I take a pic of what we do at the ranch.

 

Oh man, I'd REALLY appreciate it!!! I thought about making brackets for the diagonal post. Fence guy came out yesterday to look at it. He doesn't think the welded wire will hold up, and doesn't want to put that in - and I don't blame him at all. It's 220 feet and its got to hold VERY determined dogs apart. Spiceweasel Von Licktenstein charges that fence like a bear and tries to plow right through it. Well - DID plow right through it last time and got the spicy spray...

 

We do a 6” round pt set 3‘ minimum

Then 4” or 6” round pt at right angles to the corner.

2”x4” diagonal braces to the aux posts, attached with Simpson SDS screws.

Stands up to 800 lb elk trying to get in. 👍

I’ll get some pics tonight.

 

Yeah that sounds pretty stout. I'm kind of surprised by the 2x4 attached with screws, but it's hard to argue with holding up to a giant elk!

 

We’ve nailed them before, but it’s pt outside, and I’ve found that they tend to work loose over time.

Switched to SDS screws a couple years ago, and it’s been good.

 

You could cut an angled lap joint, put some outdoor glue in the joint, and then lag right through the lap.

It will take a bit of figuring to lay out the joint but it would look classy and be strong.

 

That's not a bad idea at all. Half lap the 4x at an angle into the 6x6, screw through the lap - that'd look good, and be skookum as frig.

 

Got done late yesterday.

I’ll get pics today. 👍

 

No worries - gotta make that money!

 

We do rock cribs and H-braces for field fence(woven wire) and barbed

 

Aw crap, I forgot about this.

Ill be back.

 

We don't have much for rocks around here. Plenty of sand!

The H braces, I'm wondering how they actually work since it's not making a triangle to keep it from turning into a parallelogram. I guess being stuck 4 feet in the ground will help that, but something about it just seems off. Anyway - I didn't even get back around to it til this past weekend. I put in a temp fence to cut the corner in the neighbors yard so I can access the corners without his dogs eating me too much.

What I have on site right now I'm thinking will get me both corners, but if I have to go get more material I will. I got 2 6x6 8 footers, 2 8 foot 4x4's, and 2 12 foot 4x4's. What I'm thinking, is drop the 6x6 in at the end, drop an 8 foot 4x4 as the next post about 10 feet down the line also 4 feet down, concrete both in to above surface and crown. Then the 12 foot 4x4 I'll recess into the 6x6 at the top, and the 4x4 post close to the bottom to make a diagonal, and run a half inch bolt through it. That way there's some meat of that diagonal pushing on the flat faces of the posts, its not just pushing against the bolts. Sort of a rabbet joint, just on a diagonal.

My only concern there, is whether or not I'm weakening the bottom of the 4x4 post since I'd be cutting halfway through it basically - but the bottom is where all the loads will be, above that joint is really just to staple fencing to. The 6x6 won't have nearly as much meat taken out of it, and it's at the top anyway.

 

As for progress ... I had a pretty good size stump to get out of the way. Growing right up on the old telephone pole post that the 6x6 is going to replace. Had to buy a new Stihl MS-251 Wood Boss chainsaw - my old crappy one wasn't even close to enough. That's what I told the wife anyway LIttle bit of shoveling, hydro digging with a pressure washer, and beating up a brand new saw cuttting roots below grade.Tried to stay out of the sand as much as possible, was washing around roots where I needed to cut, but that stump was a gnarly knotted mess. Brazilian pepper.

 

As for progress ... I had a pretty good size stump to get out of the way

Use an air spade


Mike

 

You're weakening the 4X4 and making rot easy.

 

The 4x4 being weak above the cut I'm not super concerned about, but making rot easy doesn't sit well with me. What else can I do - a metal bracket instead?

 

Cutting roots in dirt, I use a sawzall with 12" pruning blade

 

The sawzall wasn't quite cutting the mustard. The 14" electric chainsaw wasn't cutting the mustard either. That root ball was tied up in knots, I bent 2 blades from the tip hitting things. I might have smoked a blade, but the new toy ripped right through it. Also I got a new toy!

 

I'd butt it and use a bracket or even just a timberlok from underneath, but a big point is keep the end at least 6" off the ground to keep the cut end out if the high rot zone. 6" above surface, 6" or so below surface is where rot destroys posts first. Field treat the cuts.

The H brace you were wondering about works by having a horizontal spreader between the posts, then a X of heavy wire is strung post to post and tensioned.

 

Yeah, I forgot about the wire. I'd really rather not use a tension wire if I don't have to.

The plan for notching was to notch about a foot or so above grade on the 4x4, then close to the top on the 6x6 not to have that at grade. I do want it to stay dry.

 

 

That's pretty close to what I was thinking. Maybe I should go with 2x4 instead of 4x4 for the diagonal brace. That looks plenty stout enough.

 

4x4 won’t get any you extra bracing than a 2x4 will.

If you wanted extra bracing strength, going to a 2x6 would do it.

 

I was just going for extra thickness if I was going to do the rabbet joint, which I'm probably not going with anyway, if only because I'd be drilling through it to run a bolt. Lots of weakening going on in one spot. So those will get cut in half and used for posts elsewhere. Probably going to go with the 2x6 and metal brackets.

 

The stud/ pipe/ channel iron spreaders should have the Spanish Windlas wire(s) around them to hold them in place even if the nail/staples/ screws fail.
in line with center of the posts, so they won't rotate out of tension

The X-brace lower end should be as close to grade as possible.

Heavy duty fences would have two brace panels each way, at a corner with a long run, If possible have the gate at least Two bays away from a corner post.
Every so often a Braced panel to keep the entire fence from failing at once.
And a brace at the "handshake" half way point with neighbors' fences

 

Well, I had the pressure washer on hand. All sand. The water drains out of the hole in 5 minutes leaving behind sand castle building material. If I had clay it'd be a whole different ball game.

 

We’ve never had issues with corners pulling and I’ve built hundreds of miles with h braces and corner braces like this, center keeps everything spread and the smooth wire keeps everything pulled in, brace at the gate hasn’t budged and the fence line goes up and over the ridge to the rock jack.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Apparently, you are counting on the fact that you will be able to deal with such a problem on your own. Do you have the proper qualifications for this? I can just say that I was definitely able to do such a thing, because I studied welding courses, with the help of which I was able to become a real professional in my field. Online welding programs are easy, yet not free. Therefore, if you are so interested in this topic, you can do training. It's great if your hobby can become a source of your money, isn't it? Think about it.