John, sure sounds like you want to carve corbels.....

And I make doors.....

 

Figured you did. The guy he learned under does too, but he's set up for it. Matt's made lots of doors but for our operation as a GC he's right those dudes could make me more money doing something else and sub the doors.

 

I like the quality control. Plus the only lead time is me. Problem with a door, make a new one and have it to the client the next day. I have the bare minimum. 3 shapers. Cope, Stick and panel cutter. All but one profile is just a swap out and a height adjustment. Fences all stay the same.

 

Ya, I corrected myself when I realized what quote you were referring to. Real work makes money, my work on the furnace costs money. It's still work though. I know, I'm doing it.

 

Tilt wall demo
Sometimes it's nice not to listen to the saw cutter, the chipping hammer, getting slurry all over, dust, etc etc.

Installed new steel supports - BY OTHERS
14 hrs to prep it
Then called the crane in to pick them.

2 panels, each was 6'x26'hx 8" -- roughly 14,000 lbs ea
Crane 60 lf away
Flush cut the Ts from the rooftop to separate
Cut 4" sliver on exterior, lower roof to give ourselves some room
2nd piece was wedged against another cmu wall outside so had crane put about 18,000 of tension, then drove in wedges in the bottom cut to get it to pop
Had saw cutter cut them in half to fit the can.
2 day job

Best thing about it, it was 55-60 deg day both days on the roof!

 

A little walk in shower in an addition for a customer. Stack stone with some old reclaimed barn wood. Gas fireplace in bedroom to match.

 

Got to hand cut a nice hip roof for an addition. Too bad engineers get mixed up in this... Had to install a 2000lb steel beam to basically hold up the ceiling. Span is only 19 feet.

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house is getting a full remodel, same job as the one where I posted the headers that didn’t have any support couple months ago 😂 removed the fireplace on the inside, windows are back ordered so sealed all that up and will Sheetrock over it till windows get in, rest of the fireplace removal will happen at that time

 

and the non-money-making work since I’m married to the “customer” 😂 tossed a couple stairs worth of lights up to see what way the wifey wanted them before I ran everything

 

and the non-money-making work since I’m married to the “customer” 😂 tossed a couple stairs worth of lights up to see what way the wifey wanted them before I ran everything
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Lots of different ways to get paid. 😗

 

12 year old and I put this together at home.

He was happy to shoot a can of black spray paint that wouldn’t spray when we were done. In front of the lower green target.

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To everything, turn, turn ,turn….

Tom

 

Did more work over the weekend on the furnace build. Saturday I finished up the back wall ducting. Had to do about 6 feet of length to finish up the 23' run and then did a shorter 6.5' run. The last section of the long run is still removable. What you see sticking up is the foil tape. I cut the white protecting paper and stuck the foil tap on the sides of the duct. When I put the vent into the room I'll peel the paper and seal the duct.

Here it is in the ceiling in the hallway below

Then I had to push more crap around so I could pull up more floor to put the return ducting in.
Unfortunately I neglected to account for the runs under the hallway so I ran short of the 1/2" isoboard so I couldn't finish the runs. Probably going to need 3 more sheets. Too bad no one has it currently.

So on Sunday I moved on to the next thing. I picked up nipples and fittings so I could properly locate where the furnace would actually go. I made it work out so the supply side duct would be 16' long which works out well with the 8' long sheets.

I thought I would start on the supply duct but decided to go to electrical. I had to do this before the return ducts were permanent as the wiring needed to go in the same areas. So back up to the box store for electrical and some aluminum.

Originally when I put the sprayroom in I ran a 3 phase circuit for my fan and 3 more hots for the room. I used one line for lights and another for outlets. The 3rd was unused, until now. I tapped off that leg and used MC to run to the switch I had on the furnace.

Then I decided to run the wire for the thermostat. That was fun . I had to fish it through an insulated wall. Couldn't find my fish tape so I had a roll of 12-2 which I thought was stiff enough to stay true. I drilled a 3/4x2" hole in the sheetrock for the 5 wire cable and the thermostat. I drilled a 3/4" hole in the double plate right next to the wall so I'd be in between the insulation and the sheetrock. 6 tries with no success. I cut a Poplar board 3/32" thick and 5/8" wide. I put a hole near the end and marked a line at 49" which was where the hole should be. Put the "fish board" down the hole and amazingly I nailed it 1st try. Woo Hoo.

Ran the wire up to the furnace. I took the copper wire out of the remaining MC shield and inserted the thermostat wire into it for protection on the exposed part of the run. I wired it to the control board in the furnace. On Monday morning wired the other end to the thermostat board.

At the end of the day today I used the 1 1/2" wide aluminum to extend the flange on the supply side of the furnace so I would have more flange to hold the ducting since it's not going to be connected to a metal duct that can just be screwed to it.

 

Another curved board. 5 laminations, dried in the jig overnight. Not much spring back.

Some glue and clamps and it pretty damn tight.

 

 

Looking good.

Will you change this?

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Clamps are off.

 

Post a picture of your current job.

Previous Threads.
Part I
Part II

Shooting unite for another pool.

 

Easy, clean day for the guys. I did okay too.

 

A couple of kick out flashings should alleviate any issues. Have to get the water off the face of the lower fasica and wall.

Tom

 

If you don’t mind can you show me where they need to be located. I am used to having kick out flashing where a roof and wall meet but having a hard time picturing how it should be at this particular intersection.

 

I'll see if I can find some pictures.

Tom

 

Sample piece sanded and done with Rubio Pure for the client to sign off on. Going to be building a box beam to replace the current mantle

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Reframe cornice intersection and then pop in some new vinyl siding on the right?

 

Yup. If I had my druthers, you'd have matched the size of rakeboard on the addition to what's on the house, but it is what it is at this point.

 

As far as overhang I wish it were more but we went with what was on the plans. For the rake board, the fascia board, we will have a 1x6 and 1x2 to match the house. Right now it’s just the subfascia installed.

 

Got the "hardest" part of the bar done finally. It was only hard because I couldn't figure out how to attach it to the wall. It has to hold the flip up bartop which has a pc of hardware on it that has some heavy duty springs. Took me hours to really come up with a way to attach it to the wall and then get the subtop and the bar top on. It took me a few hours to come up with a way to do it which includes a 3x7" hole in the front of it (hidden by the hardware) so I can access the inside.

Here's the pedestal as the carpenter on the job has called it.

Again with the long miter for the foot rest

And I know it looks a bit off because of the large top rail. But that where the hardware goes and when it's on it looks balanced.

 

Impressive work. Is this custom or low volume production?

 

Going vertical on our Oak Ridge Custom. A little over 5300 ft under roof. As soon as framing is done we will dig out the driveway about 6' and build walls on the sides of the driveway.

 

 

Nicely done.

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Very nice.

Tom