Sprayed the final coat today on the feature wall. Sherwin Williams lacquer. 2 coats surfacer, 2 coats finish. Sanding between coats with 320, vac, tack cloth, rinse, repeat.

 

Finished up the wine room. Patched all the holes in the shutter ceiling. Lots of angles. Put up one small shutter and a few floating pcs above them to block off any odd holes. Took about 2 hours. The moved onto the last wall. Wood was getting slim pickings.

Surrounded the door, did the soffit for the whole length and the "post"

 

MLC at Atlantic Plywood custom colors are usually produced that same day. They finally got a matching machine. Stain matches can still take a few days depending on his work load and difficulty of reproducing it.

Bob, my guy is really good at stain match. Usually you can see all of his tries and for the most part you never see more than 6 tries before it's matched. I've seen him get it on the 3rd try.

He's also blown it completely. On one of the stain matches I brought back my stain example of his "match" and he actually said "That color came out of that can?" It had so much extra orange in it, it wasn't even funny.

 

The Denver store is about a little over an hour north of me. I believe they also got a matching machine recently. I call them for a color in the morning, they have it ready the next day, by the time it arrives to me with shipping it's a 3 day deal.

Stains they match (that I can't get myself with dyes) takes about a week. I have to send them a sample and test pieces. Usually see it back within a week. Had one that was a color over color, that took a little longer.

Tom

 

Atlantic Plywood is about 15-20 minutes away from me.

 

Denver Products Finishes store is the only one in state for the full line of finishes. Maybe the only one in a few states around here.

Tom

 

Got started framing my first full addition this week. We've done every part of this many times before (except the couple parts I'm subbing out, such as the poured walls), so there is nothing new here except combining it all together.

Took most of the day to get the beams dropped into place. Had the 1600 pounder up in the air before someone thought to measure the slots for them.... Found out the foundation guys poured the slots a half inch too narrow. Had to set the ***** back down and cut the slots back before we could proceed. Went a lot smoother after that. Got the floor half framed out before the Friday afternoon itch started to distract the boys and we knocked off at 5.

Will throw up better pics as we get the walls up next week.

The house was built in 1837 and has been beautifully maintained and updated. Gotta make sure this addition fits in!

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It was a full weekend...mix of personal and business projects. Finally set my generator and AC unit on the slab after the addition and painting the generator. Also sprayed some KemAqua onsite for some stair trim. And I got my soffit and fascia done at my place too!! That's huge because now my gutters can go on this week. Have a great night all!!

 

Good times[emoji849]

 

Only took me 5 hours to make two of these curved corner hip parts.

 

Next one will be 2.5.

Looks great.

Tom

 

I had to make a template to make my template. :laughing:

I took a 2" wide pc of plywood and did a bevel on both sides of one edge so it formed a point along the length of the edge. I cut it to the proper length for the lower and upper corner boards (9" and 2").

Then I cut a pc of plywood and put angles on both ends. I played the game of sneak up on it until I got the angles and the length of that pc so that it fit nicely between the upper and lower corner boards. I used 2P10 to glue the 3 boards together.

I used a spacer about 1 1/4" wide to form guide lines on the two side curves to use as a reference of straightness when I went to "plot" out the corner curve. I did a quick test and found out that the corner element wasn't wide enough to form the curve, so I just glued another width onto it using the 2P10.

Then I used a straight stick with a point on it and lined up the stick with the lines I placed on the other curved parts and put a dot on the corner element. Then I did this for all the other lines and formed a plot of the curve I needed on the corner element.

I removed the corner and connected the plotted lines. Then I measured out 3/8" from the plotted line for another line which would form the angles to form the corner on the outside of the curve. Cut it on the bandsaw, sanded it smooth on the edge sander. Measured out 2 3/8" to the back of the curve and cut that on the bandsaw to form the width of the curve. I took this template and used it to draw onto a 1/4" pc of Baltic Birch to form the real template I'd be using to route the parts.

