[Calidecks]

Mike.
___
[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

[Calidecks]

We used computer cable grommets for the rail posts.

Mike.
___
[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

[Rio]

Very nice work as always but the rope ends where they descend look like a potential tripper?

 

[Calidecks]

Very nice work as always but the rope ends where they descend look like a potential tripper?

That's exactly what I removed that was there before.
We put it back the same.

Mike.
___
[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

[nickko]

The Green Brothers were weak.

I really like there furniture designs. I have built a few of them and can appreciate their craftsmanship.

 

[Jaws]

Kilronan, main foundation minus summer kitchen, planters and stairs. Can't get it one pic, need to get a drone

As plumbers start roughing we are setting up the garage foundation, over 3k sq ft garage and it's 13.5' tall in the back, cathedral ceiling, spray foam, hvac, went from stone floor to a score and stain with outlines for the cars, two daily drivers and 4 exotics/collector pieces.

Main foundation is over 500 yards with the walls and footings we've already poured, whole house will be well over 650 yards. The compaction worked, plumbers are bitching 😆. Dude on the roller, dude on the hose and a couple of guys on plate compactors are probably ready to do something else. But they got that garage base to do yet

 

[Jaws]

This will be a cool house when it's done, all of the cathedral ceilings in the main living area will have wood ceilings. Elevator, lots of cabinets, big appliance applications. Rock and stucco, 24 gauge standing seam etc.

This one's killing me on selections lag

 

[Jaws]

You know it's bougie when there's 3 ice makers and 2 dishwashers on the plan. Reads like a typical home's bed/bath count.

Yesh, yesh, my kitchens a 3/2, hmmhmm 😅

2 in wall coffee makers at about 5k a piece caught my attention on the first glance.

The appliances cost more than the first house I built as a GC, I think I was almost 28, so about 2010. 😆

 

[Jaws]

Made a deal for this one Sunday evening sitting in my Side by side after clearing brush, covered in sweat and mud drinking an ice cold friendly in my snake boots. 👍

1 mil budget. I wrote the intent before 5 am monday and emailed it, Got signed Intent to Build yesterday and a nice 5 figire wire transfer from her home in Montana.

Construction contracts being drawn up, meeting architects here now and our first design meeting is at 4 today.

Scope of work is tear the front section of house down, rebuild with 10 ft plates, big laundry/mud room, 2 bedrooms and 1 bathroom.

The front - tear down that shed and build a 2.5 car garage attaching to mudroom/laundry, with a storage shed on the opposite side of the lot, and shed roof covering a a single car stall between. Drill a new Pressure cement well in the driveway and install new well pump and tank in the garage, with a Navien on demand

Continued below

 

[Jaws]

Gut the rest of the house, new wire, plumbing, hvac, inch of closed cell spray foam and fill cavities with open cell, Carrier Infinity 21 seer variable speed hvac, 24 gauge standing seam roof. New floors, New fireplace. Master bath completely rearranged, big California style closet with an island in the center with quartz top

This isn't part of the budget, but added today - eliminate the stairs on the dock, build new ones with a landing on the far left side. Bridge from house to Dock tying in at old stairs location, add a half shed roof over the left side of the deck. Widen the swing by 30 inches and move to far right corner, leave gate for a jump gate.

This house and the guest house in front (looks like a garage) we did 3 doors down in 2014, some of yall may remember it, lots of pics of it on here. Tore down all but 600 sq ft, gutted that, built 2800 sq ft New (two story part), redid garage into guest house, tore down the old dock - built a new one. Did that in 27 weeks for 645k, grosses about 100k on it. Hard bid, against 2 other bidders. I was there all day almost everyday hands on, bags on when we framed it, and my brother did all the cabinets with a helper we had just started the cabinets.

