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I would probably sell insurance if my weather was like that.
Believe me, mate. I'd love to work inside. It isn't even THAT cold here for long. JT Wood sees the cold/snow for much longer than we do here on the east coast.
 
Dirtywhiteboy said:
Yup:thumbsup: Shorts and T-shirt all day today:whistling
I always wear shorts and t-shirt. And those occasional times that I can't it really sucks. But at the very most its a light pair of sweats and t-shirts.
 
Let me tell you it got down to 32F Here and that's unheard of. Phuck I not only wore a turtle neck I had gloves, two pair of socks, and a homeboy beanie hat. It finally got back to mid 70's F.
32F..... I'd have jeans and a tshirt on. Man! That's spring time weather!
 
Let me tell you it got down to 32F Here and that's unheard of. Phuck I not only wore a turtle neck I had gloves, two pair of socks, and a homeboy beanie hat. It finally got back to mid 70's F.
Yesterday it was 7f when we started and got up to a balmy 16 by the time we got off the roof. Today it got to 45.:clap:
 
This is the dumbest post i have seen ever on ct.

Well then your not on here enough.... I get way more stupid then that, but I'm not sure your following what I'm saying.

If you are referring to racking them, I was pointing out to Nick a worst case scenario if you have a slab thats drops way off.

If you were referring to squaring on the ground, if you have never done this you are missing the boat.
 
Well then your not on here enough.... I've get way more stupid then that, but I'm not sure your following what I'm saying.

If you are referring to racking them, I was pointing out to Nick a worst case scenario if you have a slab thats drops way off.

If you were referring to squaring on the ground, if you have never done this you are missing the boat.

The squaring, sheething and standing on a slab is all fine and dandy, if you slab/foundation is level/no steps. We get into these places that are on hills, and there are steps every 10-12 feet. Sometimes less. You can be on grade on one side, and having to build a 10 foot wall on the other.

That... and, I have rarely seen a foundation that wasn't out 1/4 (or more). At that point, no amount of sill gasket , caulking or shimming seems good. Best for us to knock the sill plates down tight to the foundation, shoot corner grades, draw out a string, and measure/mark each stud and stick frame the wall. Plumb/sheath after.

Once we get onto the nice, solid, square and level deck, however, square and sheet on the deck 95% of the time.
 
Discussion starter · #533 ·
Brutus reminded me of another reason to sheath after standing. Multiple floor levels. The pic I posted with all the shed dormers on the street elevation had 7 floor levels including the rooftop deck, with the sheathing dropping below the joists onto skirt walls that were framed after the fact in some areas. Much better and easier to strike a line around the perimeter and go straight up, rather than piece and patch at every step up and new floor level. Here's the waterfront elevation of the same house.
 

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I agree, If you're set up for it.


I always sheath the tall walls after they are stood as well.
 

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I've seen some guys build their tall walls like that, and sheet it like a roof... like leaning like that, worked out i guess.
Tall walls just seem weird, but cool. Yea lapping the sheathing would be a good idea. Shouldn't the studs go from sill plate to top plate?
 
JT, is the sheething over hung on the other walls as a "kicker" and to attach to the tall wall? Or is the pic jut an optical illusion?

Very cool idea id it is hung over.
Yeah, the top 2 rows are going to be overlapping.

The top row extends from the tall wall to the shorter wall. And the second row down (from the shorter wall ) overlaps on to the tall wall.
 
FramingPro said:
I've seen some guys build their tall walls like that, and sheet it like a roof... like leaning like that, worked out i guess.
Tall walls just seem weird, but cool. Yea lapping the sheathing would be a good idea. Shouldn't the studs go from sill plate to top plate?
Yes but in his case he probably has a 9' first and a deep floor joist and 8' second, simply put readily available 18' lumber is too short to make it into the hole.
 
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