slight curves in the middle of the tread depth, fun times. Of course the underside is rocked, so I couldn't really fix some of the issues. I added screws from the tread to the riser to pull then back together and stiffen everything up the best I could.

I only have the 55" rails for my makita, so I made a spacer from a piece of plywood to put against the riser and get me a nice clean edge for the caps, finished the cuts off with my sawzall. Worked nicely and kept the dust to a minimum.

Client is very happy with how it turned out, she had done the finish work on the treads and risers before I got there.

-Rich

 

She gonna need a case of caulk.

 

@Leo--what's your plan at the top of the W/D cab where it meets the ceiling?