Cut that out with the bandsaw, sanded it smooth and then used that to draw onto a pc of 3/4" plywood. I did two of them. Rough cut them out with the bandsaw and screwed the 1/4" template to the blank. I ran that on the router table with a 7/8" flush cutting bit. Then I swapped over to a 45º bevel bit with a bearing. I ran that on the outside (concave) curve and the two straight sections that would form the corners.

Pretty psyched that when I balanced a pcs across the side curves and the corner curves they touched on all three.

 

Missing three out of our of six crew members today. Still managed to get floor framed out, blocking put in, and most of the subfloor put in.

Glued and tacked it down for now. Sending one of the young guys along tomorrow to screw it all down.

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Leo, what'd you use to make that deep bevel on the poplar piece under the lead/copper cap?

 

If I told you, I'd have to kill you.

Just put a spacer along the edge of the poplar, glued it on with 2P10. And then I ran it though the planer several times to form the slope.

I assume you're talking about this

 

Should have this one wrapped up by the weekend

-Rich

 

Bouncing around on a few jobs today. Had to take a trip out to my retail wood supplier because they have a CNC machine. Had a client bring me a molding that had some embossed detail in it that sorta look like train tracks. I can make the molding itself but the embossed portion not so much. They declined to take on the project. Then I remembered that I know another guy with a smaller CNC and shot him a picture and he said he could do it.

Went to Atlantic Plywood and picked up a couple of sheets of 1/8" Italian bending Poplar for the hood. Then I ripped apart the hood and put it back together with glue and screws to make it permanent.

After that I worked on my landlords compressor. We had an 8 hour power outage that must of had a hell of a power surge along with it. It killed the furnace of one of his renters and pummeled the contactor in his compressor. Blew out the coil and destroyed a contact within the contactor. He's gonna need a new one if I can't get replacement parts.

At the end of the day after all the glue had cured I removed all the clamps on the hood and cut a pc of the bending Poplar to see how it'd go. Poplar bends nice, it's only a 50" diameter so it's not exactly a tight bend. But I did find that in between the ribs at the bottom the 1/8" bending poplar is quite flexible and would need more support.

So I cut up 1" lengths and fit them to go in between the ribs. The corners were more difficult because I needed to cut the end with a 34º angle X 31º bevel. I still need to glue them in.

 

The picture doesn't really do this justice.

 

You been hired to save it?

 

We are going to sheet it with 3/4 to match the existing planks. I don't know if they make 3/4 x 9', but it certainly isn't a stock item here. I never thought that the quality of the 7/16 x 9 was as good as the 8' sheets either. I don't know why, but they aren't as stiff and splinter like crazy. Might have been a cheaper brand...

Double up 7/16 maybe? Goes pretty quick. Stack a full 4' course and a 2' rip to stagger seams both ways. Couple nails to hold the bottom course in place then nail both courses home after.

I've put together 5 or 6 of us. We could knock it out fairly quickly I think if a large portion needs redone.

Just spitballing here. Lol

 

Double up 7/16 maybe? Goes pretty quick. Stack a full 4' course and a 2' rip to stagger seams both ways. Couple nails to hold the bottom course in place then nail both courses home after.

I've put together 5 or 6 of us. We could knock it out fairly quickly I think if a large portion needs redone.

Just spitballing here. Lol

If you look at one of the pictures you posted, there is a bunk of 3/4 on the roof. What goes on the roof stays on the roof.

 

This mornings job. Thank you solar city [emoji106]
Snow sliding down over and over ripped down the 2x6 from the 2x4 truss tails. Only thing holding soffit,fascia and gutter up was a pole the homeowner made lol.

Took down all the soffit and fascia and re installed the fascia with screws. Added a 6” gutter and a gutter cover so snow slides right over from now on.
Solar panels have given me so much work[emoji106]

 

Got the sides cut and glued on. I glued the top edge with yellow glue first to hold the panel in place. Then I used the Locktite adhesive Power Grab Ultimate, suppose to have 0 second grab time.

