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I tried a 60 pack of cheap blades from amazon. Wasn’t bad. Diamond grout blade from H.F. Not bad for seldom use.
grinder is great though if practical. I once cut a pretty clean line breaking tile with just a hammer and home made scratch awl. Not ideal but worked great. Generally get the 3 pack of dremel carbide blades for the zip-zip. Lasts long enough for the price.
 
That's because you are buying name brand blades. Although not diamond blades I've gone to the dark side and buy my multitool blades for about a buck a pc. Are they as good as name brand. Nope. But they are 10 to 13 times cheaper and last about 1/2 the time. So you use $2 in blades instead of $12 each.

I'd try something like this to see if it'll work good enough. It likely will.
Did you look at the video for that blade? A minute and 30 seconds to do 3"... yikes... :oops:
 
That's because you are buying name brand blades. Although not diamond blades I've gone to the dark side and buy my multitool blades for about a buck a pc. Are they as good as name brand. Nope. But they are 10 to 13 times cheaper and last about 1/2 the time. So you use $2 in blades instead of $12 each.

I'd try something like this to see if it'll work good enough. It likely will.
I did try these EzArc blades and they sucked. EzArc. Never again.

For our next grout removal job I am going to stay with the grinder but fashion a dust collection attachment for it. Or maybe bite the bullet and buy one of these: Maxvac

The other problem with those expensive Diablo blades is that they are hard to find locally. My True Value had one, Ace had none, local HD had one. Had to order from the HD an hour away.

I've also come to the realization that so long as I am installing grout of the same color, it's ok if I dont get all the old grout ou of the corners. So long as its in solid shape and I can score it a little bit, the new grout seems to adhere well enough. I also use caulk where the tile changes plane so that hides a little of the old grout
 
I need to drill 40 3/8" holes for railing post plates. The bolts have to go thru and connect to a plate on the bottom of the deck. 4 per post. The depth is 9.5".

So they have to be precise. What do you guys think of this?
Image
 
I'm sure it'll work OK. But perfect 90Âş. Not sure.
 
Does it have 9" of travel? Or do you need to swap out bits?
 
Can you mark it out and drill from the top and bottom, meet in the middle?

If you can only drill from the top, I would want something beefier.

 
@Calidecks you can rent a magnetic drill and get a hunk of 3/8” or 1/2” steel, large enough to clamp down real good, with the center bored out about a 2 or 3 inch diameter. Then you can see your marks on the deck.

Cumbersome but solid.

Don’t rent a 15year old clapped out drill. You’ll have to figure out how much travel you need up and down on the drill.
 
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