How plumb/level/square are the ROs?

 

I've done the same thing, total buzz kill. I had my guys trim each rough opening, PITA but it's cheaper than a new window

 

Were starting install on Monday, I think there pretty square but wont know for sure till then

 

How did you trim them? With a sawzall

 

At least cut the sills down to prevent problems later.

 

well lets see IF the ro is plumb and square your looking at triple your time at least in trimming which no matter what will ultimately end up being a botch looking job until the window is installed and trimmed but im guessing you need to start this job asap ,it already took two weeks from order for the windows to come in you did the original takeoff on the windows and returning them if possible would take another two weeks and you would have two eat a $3000.00 + mistake happy saw zawing

 

In a situation similar to yours, I have cut out the trimmer studs, 2x ( 1 1/2") ( cripples), remove the rough sill, replace with 1 x ( 3/4") You have extra width & Height space nowso shim out as needed for proper R/O for the window unit. You will have to cut back the interior finish . Be carfull with doing this on very wide windows & large supporting headers. I replaced some windows and the previous " contractor " remove one trimmer and put no thing back, drywall holding up header under the rafter!!! , on 2 windows and another 3, he replaced the sill with 1/4 ply, client wondered why the casing didn't fit right! ( this house was sheeted w/ press board "buffalo board) I put proper trimmers under the headers & cut back the drywall & cripples to install proper sills & re sheeted w/ osb.

 

New construction windows with nailing fin or replacement style windows?

 

lube it up and slam it home.

 

Every time I try that, I get a real dirty look.

 

power planer, nail set/cats paw, extra sets of blades.

 

power planer, nail set/cats paw, extra sets of blades.

Add sawzall, chisels and skilsaw, belt sanders with real aggressive belts

Looks like Warner and I have done it before too.

 

Remove trimmers and rip some off each one with a table saw and pull the sill and rip some off of it also:blink: This is a prime example of why to use a double sill:thumbsup:

 

This is a decent approach - maybe replace the trimmers with 1x stock rather than ripping down the 2xs. You'll tell us all about it tomorrow. Good luck.

 

You could wash the windows and them dry them in high heat?

All my stuff shrinks when I do that. :jester:

 

But seriously.....If it's just a few vinyl windows, just eat it and start fresh. If it's a 50K Marvin order...do as others have said and rip the trimmers/sill plate and toss in some A35's. Plunge cut & chisel the header a little bit if you must.

I'd have no problem with lube and a mallet on the width but give yourself at least 1/2" on the height for header deflection.

 

I'd have no problem with lube and a mallet on the width

No, even on the width, even if your lube 'er up and slam 'er home.... there will be problems down the road when the window or opening expands even a tiny bit. The phone will be ringing off the hook because the windows won't open. Or gosh forbid.... won't close now that it's 95 degrees in the shade and their A/C is running 24/7 because they can't close their windows.

Take the time and enlarge the R/O's. It will be money well spent.

 

Besides voiding the warranty:blink:

 

You lube em up guys ought to come to LBI.
I know a few hack builders that will put you right to work!! :no:

 

fire the framers. from now on, always frame the RO 2" wider and 2" taller.
they will argue but you must stand your ground.

 

who gets to come back and fir in the openings?

I just frame the openings right and make sure that the paper work for the windows is in hand during framing. On a R&R check and recheck, my window sales guy comes out and does all the measuring.

 

ill send tommy a box too. no charge :thumbsup:

 

:laughing: :thumbup1:

 

Were doing full frame windows and siding afterwords so at least dont have to worry about an exterior issues. Im going to take the extra time and trim it so I have a 1/4 in on the sides and 1/2 in on the height.

 

That's why I always have my framers frame windows 1/2" over callout. It's a lot easier to add fillers than to remove material.

 

?????
No guts, no glory!!!!

 

ANother issue with installing windows with such a tight perimeter is that the caulking won't behave properly. With minimal or *gasp* no joint, combined with expansion and contraction over time, the seal will break loose and there will be leaks.

 

If they are vinyl, just take your skilsaw, trim the top and sides of the openings to what you need, install windows and your done. Add some firring to the bottom when you trim and all the reveals should be the same. Easy, Peasy.

Of course, this depends on the house. If it is a typical starter home, no problem. However, if the house is going to be trimmed with rare rainforest wood gathered by virgin fairies wearing gold lace and singing lullabies, then you may need to just eat it and get new windows or just reframe the openings.

 

If they are vinyl, just take your skilsaw, trim the top and sides of the openings to what you need, install windows and your done. .

My Skilsaw only goes 2 1/2" deep:blink:and what about the top of the trimmer, do you overcut into the header:whistling isn't the wall 3 1/2" thick:blink: I'd pull em off and run in through a table saw but that's just me:laughing: I'm likein clean on my old age

 

Like I said, it depends on the job. A chisel takes care of the ends. If it is still open and you can get to it, then yep just pull it apart and redo it. I was assuming it was vinyl windows with a nail flange. You have enough depth with the saw for the inside the flange. The difference is that you have now set the window 1/4 inch or so into the framing all the way around, this is where you need to adjust when trimming. I agree, this is the ugly way. I usually do retrofits, so I am looking at it from a remodeling point of view.

If it was new construction, I suppose I wouldn't screw it up in the first place. :jester:

Seriously though, I think a bit of quick demo and clean resizing would be what the HO would want.

 

power plane or 1/4" saw kerf the opening and chisel or sawzall away. Make room, you'll need it, or, you'll regret it

You don't need to remove trimmers or jacks :blink:

 

Just be happy that it's not masonry... ...not that I ever made that mistake in the past...

 

I had one window on a job that I'll never forget.
It was one of the basement windows (in concrete) and I had measured the width top and bottom which would have been fine except the foundation crew had apparently used a bad window buck and the lateral measurement midway down the window was 5/8" tighter.
I ended up renting a huge grinder to trim the hole.
Even with a tarp taped behind me the ventilation system sucked the dust throughout the house upstairs and down.
Lucky for me the HO's liked me cause even after I had one of my guys help dust for close to an hour we left a mess.
I'll never do that again