[Timuhler]

Hey guys,

We are going to build a wood fence along a house we built last fall. I've only done a little bit of fence work, my specialties are framing and siding.

So my question is mostly to do with setting the fence posts. We were going to rent an auger for the day and dig the holes.

How do you guys keep the fence line nice and straight?
How much concrete do you use for each post?
How far down do you dig?

I think the fence will be 6' high total.

Thanks!

 

[Rustbucket]

That's a pretty tall fence. I usually try to keep 1/3 of the post in the ground, but you may be able to get away with 1/4 if it's well protected from wind. Run a string-line to get the straight run. I run one first down the middle to mark location, then after the holes are dug, I offset so the line just touches the inside or outside of the posts. Dig holes, drop a few inches of gravel in the bottom, tamp, drop post, brace, and fill with concrete. I guess 4-5 80# bags. I haven't done a fence in 10 years, so I could be a bit off. BTW, love Port Orchard!

 

[redwood]

I also haven't built fences in some time, but I used to do a lot of them.

Do it just as rustbucket says except it is usually a bag of concrete per hole. For a 4x4 post, a 9" diam x 24" deep should be suffiecient. If the concrete is dry enough, you don't usually have to brace the posts.

 

[FramingPro]

i just built a fence,
use 6x6s you wont regret it.

 

[JT Wood]

Depending on how big I rent / hire a skid steer to dig


I go min 42" down. 10" holes minimum

Basically I need 10' posts to do a 6' fence

Definitely get a truck to deliver premix

To set posts I do the corners and run a string about 6 " off the ground and line it up


Usually looks like laser straight that way


I use screws from the quick drive not nails. And remember the acq fasteners if applicable

 

[DavidC]

At the risk of resurrecting an old argument, I'd skip the concrete and pack the holes with gravel. Level the posts, add a few inches of gravel and tamp well, repeat until full. Won't hold any water near the posts (think about rot) and sets them solid.

Good Luck
Dave

 

[r4r&r]

OK, I could be stepping in it here but why would you even use wood post? If you don't like the look of metal posts then box around them. Sure does make the next fence go up a lot faster if they are set right the first time.

 

[SAW.co]

I also haven't built fences in some time, but I used to do a lot of them.

Do it just as rustbucket says except it is usually a bag of concrete per hole. For a 4x4 post, a 9" diam x 24" deep should be suffiecient. If the concrete is dry enough, you don't usually have to brace the posts.

Ditto everything redwood says:thumbsup:
unless your hanging a heavy wooden gate then u might set that with a 6x6 & go 3' deep.

For a 6' fence use 3 horizontal rails 2 never seems to be sturdy enough.

 

[redwood]

Ditto everything redwood says:thumbsup:
unless your hanging a heavy wooden gate then u might set that with a 6x6 & go 3' deep.

For a 6' fence use 3 horizontal rails 2 never seems to be sturdy enough.

It must be a Calif. thing. 42" post depth?. Maybe in snow country or deep frost depth.

I agree on gates, go deeper and bigger.

 

[deckman22]

How to do your fence post I think depends on your type of soil. In Canada where the soil must be clay like you need 42" holes, here with all the rock we have 24" is a good hole & they get concreted in. If it were me I'd ask some local fence companies your questions.

 

[carolinahandyma]

A fence company I know uses a Little Beaver auger. Some places rent these. They swear this is the best tool for digging fence post holes.

 

[Tom Struble]

hmm... yes.. a little beaver..:detective:

 

[FramingPro]

i dug 48" :whistling

 

[SAW.co]

Wait a second did someone say 'Beaver'?

 

[Calidecks]

Like redwood said if your not in freeze country 24 to 30" holes will do also you might think about putting a little gravel on the bottom of the hole to help keep the post from wicking water

 

[Timuhler]

Thanks guys for all the help. I really appreciate it.

One quick question, for 1x6 cedar, install with no gaps? Or slight gaps?


Thanks!

 

[redwood]

Thanks guys for all the help. I really appreciate it.

One quick question, for 1x6 cedar, install with no gaps? Or slight gaps?


Thanks!

If it's not dry, you will butt them tight, unless you want gaps. My experience was mostly with redwood, which usually shrank about a 1/4".

 

[r4r&r]

Cedar is going to dry out and shrink a good bit.

 

[KennMacMoragh]

For a six foot fence I buy 8' treated 4x4's then dig my holes 20" deep by 12" diameter. If you dig your holes 24" then your fence will be shy of 6' with 8' posts, because you always have to trim a little bit off the top. Then you may have people complaining they can see over the fence. If the posts are for a gate, then I dig 36" deep holes, gates need extra support.

Also, if the topography of the land is anything but flat, then take the time to layout your height correctly. You want to avoid making the fence go straight up a hill then stopping and turning. Make the transitions between the hills a gradual turn, you'll be surprised how much better it looks in the end. I like to set my posts then layout how I want the height with a string, stand back and look at it then make adjustments.

 

[hdrider_chgo]

In my experience, wood posts will last longer if you don't set them in concrete.

I'm replacing a wood fence now at my house that was put in about 15 years ago, not by me. Cedar posts set in concrete, all of them rotted.

You don't need concrete to get posts solid.