So she wanted the cabinets to touch both the door casing and the window trim, tight. Tried to explain to her it can't be done easily. Probably have to take off the window trim. She didn't like that idea and I also said I'd put it back on and caulk it in but that was as much as I would do, she could hire a painter to do the other work. Wrote that into the contract.
But I was able to figure out a way around it. Removable end panel with a rabbeted corner bead. After great deliberation, coping to the floor (out 3/8" over 32") and coping to the right (or left) wall that had a 3/16" lean and coping the end panel to the back wall (floor dropped 3/8" over 20" and wall leaned back over 1/4") and rabbet planing the door trim which had a 1/16" curve in it which actually did impact the ability to get the cabinet to swing into the space without being sprung we finally go the cabinet to swing into place with the appropriate 1 3/16" of space between the window trim and cabinet so the end panel could slip in and be tight against the trim.
And then we got to do the same with the left cabinet.
Copied the moldings from the house by stealing a 6" section from above the cabinet. Made them in the shop, the cove and the picture hanging molding. The flat molding with a small profile on the bottom edge was so I could stand the cabinet up in the room without making it in two parts. Plus it made it so the cabinet would be below the ceiling molding when installed. The ceiling was 4 1/2" from the top of the cabinet at the rear and about 4"-4 1/4" at the front. So 1/2" drop over 20". Fun is.....
Had to take an 1/8" off the radiator cover so it would be able to go between the cabinets which had the same space as the cover was wide.