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Post A Picture Of Your Current Job (Part III)

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796K views 12K replies 233 participants last post by  tjbnwi  
#1 ·
Post a picture of your current job.

Previous Threads.
Part I
Part II
 
#2,137 ·
See, now I like flashing that works, and that looks like it works.
Around here if it looks "out of place" to the builder it's omitted or scaled back.
I was working for someone a little over a year ago and installed a proper kick out flashing at an intersecting roofline to wall transition.
Because it went from the wall sheathing and had to protrude past the 3/4" rainscreen plus the thickness of the Hardie siding it was fairly sizable.
After the siding was complete I was back on site and had a look at how they'd handled the cut around the kick out.... Turns out they had cut out nearly flush with the siding afterwards because it "didn't look right" to them... [emoji19]


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#2,138 ·
The beginning of a modest 5 bedroom build.
Site has been demoed of all previously existing buildings and topsoil, and the geotech engineer has given their report.
To meet the requirements of the report we've had to remove all previous backfill from the prior homes build and then replace with structural fill and pack to their requirements.
A follow up from the geotech determined that we'd met their requirements and we have started placing footings.
We were rained out on Friday so we'll get back to it on Monday morning.


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T
#2,141 ·
About a month left on this fairly extensive reno. My first real GC job. The fuax brick wall turned out great. We were originally going to line the opening with wood but changed it to brick corners. The alder mantel and shelving I built are getting cleared right now.
 

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#2,154 ·
Finally got this painted. A couple of nibs in the corner but no sags or drools.

Image
 
#2,155 ·
Finally got this painted. A couple of nibs in the corner but no sags or drools.

Image
 
#2,157 ·
Me too.
 
#2,158 ·
Option A
Image


Option B
Image


Option A is the one that's easiest to do and the least to produce damage to the finish. But it has a very high drag factor because it sticks up so far. It's a 40 minute drive.

Option B keeps a low profile and I'll have to put a pc of plywood in the truck to extend the reach a bit beyond the 10' with the gate down. But it rests on the corners so there is a higher chance of damage. Lots of blankets and padding.

Option B is what I'd prefer to do.
 
#2,162 ·
Think 65 miles per hour for 45 minutes with 3.75 feet exposed as a sail. Going to be a lot of stresses there too. The other is much more aerodynamic and I can put a diagonal along the seat to keep them from trying to spread.
 
#2,161 ·
Not worried at all about rigidity. I could screw into the ends of the plywood with a diagonal if I wanted to. Both ends are butted against a cabinet minus about 2" on the top of the left side.
 
#2,174 ·
Or a skid of 2" foam board

Or a piece of corrugated roof metal on the ladder rack on a windy day.
The guy at the roofing place saw it happen right after I pulled out, and was trying to control his laughter without too much success when I came back in and sheepishly asked for another 25' piece.

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