That's a pretty tall fence. I usually try to keep 1/3 of the post in the ground, but you may be able to get away with 1/4 if it's well protected from wind. Run a string-line to get the straight run. I run one first down the middle to mark location, then after the holes are dug, I offset so the line just touches the inside or outside of the posts. Dig holes, drop a few inches of gravel in the bottom, tamp, drop post, brace, and fill with concrete. I guess 4-5 80# bags. I haven't done a fence in 10 years, so I could be a bit off. BTW, love Port Orchard!

 

I also haven't built fences in some time, but I used to do a lot of them.

Do it just as rustbucket says except it is usually a bag of concrete per hole. For a 4x4 post, a 9" diam x 24" deep should be suffiecient. If the concrete is dry enough, you don't usually have to brace the posts.

 

Ditto everything redwood says:thumbsup:
unless your hanging a heavy wooden gate then u might set that with a 6x6 & go 3' deep.

For a 6' fence use 3 horizontal rails 2 never seems to be sturdy enough.

 

i just built a fence,
use 6x6s you wont regret it.

 

Depending on how big I rent / hire a skid steer to dig


I go min 42" down. 10" holes minimum

Basically I need 10' posts to do a 6' fence

Definitely get a truck to deliver premix

To set posts I do the corners and run a string about 6 " off the ground and line it up


Usually looks like laser straight that way


I use screws from the quick drive not nails. And remember the acq fasteners if applicable

 

At the risk of resurrecting an old argument, I'd skip the concrete and pack the holes with gravel. Level the posts, add a few inches of gravel and tamp well, repeat until full. Won't hold any water near the posts (think about rot) and sets them solid.

Good Luck
Dave

 

OK, I could be stepping in it here but why would you even use wood post? If you don't like the look of metal posts then box around them. Sure does make the next fence go up a lot faster if they are set right the first time.

 

How to do your fence post I think depends on your type of soil. In Canada where the soil must be clay like you need 42" holes, here with all the rock we have 24" is a good hole & they get concreted in. If it were me I'd ask some local fence companies your questions.

 

A fence company I know uses a Little Beaver auger. Some places rent these. They swear this is the best tool for digging fence post holes.

 

hmm... yes.. a little beaver..:detective:

 

i dug 48" :whistling

 

Wait a second did someone say 'Beaver'?

 

Like redwood said if your not in freeze country 24 to 30" holes will do also you might think about putting a little gravel on the bottom of the hole to help keep the post from wicking water

 

Thanks guys for all the help. I really appreciate it.

One quick question, for 1x6 cedar, install with no gaps? Or slight gaps?


Thanks!

 

If it's not dry, you will butt them tight, unless you want gaps. My experience was mostly with redwood, which usually shrank about a 1/4".

 

Cedar is going to dry out and shrink a good bit.

 

For a six foot fence I buy 8' treated 4x4's then dig my holes 20" deep by 12" diameter. If you dig your holes 24" then your fence will be shy of 6' with 8' posts, because you always have to trim a little bit off the top. Then you may have people complaining they can see over the fence. If the posts are for a gate, then I dig 36" deep holes, gates need extra support.

Also, if the topography of the land is anything but flat, then take the time to layout your height correctly. You want to avoid making the fence go straight up a hill then stopping and turning. Make the transitions between the hills a gradual turn, you'll be surprised how much better it looks in the end. I like to set my posts then layout how I want the height with a string, stand back and look at it then make adjustments.

 

In my experience, wood posts will last longer if you don't set them in concrete.

I'm replacing a wood fence now at my house that was put in about 15 years ago, not by me. Cedar posts set in concrete, all of them rotted.

You don't need concrete to get posts solid.

 

Yeah, cedar post set right into concrete is not a good idea, but the pressure treated posts will last longer. PT with a little gravel in the bottom of the hole set in concrete I bet will last you 30 years.

 

Where do you live?

 

I'm not sure why concrete is considered necessary nowadays. I grew up on a farm and probably set hundreds of fence posts solid without concrete.

In any case, here is a photo of my solution to rotten posts. It's my own fence and only about 30' long, so budget isn't a big issue.

The steel was coated with cold galvanizing compound, then painted before setting in the concrete. Bolts run between the steel within the concrete. The new cedar post will replace the spacers, and be held up off the concrete.

As soon as the posts are set, I'll replace the rest of the fence.

 

Looks like a good solution. Wire or 3 board fences never need concrete, and I've set a bunch of the skip board fences with no concrete in 3' holes. I never used 6X6 - if I think I need added resistance to movement perpendicular to the fence face I"ll use 4X6.

 

Finished building it over the weekend.

 

Grew up on the farm too... I never set a post in concrete growing up.

I use narrow crown staples on the 1x6, they hold like crazy. :thumbsup:

Shoot, i'm also in Port Orchard... how bout I just come over and build it.

 

Too late!! :clap:

 

Ways I have seen posts set:

2' deep -4' deep.

Bottom material:Nothing in the bottom of hole first; gravel bottom; crushed rock bottom

Fill: Gravel fill; Sand fill; Concrete fill

Cap: No cap; concrete or mortar cap (begins on grade, and looks like a mushroom top - supposed to shed water away from the post / gravel)

Easiest way to deal with getting concrete in holes is to use something like Quikrete4000, and follow their directions for setting posts - no mixing, just pour water, dump in concrete, pour more water, etc. Costs more per bag, but goes really fast.

One unique feature of using sand to fill the hole is if it is moist, you can usually wiggle the pole after it has been set, and pull it out of the hole, and reset it in the same hole. Convenient of you have to replace a pole, but not generally something I'd use for a 6' almost solid fence without going down 4' in many soils. By then, you may not be able to wiggle it back out and replace it without having to re-dig the hole. Nice way to go for shorter fences and more open fence designs.

Most of the load on a fence (ignoring gates) will be wind load. Solid fence has the highest. Even the little 1/4 - 3/8 " gaps in a board fence helps a lot to keep the wind load down. Wider gaps help even more. Depending on the soil and wind, most places I could go 3' down, put gravel or crushed rock in the bottom, set my post, then back fill with sand and tamp and water it in to make sure it is tight. Top it off with a concrete cap. Besides shedding water away from the sand you just put in, the concrete cap will provide a little support against the pole being pushed over. If it gets too much load, the cap breaks, the pole leans over some in the sand, and the wind load is decreased. Straightening it back up and replacing the cap is easy.

What you need to do really depends on your soil and winds.