@Seven-Delta-FortyOne
@TxElectrician
@480sparky

 

No cans needed at all

 

Correct. I just don’t like the idea of have to make marks on drywall ceiling to mark locations to use a hole saw, I like the idea of having that mounting bracket in the ceiling during rough-in and then drywall crew zips out the hole and it’s ready for me to install lights.

Maybe I’m overthinking it and before my painter comes in to spray the ceilings I can mark cut holes?

 

I've installed dozens of these over the last few years. No problems, no callbacks. They mount on a standard 4" round ceiling box.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-2-Pack-7-4-in-White-Modern-Contemporary-LED-Flush-Mount-Light-ENERGY-STAR/999918952

 

I’m using LED disk lights on two other houses, and like you said, using 4” plastic on boxes. These customers didn’t like the way they looked so they want to use the canless recessed lights.

 

I would mark and cut before the painters do the spraying. Tuck some cardboard behind them if you want.

 

All my customers want the flat lights
Throw the wires up, map out where they go, drywall, mark centers with a screw, paint away, cut the hole and mount

 

All my customers want the flat lights
Throw the wires up, map out where they go, drywall, mark centers with a screw, paint away, cut the hole and mount

I like that marking centers with drywall screw idea.

 

Any of the rough in rings should work as long as you use the right size (6" or 4").

I've never used them, prefer cans with LED inserts.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

Talking about these.

They are great.

Andy.

 

Basically, except much thinner.

 

The lights they are buying...

It's easier to wire and mount the j-boxes before drywall.
If the customers are supplying the lights, give them a firm date you'll need them in hand.

You can do it after drywall, just leave the wire a little long. Most jurisdiction prefer the boxes not be loose in the cavities, but that has been known to happen. I've never seen an inspector pull a trimmed out light to check a box.

 

I have the cables roughed in and have slack at each location. I think I would prefer the boxes loose so they are readily accessible if you need access later versus trying to screw the box in the perfect location so you have good access through the hole but also it’s not in the way when mounting the light.

Taking in all the info you guys throw my way on this.

 

6" hole and a 1 1/2" joist I can live with

 

Yeah me too. Worst case you have 2-1/4” to slide the junction box by.

 

My electrician cautioned me to make sure the power is off both while wiring these things AND plugging in the finished part. Supposedly they are finicky at this point, and can fail. Anybody else experienced this?

 

we have never had a problem with plugging them in when power is on. Dimmers on the other hand, always have power off.

 

Yep. Just common sense when dealing with anything electronic. The components can be relatively easily damaged by current/voltage spikes.

Coincidentally, had a call just this evening from a long-time client. POCO replaced her electric meter today while she was at work, and now her garage door opener is completely dead. Her granddaughter's boyfriend did some rudimentary troubleshooting with no luck. Quite probably caused by arcing when they pulled/replaced the meter.

 

Basically a remodel can?

I use those a lot. Any time you have an inaccessible ceiling, like between floors, a standard can wont have an accessible junction box.

I leave a good length of romex in the ceiling, and rock right over it. Staple it up high enough not to nick it with the holesaw later.

I do my layout in the floor, so after drywall, I just come in and set up the laser and cut all the openings.

The drywall screw works as well.



Sorry, some days I‘m so busy I only get on CT after work. 😳🤣

 

Thanks dudes, lot of good ideas. Much appreciated.

I used to think a standard can junction box couldn’t be accessed either until I figured out I could remove the trim, unscrew the housing, drop it and boom, there’s my j-box 😃🤷🏻‍♂️

Now I’m a genius lol

 

We just mark them after the lid is painted.

 

Those are the only types I install anymore after paint I use a combination of lasers and mark a piece of tape where the center mark is. Tape allows me to make adjustments if needed.

 

All we use now is the wafer leds. If it’s a dark room I’ll have them cut in and installed before paint so we can see. Usual tell them to leave them hanging till it’s painted.
Ones in the kitchen are almost always installed after cabinets. Again if it hasn’t gotten paint yet leave them hanging down. If it has been painted keep your dirty hands off the paint.

 

All we use now is the wafer leds. If it’s a dark room I’ll have them cut in and installed before paint so we can see. Usual tell them to leave them hanging till it’s painted.
Ones in the kitchen are almost always installed after cabinets. Again if it hasn’t gotten paint yet leave them hanging down. If it has been painted keep your dirty hands off the paint.

wear cheap pair of thing gloves, not hard anyway junction box is hanging down, two small wings to flip in, done

 

I once had an electrician who used a wide red sharpie, took a long time to get him to stop

 

What's funny is it seems that I'll see too often the paper contractor type guys do sharpie on the wall while they have blue tape in the other hand.

 

These are the BEST thing since peanut butter. As long as there are a couple inches for the small box attached, all you need is 1/2 inch (drywall thickness) and they install even across joists and truss bases.
Do your layout and rough in leaving a couple feet of wire in place b(make a drawing of each room location. Let them do ALL the sheetrock and come in with your laser and tape and mark the actual locations.
Use your hole saw and reach in and pull the wire down. Install and move on. Too easy.

I have probably installed 500 of these in remodels. Just be sure and move the dip switch to the same location on all of them. 99% of customers prefer the 5000-6000K color. With dimmers the colors in the room remain exactly as the designer intended.

 

100% of mine love the 2700k cant stand 5000, weird

 

I know this is strange, but thinking about it...I wonder if it has to do with the fact that Florida is extremely humid and the light there in general is not as "white" as more temperate climes? Am in CO now and the light is much different here than at home.
In my house and most others, I placed them on 5000K and added dimmers. My wife loves that the colors in the house stay true and the light it not overpowering. Also, I was usually the one designing the lighting layout. I make sure that there are not too many lights, but that there are enough to give good lighting.
One trick I learned it to try and keep odd numbers of lights, and where that can not be done to place them in a manner that one can only see odd numbers of lights from any perspective in the area. I noticed that except for fan lighting almost all chandeliers have odd numbers of lights. Also, in museums and other places with exhibits they are generally placed in odd numbers of paintings etc. Something about it is more appealing.

 

There is an odd number rule in design work, I don’t understand it but the designers I have worked with use it most of the time

 

That’s interesting about the odd number thing. I’ll have to do a little research into that.