I need a bigger picture

 

I get out the ladder

 

Not my field, but I would think boxing it in and sealing it off would work. Not sure why it wasn't done in the first place.

 

They extended the roof at one point and this was much easier than tearing off the first part and building a whole new roof over the patio.

 

 

Thank you for your input Mr AI. Nothing like stating the obvious.

 

I stuck my camera as far back under the overhang as I could and it doesn't look like there is a good seal at all where the roofing meets the framing, especially on the other side of the hip where it abuts a cedar beam. Unfortunately, it's a 4' overhang and I can't reach back under there far enough to clean and then caulk the gap.
The pitch is 1:12 so the wind must be blowing the rain up the valleys and over the edge.
I've seen those prefabbed pieces of foam that is used to block the underside gaps of corrugated plastic roofing panels. Is there something similar, but weatherproof that I could install on top of this roofing as a dam? I do have enough room to install something 2 or 3' back which I think would be far enough.

 

I stuck my camera as far back under the overhang as I could and it doesn't look like there is a good seal at all where the roofing meets the framing, especially on the other side of the hip where it abuts a cedar beam. Unfortunately, it's a 4' overhang and I can't reach back under there far enough to clean and then caulk the gap.
The pitch is 1:12 so the wind must be blowing the rain up the valleys and over the edge.
I've seen those prefabbed pieces of foam that is used to block the underside gaps of corrugated plastic roofing panels. Is there something similar, but weatherproof that I could install on top of this roofing as a dam? I do have enough room to install something 2 or 3' back which I think would be far enough.
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Ill preface this by stating my lack of experience first off, maybe some of the other guys can help explain this. The strips you're talking about are what I know as closure strips. They make outside closure strips which are meant to sit on top of the metal roofing to seal for example the underside of a ridge cap. In my understanding it's quite possible that would work here in addition to some blocking. Here's what I'm talking about:

You would just have to find one that matches your roofing profile. It seems that your scenario would be similar to what these are made for.

 

Box it off, z bar between the ribs, and install a proper apron flashing.

 

I don't understand what you're saying. And remember, I can't reach back in there very far to do a lot of work.

 

Cover the whole front of that ugly **** with sheet metal. That would keep the wind-driven rain out.

Then they would have the added benefit of painting some advertising on it.

Andy.

 

Cover the whole front of that ugly **** with sheet metal. That would keep the wind-driven rain out.

Then they would have the added benefit of painting some advertising on it.

Andy.

None of this can be seen from the ground so it doesn't have to look like it was original construction. I am going to block off as much as I can, but that still leaves the valleys in the roof panels. There is very little pitch and when we have high winds the rain could easily be blown up the alleys.

 

I see no standing seam roofing.

 

See the additional pictures I put up in post #7 above

 

40- 50 mph wind equal plenty of pressure difference to lift water 4-5 " till wind and rain stop.....

See Bernuli's Law... sp?

Can't see fixing it with out making room for the repairer's body..

Probably cheaper to sell this turd to a greater Fool and lease a building built to code and commonsense.
IMHO

 

This is a multi-million dollar building. All the pictures are where they extended the roof at one point and this was much easier than tearing off the first part and building a whole new roof over the patio.

None of this can be seen from the ground so it doesn't have to look like it was original construction. I am going to block off as much as I can, but that still leaves the valleys in the roof panels. There is very little pitch and when we have high winds the rain could easily be blown up the alleys.

I just need to figure out a way to block the valleys

 

Technically it is not standing-seam, it is corrugated metal.

So it is leaking where the corrugated metal laps over the next sheet then?

Andy.

 

You need to box off the overhang. You don't have to get more than your hands in there.

If you don't know what z bar is either ask the roofing supply, ask Google, or don't do the repair

 

If you don't know what z bar is either ask the roofing supply, ask Google, or don't do the repair

OP thinks the roof is standing seam, pretty sure Z bar will be a mystery.
I'd suggest subbing out the work to a qualified metal roofer.

 

No building with a leaky roof is multi million dollar building.

The local building inspector
Or any note holder could shut this pig down...

How can you insure a wet space??????

How can restaurant pass monthly inspection??

 

No building with a leaky roof is multi million dollar building.

That's not true, not saying all are but I've roofed one so there's that

 

And don't use silicone

 

I think FixItFarmer found the perfect solution, but what would you instead of silicone to glue it down / seal it?

