[OW! My thumb]

In case anyone gives a rats ass, I took some picts of my install today. it was hotter than F'in hell, in case you were wondering.
There was a 6 panel 4'0 in this opening.:blink: Went with 2 2'0s to replace it.
First thing I do is check the jamb for plumb , level, and square. Then pull my mark from the top of my door 6 1/8 down (set ahead) for the top hinge and 67 5/8 (set ahead)for the bottom. I divide the difference for the center,..this one has 4 hinges total.
Then I measure the height and cut the bottom as needed.

 

[OW! My thumb]

Then I set my hinge on the door and mark the edge of it, and use that hinge to mark my door and jamb.
I usually use and old router bit to cut old jambs since I really dont know whats under the paint. I hit 2 nails and 2 screws.I would suggest wearing safety goggles/glasses when doing the jambs(if theyre old).Got a piece of steel in my eye ( SUCKS!) from one of the nails on this one.
And yes I know,...this jamb was a piece of ****.

 

[Leo G]

With double doors like that I have actually put in two doors that are different sizes. A 32" and a 16" would work well there. That way one door could be used as a pass through and the other could be opened when you need the full width.

 

[OW! My thumb]

Separate the hinges and install them on the door and jamb. Set the door and cut more off the bottom if needed. Lay my T-astrigal strip on the active door and mark the stationary and cut it. I usually add 1/8 pass the mark to allow for the other door to swing and not rub.
Measure down 44 1/16 and 2 3/8 over from the edge to the center of the bore, then 6" up from that for the deadbolt,bore them in place. install the knobs and deadbolts.. This guy wanted to use the old hardware,...PITF'inA The deadbolt wouldnt come apart and the knob was rusted and didnt work worth a ****..

 

[OW! My thumb]

With double doors like that I have actually put in two doors that are different sizes. A 32" and a 16" would work well there. That way one door could be used as a pass through and the other could be opened when you need the full width.

Ive done that too and sometimes it works out better. He already had the doors so,...all I needed to do was install them.

 

[Leo G]

Hope he's a skinny guy with a skinny family :laughing:

 

[OW! My thumb]

I really wanted to make a set of the door bucks/holders you guys have before I did this today. Ill do it later this week ( or week end) for sure.

 

[OW! My thumb]

Hope he's a skinny guy with a skinny family :laughing:

Tool shed type room, off the garage. Mostly Mexicans,:laughing::laughing::laughing:

But after today ,.....maybe not. They cut his dogwoods down . 3 of them. He said he told them to water the plants in the back yard.
He F'in flipped out on them. I tried not to laugh but,....I couldnt help myself.

I told him yesterday when I went to look at this that they need to be under constant adult supervision..:laughing:

 

[OW! My thumb]

Homeys dogwoods, in the dumpster!:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:
I had to get a pict of that.
I think he learned a hard lesson today.

 

[A W Smith]

why the hell cant i make paragraphs here?

see new post below

 

[A W Smith]

I had done many multi family/college rooming house entry door replacements in the eighties. Replacing raised panel 1 3/4 doors with gypsum filled flush birch slabs. Doors were labeled and expensive so could not mess them up. Always marked up the existing doors with notes and carried them down to the bench and transferred the hinge mortise with a try square and a razor knife. Careful to be sure the bevel was toward the stop on the lock set side. I never has a template. always razor knife and sharp chisels.

I used a simple inverted double "T" buck/bracket to hold the door. was made of 5/4 spruce and held the door by spring action when it flexed in the middle due to the weight of the door. I blocked one side up of the bracket to make it flex.I have not needed to hang a slab in a few years. Ill never forget how heavy them doors were and carrying them up three flights of stairs in some cases. You only wanted to make one trip. Used to have to cut both top and bottom of doors if they were more than 3/4 on an inch taller than old opening. Otherwise you were into the gypsum. If I recall you had 1 1/4 rail at the bottom and 1 inch at the top.

Today's codes do not allow you to cut or trim fire rated doors on site to existing openings. And back then the door slabs would exceed the existing frame rating anyhow.

Oh and you had your chain latch, door viewer, closer, deadbolt and lockset. And for the vestibule, a vestibule lockset of course to keep closing and locking on you every time a student would enter or leave. Usually while your carrying a damn door slab.

 

[OW! My thumb]

I never has a template. always razor knife and sharp chisels.

I F'ed up my best chisel on this today. Its been 2 years. Damnit!

 

[Danz]

slabs

I agree, it takes skill!
here's what I do. 1st scope out your project 2nd either do on door at a time or remove existing and label # etc. then build you some bucks or find you some crates or whatever works to hold the new door upright horizontally.3rd measure from the top of the old door to the top of the 1st hinge and so on then mark your mortise spots on door. 4th mortise your hinges & install new hinges then hang door. Bamm! your almost there. Once your doors are hung you can go back and plane rip or shave the doors to get a good shut. Last you go back and install locksets. I charge the same for a prehung and explain to customer why. You can get all kinds of slabs and sell your work as custom because you can add extra hardware and kickplates etc. to a slab making it custom. Have no fear!!!

 

[clampman]

I eyeball both stiles to determine what face goes where - convex side is the hinge side. I then write on the face of the hinge side stile "hinge side" with an arrow pointing to the TOP of the door. All work done on the slab while in door bucks has those words staring at me.

I use a soft lead pencil, even if it is to be stained. The lead gets sanded off - no erasers. Eraser marks will not take a stain, and will show even when clear coated.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[erikm]

You must have learned from an old timer, I suspect a lot of this new finish carpenter can't hang a door in an existing jamb for jack and GC's and other trades are getting accustomed to seeing inferior skill, for example so called finish carpenter that hang and only hang pre-hung doors.

Theres still some good old boys hangin doors into existing jambs.

Just the other day I was driving through Palm Springs looking for work amnd I cameacross a tract of homes,pulled in and found the foreman doing the set and finish.
He showed me a single story unit that had 10 doors to install.solid core 8 foot tall,4 hinge.
Hang and bore,labor only.....pays 10 bucks a door!

 

[Leo G]

He can go screw for that price

 

[woodtradesman]

Just the other day I was driving through Palm Springs looking for work amnd I cameacross a tract of homes,pulled in and found the foreman doing the set and finish.
He showed me a single story unit that had 10 doors to install.solid core 8 foot tall,4 hinge.
Hang and bore,labor only.....pays 10 bucks a door!

What a pr!ck, no wonder we can't find decent work around here.

Erik if you haven't realized already there will be no money for us finish carpenters in new construction for a long while so hang in there bud.

Theres still some good old boys hangin doors into existing jambs.

There sure are but they (I should say we) are becoming a rare breed.

 

[SK Remodeling]

Let them keep thinking its so hard to do. Thats why they pay us the big bucks!:laughing:

 

[woodtradesman]

Let them keep thinking its so hard to do. Thats why they pay us the big bucks!:laughing:

It is not hard when you know what your doing. The problem is, on the average the recipients of our work don't know what quality is supposed to look like let alone appreciate it.

By the way. Do any of you fine saw dust makers get a funny look when you tell'em you need to bevel the edges?

 

[Scribbles]

yes