[mattsk8]

Did a grain wrap, miter-fold mantle for the great room addition. Turned out pretty good. Used an aging liquid instead of a stain and it was exactly what my client wanted color wise. Mason will come back and point up around the finished mantle. Have a good 4th everyone!!

Nice work! Wish I could see the grain wrap better. I'm actually working on some cabinets right now where I did that, I'll post when they're closer to finished.

I like you're glue up stand. Care to explain that? Looks interesting, guessing you can take it down and store?

 

[Robie]

Fun is.
A bunch of misc jobs here but I think this 12' gate is going to be my favorite.
Wire brush and sand, prime and paint.
Thank God for the canapy, which was a gift from a member.

View attachment 529249

Well, it isn't rocket surgery but the results were worth the too much work put into it.
After an angle grinder with a cup brush, an electric drill with wire wheel, hand-held wire brush, 60 grit sandpaper and various putty knives...it's done.
She's happy; I'm happy. The heat sucked.

One glitch was...after sanding I realized this was all galvanized (duh). Read my can of Rustoleum metal primer and it said do not use on galvanized metal.
Off to S&W and got a gallon of XIM Acrylic Bonder and Primer/Sealer and had them tint it gray. I've never used it but will again. It went on beautifully and covered great.

 

[Leo G]

Replacing the power module is quite the chore as there aren't any videos out there that show the whole procedure. I'll highlight the steps to do this so it won't be a frustrating experience. Use tape to mark wires and their connectors so it's easier to reassemble. Take pictures so you can reassemble easier.

Tip the mower up and remove the blade, the bolt comes out with a counterclockwise rotation, and put the washer and bolt back on so you don't misplace it.

Put the mower back down and remove the rear black shroud, it has 6 screws. There are 4 connectors and you need to cut the red wire 1 1/2" away from the safety relay. This wire will need to be soldered back on. I covered the connection with heat shrink tubing when I reassembled the unit.

Remove 4 silver bolts from the bottom of the mower deck and lift the whole shroud unit off the mower, it's heavy.

Remove the single screw from the push button panel for the lights and lift it off. Remove the small E clip on the metal shaft and use a punch to push out the shaft towards the end that had the E clip. Lift off the clear battery cover and set it aside. Unplug the yellow connector from the controller to the motor and cut the silver tape to remove the thermocouple.

Remove 5 screws in the top cover, remove the cover and set aside.

Remove the 5 screws on the bottom of the shroud and then separate the shroud from the motor. You'll have to cut a zip tie that holds the white resistor to the motor before you will be able to remove the shroud completely.

Clip the zip tie that holds the wires near the rear of the shroud.

Remove the screw and washer that holds the power module on and lift the board out. Remove the fuse circuit board from the plastic holder in the shroud.

Remove 4 screws that hold the battery connection and green battery release button. Remove the green button and spring from the small assembly. Then you can lift and twist the battery connector out of the assembly.

Reverse to assemble.

Fun is.

 

[Tinstaafl]

Yer fault for buying a high-tech mower. I run the cheapest thing the box store carries, mostly because I mostly mow rocks. Between mower and trimmer, only takes me about 12 hours to do the whole magilla.

 

[Leo G]

I like the mower minus the $100 repair. It works nice and it's quiet. I also have the leaf blower and string trimmer. My lawn is small 1200 sf or so. The mower has no problems cutting it. Now the mower price is crazy. I paid $499 for it. A good portion of that cost is the battery. The wife wanted a non gas mower and she got one.

 

[Tom M]

Got the handles put onto the cabinet job I finished up last week. Used my new hardware jig and it worked very well. I put tape onto the main adjuster to keep things from slipping on the paint which is already slippery enough. The worked very well. Used the stop for the two swinging doors and then everything else was centered with a tape measure.

View attachment 529463

The "kit" I made for the jig isn't as complete as I would like. Still a couple of items it needs to just be able to bring the box in and go. I neglected to put a philips bit in there and had to do so. A space for some masking tape would be nice and a tape measure. Maybe a small 6 footer, that would be more than necessary for 99% of the jobs.

View attachment 529464

Is that the couple of hundred dollar jig or the 60-70 ish jig? I looked at getting one and it seems some have spacers for shaker panel other than that it's hard to tell

 

[Leo G]

Cheap one. The real jig is $225 now.

I got this jig but no shaker spacers

 

[Tom M]

3/16 hole provides a little room anyway.

 

[Leo G]

5mm

 

[tjbnwi]

Wife wanted the front door painted.

Tom

 

[TxElectrician]

Wife wanted the front door painted.
View attachment 529740
View attachment 529741

Tom

My wife wants our front door painted too. Are you down for a trip to Texas?

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[tjbnwi]

My wife wants our front door painted too. Are you down for a trip to Texas?

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

Remind when it gets cooler down there.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

The wife bought a dresser at an estate sale. Two of the center drop pulls had broken pins.

Drilled and tapped harp.

Turning a pin.

All done…

Tom

 

[rblakes1]

Remind when it gets cooler down there.

Tom

Sounds like the polite way of saying you don't want that job...

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

 

[overanalyze]

Nice work! Wish I could see the grain wrap better. I'm actually working on some cabinets right now where I did that, I'll post when they're closer to finished.

I like you're glue up stand. Care to explain that? Looks interesting, guessing you can take it down and store?

Thanks. Yeah the grain didn't show well being maple. I can get some closer pics when we go back for final pics.

That table is a knockdown design I came up with years from a similar design someone on here posted. I modified it and it has been one of the more common things clients ask about. Gets used in the shop a lot and on most trim jobs. I have plans somewhere if you want them.

 

[overanalyze]

There it is in it's half form with a custom MFT top I had made. Also can be setup as an 8' setup.

 

[overanalyze]

Took down. Forgot my address was in there
..DM me if you want a set.

 

[mattsk8]

Here they are.

Awesome, and thank you. This is fantastic because I can make it large enough for big cabinets and it still won't take up much space. God willing I will be building that soon, clamp tables for me are usually everything in my shop that has a flat surface lol. I'm generally good at spreading paper first but glue always eventually finds it's way onto things it shouldn't. Sincerely, thank you

 

[overanalyze]

Awesome, and thank you. This is fantastic because I can make it large enough for big cabinets and it still won't take up much space. God willing I will be building that soon, clamp tables for me are usually everything in my shop that has a flat surface lol. I'm generally good at spreading paper first but glue always eventually finds it's way onto things it shouldn't. Sincerely, thank you

Send some pics when you do! We have absolutely used this a ton. Makes breaking down sheet goods with a track saw nice too. The slots are for track storage.

 

[mattsk8]

Send some pics when you do! We have absolutely used this a ton. Makes breaking down sheet goods with a track saw nice too. The slots are for track storage.

Will do, probably a week ish