 

I'll draw a picture later

Technically it is not standing-seam, it is corrugated metal.

So it is leaking where the corrugated metal laps over the next sheet then?

Andy.

No, it's leaking where the uphill end abuts a cedar beam. But that is 4' back under an overhanging roof, so the wind must be blowing the rain up the valleys in the roofing.

 

If you get foam closures they have an adhesive already on them. z bar and an apron is the way to go in which case you use butyl tape under the zbar.

The foam closures will do you no good if you don't box it off first

 

I really appreciate all your help on this. Almost everyone else seems to completely misunderstand what's going on here.

You said not to use vinyl to close of the opening, not LP Smart. What sort of vinyl are you talking about? The tallest part of the gap is about 18" which tapers down to about 12". I have attachment points at the very top and again about 6" below that.
What I know as z bar is the flashing installed between sheets of T111. And to me, an apron is the piece of interior trim on the underside of a window. I'll search those terms in regard to roofing.
Thanks again

 

Fly Andy out and add 20%. Grab a beer at the bar while he knocks this out in a couple hours.

 

This is NOT a job for a roofer or a contractor at all. You will maintain liability forever. This is a job for a licensed architectural engineer, possibly a specialist in roof and water intrusion mitigation.

Actually, whoever did the enclosure to "air conditioned space" should have a WHOLE BUNCH OF LIABILITY. If there were permits involved then there is a JHUGE issue with that department as they should never have allowed the enclosure with that roof system and method.

IT sounds to me like this entire roof overhang needs to be treated as a transition and the roof redesigned as such. This means major modifications and or removal and replacement most likely. Picture a giant flashing from under the upper roofing to over the lower roofing with a 6 to 10 pitch in between the two roofs.

 

I guess I haven't explained myself well or most people are making this way overly complicated. This is at a P.F. Changs restaurant. The part I'm working on started off as an open air patio, about 3/4ths of which was covered. It had (and still has) infrared heaters hanging from the ceiling like lots of restaurant patios. It can get very windy in Kansas so blocking the wind and the leaves from blowing in gave them more weeks of usage, so they walled off the patio and installed slider windows and shades and built another section of roof to cover the rest. This restaurant is in the highest end office, restaurant and hotel development in town. There's no way this wasn't signed off on by the owner of the development, permitted and inspected.

Because this is still "outdoor dining" they are not required to do anything to mitigate rain, or bugs or leaves or whatever from getting in. However, the windows are west facing so it can get very hot inside. They wanted to install mini-splits so I did block off the gap between the roof sections on the inside already. We've had a lot of severe thunderstorms in the last couple of months, but then there massive storm with extremely high winds which were coming from the NW that caused water to pour into the room. Northwest winds are what we get with blizzards. Yesterday we had a storm with even higher winds - there are trees and limbs down all over town, but the wind was from the south which is normal direction for thunderstorms and not a drop of water got in.

All they want me to do is prevent water getting in if there's another oddball storm with winds out of the northwest and people are seated out there when it happens.

 

One of many reasons I like having a local manufacture and a very good salesman. I do a lot of custom trim on my jobs so have to set down with him a design the stuff so it works and looks the way I want it. They make it wrong gets remade right away.

 

I only let this particular customer order the stuff because he has referred me a lot of work over the years. He paid a healthy down time bill for material related delays.


That was the last time I'll ever let a client order materials though

 

I posted a couple of pics but I guess I should have posted all of these at the beginning. From left to right: Upper arrow was the original roof when the patio wasn't walled off and only partially covered. The bottom arrow is where the new portion of the roof was constructed. The original overhangs the new by 4 to 5'
The next pic is where the new roof roof abuts the framing for the old roof. That gap is where the rain blew in last time. We've had many powerful storms with no leaks at all, but one had a 60+ mph wind from due west. Given that the pitch is only 1 or 2:12, it was flat enough that the wind blew the rain up the valleys and into that gap.
The next picture is where I blocked off the gap between old and new one the inside to keep the wind and leaves out - also to keep more heat from the infrared heaters in. And the last picture is to prove to the doubters that this isn't some tar paper shack.

 

This is a very good metal roof sealant IMO

 

Did you get this figured out?

 

is it safe to assume that you're in one of those municipalities where a permit isn't needed and engineer/architect never called?

 

That's an odd question. What does that have to do with best means and methods?