Pretty nostalgic today looking at it thinking about that job, and that time period when you don't know if you're going to make it or ever be established and that ball in your gut until the end of the job on whether we'd make any money etc. That job and time line took more balls to sign than any I've signed since probably. Some before that we did for much less money took more balls than this one. No allowances really other than fixtures, lots of risk

My wife used to bring my oldest daughter to see me and bring snacks for my crew and we'd eat lunch down at the lake. My youngest wasn't born and my oldest was about 5. My wife and her wore matching spring dresses and still do. Maybe why I'm nostalgic, my wife texted me earlier and said today's the day I asked her to marry me 20 years ago, got married in October. Pretty cool she remembers the date, I didn't 😆

That and some of the hands on that job are lead carpenters now, and my right hand guy then is the head honcho now. Dude who framed the house above this thread was a know nothing ditch digger then,.smart as hell though and once we fixed his attitude he became an ass kicker

Anyway this house someone else owns now, that's how I got this job. Was originally a 2 mil new build, got all the way to the 1 yard line and she bailed. Then decided to remodel after she scraped it - I don't blame her. She decided she doesn't want to live on the lake, she just wants a weekend lake house. Think they will be outstanding clients 👍

 

[Leo G]

Got it glued up. I used screws. But not "that way". I used them as clamp extenders. A trick I've used for decades when working with angles.

While I was waiting for the window glue up to cure I started making the curved quarter round that will go into the top and bottom after the glass goes in.

And here's the nearly finished window. Cut to size and fitted. Came out really well I think. Was worried about the straight copes meeting with the curved rails. Usually the mullion is only an inch or so wide. These are 3" including the beads, 2" on the flats. Can you see it? Sure, it's about 5-7 thousandths. I'll stick a bit of glue in there and sand over it and the sawdust will fill the "gap"

 

[Leo G]

Holy cow... It fits!!

Well ya.

 

[KAP]

Holy cow... It fits!!

Well ya.

View attachment 544832

View attachment 544833

View attachment 544834

 

[Leo G]

indeed

 

[AllanE]

This will be a cool house when it's done, all of the cathedral ceilings in the main living area will have wood ceilings. Elevator, lots of cabinets, big appliance applications. Rock and stucco, 24 gauge standing seam etc.

This one's killing me on selections lag

What rain screen are you using behind stucco?

 

[Jaws]

What rain screen are you using behind stucco?

For that house Phillips for the paper backed lath. Usually used to use MTI, that's still where we get the zinc coated rain screed, we have our local guy make our door/window pans and cap flashing and rock pocket flashing. We Lexel, a siliconized acrylic caulking behind flanges and flashings.

During the shortages we bought quite a bit of Phillips, Huber doesn't care which you use as long as you use their zip tape and zip liquid flashing and that you have Grade D paper backing. We do a three coat system with an elastomeric coating over it called Sto, which you can get tinted to any SW color.

When we used Tyvek we used Tyveks, I think it's a great product

 

[Jaws]

Demo of the old house, garage and asphalt to make way for a new three story on Inks Lake

 

[AllanE]

View attachment 544875



For that house Phillips for the paper backed lath. Usually used to use MTI, that's still where we get the zinc coated rain screed, we have our local guy make our door/window pans and cap flashing and rock pocket flashing. We Lexel, a siliconized acrylic caulking behind flanges and flashings.

During the shortages we bought quite a bit of Phillips, Huber doesn't care which you use as long as you use their zip tape and zip liquid flashing and that you have Grade D paper backing. We do a three coat system with an elastomeric coating over it called Sto, which you can get tinted to any SW color.

When we used Tyvek we used Tyveks, I think it's a great product

The paper-backed lathe of course is part of code required minimum 2 WRB, I was speaking of drainage planes beyond that. MTI makes Gravity Cavity, which is pretty much bullet proof. I like to use it over the 2 WRB, although I typically will use 3-4 WRB. And yes pans and head flashing for sure, we use lead coated copper for those flashings.

 

[Jaws]

The paper-backed lathe of course is part of code required minimum 2 WRB, I was speaking of drainage planes beyond that. MTI makes Gravity Cavity, which is pretty much bullet proof. I like to use it over the 2 WRB, although I typically will use 3-4 WRB. And yes pans and head flashing for sure, we use lead coated copper for those flashings.

I haven't used Gravity Cavity, we used Sure Cavity from MTI for years until we switched to Zip (zip counts as first layer of WRB) and had issues getting Sure Cavity during covid. Huber rep through Foxworth got us onto Phillips.

Hard to get Lead flashed flashing made here, that's what we always used when I was a carpenter

 

[Leo G]

Finally did the scary part. Cut the curve on the top of the door. Only scary because if I screw it up I ruin the door. But I made it through it. Cut 1/4" past the line and then used a pattern and a 2" flush/pattern bit. I used the upper bearing and rode the router on the pattern if you must know.

Now the bane of my existence - sanding the whole door.