"Hell on earth" rentals going good. Getting water taps in Kingsland to start three more right when these are done, trying to make a deal on 4 acres I can bring water into

Sorry the window is in the way of the pic, had enough of this BS for today, window stays up 😆

 

"Hell on earth" rentals going good. Getting water taps in Kingsland to start three more right when these are done, trying to make a deal on 4 acres I can bring water into

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Sorry the window is in the way of the pic, had enough of this BS for today, window stays up 😆
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What will you get a month for those? Here you would get about $1,800 - $2000 a month and have a waiting list to get in. Do you charge HOA dues for maintenance? Do you walk through once or twice a year to make sure they aren't trashing the place?

Awesome you are building rentals brand new, so many less headaches provided you get decent renters.

 

You rent those by the hour?

 

By the minute.

31 cents a minute, 1 year lease. Haven't any sit more than about a week. These will have covered parking, yards in the back

 

Flooring contractor doing an excellent job of covering his hardwood on our other Tanglewood job.

 

Cabinets going in at our Spicewood custom. Hot and nasty today but the breeze on that hilltop with windows and doors open was nice and breezy. That way it was more like a convection oven with a fan blowing hot air around and not just a flat still oven experience, that way your cooked evenly all the way through 😆 Hope it eases off soon while the guys are installing trim.

Butlers pantry with full lowers, full uppers, quartz top and tile backsplash. Kitchens still missing shaker panels on the island and hood

Huge master closet, will have adjustable shelves and chrome closet rods, island with drawers in both ends and quartz top, chandelier. Tons of cabinets in the jack and Jill, laundry will have quartz tops that will go over the washer and dryer for a folding table. Ship lap in the back of the lockers in the utility, and in the kids bathrooms

Tons of cabinets for 3000 sq ft

Master bedroom will have paint grade ceiling beams, goes well with the limestone fireplace. Great room will be a distressed/dual stain cedar beam in the ridge, Toungue and groove wood ceiling in the coffer. The small beams in the pics on the ceiling are size samples

The study will have a black shaker media wall

 

Boat docks going again, it's been ridiculous dealing with the architect on it. We just left until she finished everything, I don't know why architects try and piece meal drawings.

Beefy, joists sit on angle iron and we welded tabs on the end with bolts. Garapa decks, floating steel stairs and mechanical lock shake siding with Marvin doors and windows for the apartment. All the steel is treated, primed and Two coats of DTM

The other dock that's finished is one with an apartment we built about 7 years ago

 

Steel huh. Is it treated for rusting?

 

Yeah, ospho.

Steels the only way to go in the Lake, I've torn a chit ton of wood docks out

 

Well that's good. And on top of it it's a lake, not seawater.

 

Galvanized is a must on the coast.

 

Cold dipped or electro-galvanized?

 

Perc-Rite septic drip dispersal system. The tubing has a "drip hole" every 2'. Effluent is pumped in for a few minutes every 2.5 hrs, 25 gallons at a time, 24 hrs/day. Had to go with this system because perc tests drained too quickly. Had quotes for $50-60K; we DIY'd it for considerably less.

Hate the need for so much reliance on electromechanics with inevitable wear failures, but whatchagonnado?

 

Hot as Hades. Slab prep.

 

Do they water/hydrate the slab after placing to prevent blistering?

Tom

 

I've never seen blistering, but watering a slab continually will reduce small non-structural cracking and more importantly will slow the hydration process down. Curing of concrete is a chemical process and the concrete loses water too fast in high temperatures. The key in watering a slab is too keep it wet 100% of the time, not watering it, letting it dry out, then watering it again, over and over. Which I have seen some people do. The best technique I've ever used was white cotton curing blankets that you cover the slab with and saturate with water, they will stay wet for days.

 

We used to put a layer of sand over the entire slab and keep it wet to slow the curing.


Mike.
___
[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

60 sheen, cured about an hour, dry to touch.

Tom

 

Countertops?

 

Parts for bedroom furniture

Tom

 

Formica looks so realistic today.

 

How about some 90 sheen, hour cure, dry to touch.

Tom

 

He's gonna slap you.

 

This is the architect's link to a new home I recently built, not a large house but well done interiors.

Family Retreat – Newberry Architecture

newberryarchitecture.com

 

Framing going up at Kilronan. Big enough to put two crews on- had 9 men there yesterday. Need a drone, at 300 ft across only way to get it on one shot is birds eye

 

You building more Texas "Suites" LOL

 

What's that

 

Simple job I hope. It's refinishing so there's the potential for this to go sideways. No price given so that'll help.

2 Oak doors that are 36 x 94 1/2". Fire rated so heavy beasts. They are only bringing one to me at a time so they can have a functioning bathroom at the building. So that means I get to charge even more because I get to do the same thing twice instead of 2 at the same time.

Stated off with trying to burn the finish off and that wasn't working well. So I went to 100 grit sanding and that was slow but working. So when I reached the 5th pc of sandpaper and I wasn't even half way done I got the 40 grit paper out and whooo boy. That worked really nice. Takes abotu 1 1/2 sheets per side. and then just sand it with 100 grit to take the roughness out of it. It's painted so I don't have to worry about swirls or anything and the rougher it is the better the primer will grip.

Here it is after the 40 grit. Looks like the closer was leaking oil. That should be fun to finish.

And this is the seen side of the door when you walk in. I did a grain fill on the Oak just to see how it will work. Just doing one coat, it is what it is: Not expecting dead flat but greatly reduced grain telegraphing. Only doing it because I have the grain fill in the shop.

Going to be primed black and then put a satin clear coat on them.

 

Mechanicals going in at Knotty Oaks

 

Just making some windows, getting equipment dialed in that hasn't been used in half a century. Trying to get ready for another 1k bf of lumber to show up Tuesday morning.

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Just making some windows, getting equipment dialed in that hasn't been used in half a century. Trying to get ready for another 1k bf of lumber to show up Tuesday morning. View attachment 552713 View attachment 552714 View attachment 552715 View attachment 552716

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Nice to see you Darcy. Hope all is well wIth you and the family.

Tom

 

The oil spot I mentioned is drying slower than the rest of the door. Should be interesting.

I hate interesting when it comes to finishing.

 

Shellac over the spot?

Tom

 

The view is pretty much the only thing left that interests me at this job.
I'll throw some more pics up in the morning.

 

Got the 1st side of the door finished. Did the final coat 20 minutes ago. I want to be able to flip it over sometime tomorrow and this beast weighs over 125lbs so I don't want to imprint the finish. The oil spot dried fine, just took longer than the rest. I had some air blowing over it for 20 minutes. After that I scuffed the black primer and put on another coat. After that no scuffing, just the clear coat. As long as it's done within an hour it'll burn in. And then I went home, had dinner, chatted with the wife, she went to bed, watched some telly and then when a show came up that I didn't have interest in I went to the shop and scuffed the clear and put on the final coat. Sorry, no pic. It would have been wet and glossy, not satin.