It's thick as all get out and hard to get out of the tube. But I put it onto the curved ribs and then put the panel on it and it stayed put. Since I trust nothing I did a medium pressure clamping on it. Don't want to squeeze it all out. Has to sit at least overnight. Says cures in 24 hours. I put some on a the edge of a pc of plywood and some bending ply and put a clamp on it as a control to see if I can remove it in the morning. If not I'll give it the full 24 hours.

Used some Kerfcore as clamping helpers since it'll help distribute the pressure out over a larger area so I don't get a clamp mark.

I'm trying to keep it to one thickness of bending ply to keep it light. As long as no one is throwing hammers around in the kitchen it should be sturdy enough for a long time.

 

Lol, what did you save? Walls?

Edit: I see the remaining roof to the right.

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Trimmed the side pcs flush with the corner rib. Put a straight edge across the front and the corners were a bit behind the face ribs for whatever reason. So I ground them down a bit, about a 1/16" in the middle section to bring it in plane with the corners.

Then I placed the sheet on, traced it, cut it and checked it for fit. Tried using clamps and realized it was overkill and then tried some tape. The tape was more than enough to bring them together tightly so that's the method I decided to use. The Loctite worked well. My test pc was strong enough that I had confidence that I could remove the clamps before the 24 cure time. Went well.

I decided since the fit on the corners was so nice that I'd rather use yellow glue and get a hard corner instead of the Loctite which would have given me a softer corner. I want a stable corner in case I need to put some putty in there. With the yellow glue I know it won't move and crack the putty. With the Loctite I'm not sure.

So I applied the Loctite on the front ribs, and the bottom cross members at the lower edge. I applied Titebond II to the cross members at the top and bottom and along the corner rib. Used way more glue than I usually do to make sure I'd get full contact. I also put more glue on the bending poplar along the outer edge that would contact the rib. I wanted squeeze out.

I used squeeze clamps and a backer board on the top section which will have flat stock applied to it and then a crown applied on top of that. I want it as flat as possible so I can just apply the board without screwing around with it.

I used 1 1/2" green tape for the corners. I did a 2" spacing on the 1st round so I could get both sides done quick. Then I filled it in to complete it. This does 2 things. Lets me get both sides done quick. And if there is secondary movement the 2nd round of tape will lock that down. It all worked out well. We'll see if it was successful in a few hours.

Pretty sure I'll be sticking with the single layer of bending Poplar. It came out nice enough where I don't need a 2nd try at it.

And the inside

 

Finally getting some lipstick back on this pig. Really burning through the screws though. Using the camo system. Glued up the full length riser out of pvc and also epoxied the nosing pieces and miter joint. I made a bid for gaping the the nosings and doing a square joint not mitered but no dice. Adds a lot of labor to it.

 

I LIKE that corner with the decking....a lot[emoji122][emoji122][emoji122]

 

Took the tape off and flushed up the corners and then did some block sanding. After that I used a block plane to even up the ends of the bending Poplar with the straight portion of the rib so I could apply my moldings.

Applied some moldings I made for the flat lower section. The molding on the top blends the curve into itself and the molding on the bottom is similar but upside down.

Here is a end shot of the molding that blends the curve

 

Geez Leo. Don’t think it could be an better.

 

Gotta put some vertical lines in it for simulated panels. Then time for primer and paint. Gets BM Pale Oak, just like her kitchen is.

 

Got some more sheeted and put up.

One crew will be framing the roof Monday while another starts slapping in windows and doors. Gotta get a lid on this thing and some heat going before Michigan winter switches from first gear directly into third!

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Started this one about 2 weeks ago, turning 1 large bathroom into 2. The one I ripped out had been redone in 1992, house is from 1850ish.

I'm pretty sure this used to be porch, floor was out 1 3/4 from the interior to the exterior. I sistered up all the existing joists with 2x8s, glued, nailed, and ledger locked.

Plumber and electrician were in last week to knock their stuff out, rough inspections yesterday and closed up the subfloor today.

Monday I need to frame the knee wall for the shower and the closet in the kids bath, then insulate. I'll start closing walls up Wed afternoon after insulation inspection

-Rich