This is the deck design in question, and also the installation instructions regarding picture framing.

 

This is how I feel it should go. But I wI'll only be able to do 2x6 blocking mid-span of my joists as they are 2x10, I need my troughs to go over top of them.
Am I on the right track?

 

You can use "x" bracing if you have to have blocking. So for the sides and the picture frames I just double up the joists on each side of the railing posts. Then you can flat block the 3.5" solid in between which you can tape the top and divert the water into the bay next to it.

 

I am running the joists that way because it will save me from putting posts close to the house, and it saves me two helical piers.

I like the idea of solid picture frame. I'm using top mounted railings. Can I solid pack 8"? Maybe rip 2x10s and screw them on the flat with grk rss?

 

Like these. Or out of wood.

 

Why not run the joists the short direction?

 

Hmm. Then the water in the picture frame boards wouldn't have anywhere to drain to and would just sit.

 

Composite?

 

You should only be solid packing with wood, 3.5". Here's how I block picture frame and posts. But instead of the ladder blocks, solid pack it. Unless your going with a double pic frame.

 

It's no different than a flush beam or a doubler. You ***** tape that. If it's composite it's a non issue.

 

Yeah composite. I guess I will modify to a single picture frame. That will save a ton of money on downspouts.
Thanks.

 

I did one with a really detailed decking layout. Running 2x4s over the top was actually fast and easy. It did mean that I had to do a build up fascia because of the height.

I have also stepped down a size for solid blocking in order to fit it under the troughs.

 

I think he is referring to the trex downspouts... we called them joist udders. They are the funnels at the end of the troughs.

About $16 a piece I think.

 

I follow you guys with solid blocking the first 6 1/2" (not including fascia) to deal with the picture frame, and have that area drain into the adjacent bay. What about at the end of the joist bay that has a post in it. If I solid block that, it puts the "udder" back from the edge of the deck and out of line with the other bay ends.

I have a large deck coming up with rain escape and am planning on educating myself over the next few months.

if I'm covering the underside of the deck with t&g cedar, do you just drill holes for the udders to hang threw, and hang/mount a gutter directly under those holes? Mount it to the inside of the fascia? if you hung it lower than the rim? Anyone have some pictures.

Lastly any advise for a deck that has one long side with all the joists ending at an acute angle to the rim.

 

You bring the tape up the sides of the post. Then it gets countered by a sleeve.

 

If you are using a dropped beam it is easiest to mount your eavestrough to it.

Put it on the side of the beam 'outside' of the deck.

 

Forget the Trex system, get yourself some thicker rolled rubber and butyl tape, you'll save close to 75% on materials for a comparable system....with only a touch more labor.

 

And tell the customer that wants a proven system "don't worry, I'll hack it together. Warranty? You don't need that."

 

Do it with epdm and warranty it yourself. It's not hard but it's way less money.

 

If it was my own deck you think I would drop 5 grand on a water collection system? Nope.

But this customer requested a system. This customer requested I hire a designer instead of doing the drawings myself. This customer wants to pay and I am not going to argue.

 

Welcome to my world.

 

They will buy what I offer. I actually have a waterproofing company come out break out the stucco flash the walls and put down paper, diamond mesh, cement and a seven layer dex-o-tex system. However. It rarely rains and never snows here so that market is very tiny. The last one I did was about 5 years ago. I've only worked one one deck with the rain escapes system. I'm not fond of the installation headaches. However, put down correctly it's highly effective.

http://dex-o-tex.com

 

Thanks Cali.
TG Deck, agreed, they are doing a heck of a job to charge their numbers. I've got a deck we're doing right now that ran about $4,500 for the Trex system materials. EPDM and tape is around $1,500 or so. The client chose the latter for cost savings.

 

I am doing a 3 part deck that will be about 1,000 sq. ft. I planned to use the rubber membrane but the city inspectors wouldn't let me use it. The inspector said water may build up in the winter from debris etc. - freeze and fall on someone's head. He said I would have to use an engineered system. After a bit of debate Trex Rain Escape was approved. Yikes! $6-7 per sq. ft. for materials only. Customer wasn't too happy.
Other nearby cities let us use the membrane. Some areas want to ensure a big name is liable in case of an issue.
Hard to believe over $6K is sitting here.

 

Ouch. When I used the system it was owned by GAF as part of the duralife line, I bought direct from them and it was way cheaper. Found out how much more trex charged and went to the membrane after that.

 

People want that name brand. They research this stuff online and come to me with what they want, makes my job easy.
Also, when they can afford the price of Trex decking, railing, lights, and rain escape, they can afford to pay me well, so I'm not complaining.

 

Better if you can sell for the price of trex and not have to pay the trex price for your materials.

People know what they want, they don't give two craps how you get there, as long as it's right and looks good. I'm not saying that I tell them "you're getting trex rain escape" and then give them EPDM. I tell them they are getting a water diversion system. That's what they want.

 

I am in Canada so with currency fluctations we pay substantially more for anything from the USA. Once oil prices go up and we put in the pipe line down to Texas from Alberta all will be well.:laughing:
Customers that have the money still don't like to hear about price increases after you sold the deck.
It does make it easier if the customer knows what they want after they did some research. Some don't know what they don't know. Most of my customers I would say may have heard of Trex, Fiberon or Azek but not well versed. They just want low maintenance. Sometimes all the choices of decking and railing confuses them. That is where I come in for a little education.

 

I don't think I got the job anyway.

 

Bummer

 

I've never had a customer demand rain escapes. I have however had them demand the decking all the time.

 

Your right

To be honest, my customer requested Trex decking railing and lighting by name. I quoted them, one of those I don't want the job I'll way over price it kind of quotes. Simply because it was an hour drive to the job. Well they went for the bid and asked to add more to it, and make part of one of the decks waterproof. The only water proof decks I've done have been tiled and I've subed all that out. So I chose rain escape, half because I know my rep will hold my hand through the whole process, they have all of the how2s, and half because (again) I thought the price would be so high he wouldn't add the waterproofing, Well he went for it and here is am.

Once I do this job I'd probably be down to do EPDM.

 

Sounds like you went down the right path with good judgement calls along the way.
Good post, thanks.