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Welded wire fence corners

11K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  JoanneParsons  
#1 ·
The dog has punched a hole in the fence trying to fight the neighbors dog, so it's fence time. It's a woven wire piece of junk, I've got about 300 feet of 4x2 mesh 4 foot welded wire to replace it (its a 220 foot run).

There's chain link up front, so I'm going to dead end into that, so no corner. back is going to be a corner post - will do back run later - have to take this in pieces as I can. I can't find anything I really just LIKE for ways to do the corner post. What's there is a telephone pole and it's completely rotted out. So I'm thinking - 6x6 buried 4 feet down, but everything I'm looking at shows round posts with an H bar, and a piece of wire stapled to it with a tensioner to make it diagonally stable. That seems REALLY cheesy to me. I've seen drill pipe fences where they diagonally brace a pipe and weld it. Is there an acceptable method to do this with square posts? Some sort of bracket kind of like a joist hangar maybe?

I'd really almost rather call my fence guy, but I don't think I can afford for him to do it yet. Probably just going to remove the broken line posts, and T post the field.

I just don't see high tensile wire wrapped around a post and stapled / tensioned really lasting all that long. I'd rather do something more like this - but with 6x6 and 4x4, with the "short" one being full height to attach fence, then continue with T posts:

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Oh man, I'd REALLY appreciate it!!! I thought about making brackets for the diagonal post. Fence guy came out yesterday to look at it. He doesn't think the welded wire will hold up, and doesn't want to put that in - and I don't blame him at all. It's 220 feet and its got to hold VERY determined dogs apart. Spiceweasel Von Licktenstein charges that fence like a bear and tries to plow right through it. Well - DID plow right through it last time and got the spicy spray...
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
We don't have much for rocks around here. Plenty of sand!

The H braces, I'm wondering how they actually work since it's not making a triangle to keep it from turning into a parallelogram. I guess being stuck 4 feet in the ground will help that, but something about it just seems off. Anyway - I didn't even get back around to it til this past weekend. I put in a temp fence to cut the corner in the neighbors yard so I can access the corners without his dogs eating me too much.

What I have on site right now I'm thinking will get me both corners, but if I have to go get more material I will. I got 2 6x6 8 footers, 2 8 foot 4x4's, and 2 12 foot 4x4's. What I'm thinking, is drop the 6x6 in at the end, drop an 8 foot 4x4 as the next post about 10 feet down the line also 4 feet down, concrete both in to above surface and crown. Then the 12 foot 4x4 I'll recess into the 6x6 at the top, and the 4x4 post close to the bottom to make a diagonal, and run a half inch bolt through it. That way there's some meat of that diagonal pushing on the flat faces of the posts, its not just pushing against the bolts. Sort of a rabbet joint, just on a diagonal.

My only concern there, is whether or not I'm weakening the bottom of the 4x4 post since I'd be cutting halfway through it basically - but the bottom is where all the loads will be, above that joint is really just to staple fencing to. The 6x6 won't have nearly as much meat taken out of it, and it's at the top anyway.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
As for progress ... I had a pretty good size stump to get out of the way. Growing right up on the old telephone pole post that the 6x6 is going to replace. Had to buy a new Stihl MS-251 Wood Boss chainsaw - my old crappy one wasn't even close to enough. That's what I told the wife anyway :D LIttle bit of shoveling, hydro digging with a pressure washer, and beating up a brand new saw cuttting roots below grade.Tried to stay out of the sand as much as possible, was washing around roots where I needed to cut, but that stump was a gnarly knotted mess. Brazilian pepper.

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Discussion starter · #18 ·
The sawzall wasn't quite cutting the mustard. The 14" electric chainsaw wasn't cutting the mustard either. That root ball was tied up in knots, I bent 2 blades from the tip hitting things. I might have smoked a blade, but the new toy ripped right through it. Also I got a new toy!
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
I'd butt it and use a bracket or even just a timberlok from underneath, but a big point is keep the end at least 6" off the ground to keep the cut end out if the high rot zone. 6" above surface, 6" or so below surface is where rot destroys posts first. Field treat the cuts.

The H brace you were wondering about works by having a horizontal spreader between the posts, then a X of heavy wire is strung post to post and tensioned.
Yeah, I forgot about the wire. I'd really rather not use a tension wire if I don't have to.

The plan for notching was to notch about a foot or so above grade on the 4x4, then close to the top on the 6x6 not to have that at grade. I do want it to stay dry.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
4x4 won’t get any you extra bracing than a 2x4 will.

If you wanted extra bracing strength, going to a 2x6 would do it.
I was just going for extra thickness if I was going to do the rabbet joint, which I'm probably not going with anyway, if only because I'd be drilling through it to run a bolt. Lots of weakening going on in one spot. So those will get cut in half and used for posts elsewhere. Probably going to go with the 2x6 and metal brackets.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Well, I had the pressure washer on hand. All sand. The water drains out of the hole in 5 minutes leaving behind sand castle building material. If I had clay it'd be a whole different ball game.