Have your customer come in each day after blast and prime areas that you have blasted would be the best thing to do. If not that there are some chemical treatments to use. Hold Blast from Chlorid is what I always suggest for a chemical treatment. www.chlor-rid.com

 

Have your customer come in each day after blast and prime areas that you have blasted would be the best thing to do. If not that there are some chemical treatments to use. Hold Blast from Chlorid is what I always suggest for a chemical treatment. www.chlor-rid.com

X2 what Benny said.

 

I wouldn't ever put any chemical on your work. I tried out harvey's rust shield for instance. It claims you can paint over it. I couldn't even get body filler to stick after using it. It peeled off clean like it was on glass. I asked about this on another post to wet blaster guys and I didn't see an answer yet. I don't believe that you can't paint over any of these and no one wants to pay you as it is let alone for more product and another step.
Here is the thing. Even if they are safe to paint over according to the manufacturer, when your customer screws up the paint on his own he will blaim you. I would stick to blasting longer projects when you see favorable humidity conditions and perhaps prime as you go along as Benny said.

 

Do many of you professional blasters prime the work you do or is that for someone else to do? It sounds like I'm going to talk to the customer and let him know what his options are. Odds are I will be doing some priming and adding to the invoice. Thanks guys for helping a rookie like me!

 

See of you can talk to a Henkel rep in your area. We have a product that we use on cars after blast while repairs are being done called paint grip 253. It is called something like bonderite over where you guys are.

 

I do some priming after blast

BUT!!!! .... If they are doing the top coat
I ask them to buy the primer,that goes with the top coat, ill put it on but it's on them because they bought it.
I only do it as a favor ....

If I'm doing the prime and top coat. Then I will stand behind my work and the product as its written by the manufacturer.

You could put a primer on and they place a cheep top coat over, if it falls it will come back as adhesion failure, this is why I tell the customer to buy a paint and primer that goes together.

Painting adds $$ to your Business, but be carful that you know how and what to use.
Many paint are not compatible.

 

Dale, does a customer have to clean metal from the hold blast before painting?

 

Dale, does a customer have to clean metal from the hold blast before painting?

I'm not Dale, but to answer, no. The hold blast does not leave nothing behind to interfere with any coating. It basically pasivates the surface to keep the surface from flash rusting. Only last three to five days though. If it gets wets or rained on, then it will rust.

 

On some auto body stuff that I've used hold tight. ( And things I'm not painting) I tell customers after prep the metal for paint, sanding or what ever there doing to get it ready, to wash with a thinner recommended by the paint company
PPG has a wash made for this.
Maybe a over kill, but telling the customer that blasting is only the first step of prep and making sure they go the extra mile to get the best results just covers my butt.

I have painted days after using hold tight, and had jobs that have been done 4 years ago look and last fine. ( dump trucks, trailers etc...). Auto body stuff I go the extra to get the technicians to clean it one more time.

 

We used rust inhibitors in our blast water years ago on water tanks and that's been close to over 20 years ago and those paint jobs lasted there coatings life span. Some I know have yet to have been painted again.

 

Hi,

I'm a bit of a lurker on here. What is the consensus on using phosphoric acid, or derived products as a rust converter/inhibitor? I have tried it on a few of my small projects and it seems to work great.

But opinions seem to differ as to whether or not a surface treated with phosphorus needs to be washed before priming. Anyone have some knowledge about this? Looking at you Benny!

Thanks in advance.

 

As a consultant and coatings inspector, unless the contractor is a chemist or a corrosion engineer then they had better be sticking to commercial available materials. If not, then your only experimenting with the customers property. The products that is available out there today have been tested and proven. You may be able to concoct something cheaper, but in the end, how much is a failure worth to YOU?

Hope that answers your question.

Benny

 

I think he was referring to commercially available phosphorus coatings, which is also the same as the ones I was referring to; and whether or not they are good or not and the if phosphoric acid requires washing after application. I think it does, apply sparingly and clean after then dry.

 

Sorry about that. The rust converter coatings are only a short term solution to a long term problem. I never use them nor would I ever recommend them. I call them snake oils. Sounds to good to be true and usually are.