Just curious Mike, I don't see any vents for air circulation under that deck?

 

There's a space between each piece of skirting. There's also a space between each deck board. That's plenty for composite.


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

Now you have me wondering Tin. It wouldn't be an issue to cut vents into it. Although I've never done it and have had no issues....yet.


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

Yall have dry air I wpuldnt be worried about it with the gaps you have

 

Vents are fugly, imo


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631] [emoji631]

 

Vents are fugly, imo

Agreed, though there are ways to disguise them.

I'll take your word there's enough gapping to provide ventilation; really don't see it in those pics. But that's a good illustration of the different acceptable building practices in different areas. Around here, we need some pretty good airflow to prevent premature structure degradation.

 

Made the angled blank into a nice curve.

Fits nicely on the bent lamination. The lamination had some spring back. More than the other two. Not sure why. I usually have great luck with the thinner laminations. That won't matter much when the solid curve is glued to it. Won't be going anywhere.

 

Deck rework after hot tub died. I built this close to 30 years ago, including Ipe cabinets. New decking will get stained after it has seasoned for a bit. Shed below got a layer of torch-on.

 

CCA Was good stuff.

 

I've seen above ground PT used on garden boxes rot useless in around 7 years. This is with direct contact to hydrated soil on one side, open air the other.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

 

Hey hey.. No pricing questions

 

Founds some benches under my horizontal disease.

 

I cleaned those two benches so I could start assembling the surround for the door. Jamb is 4 7/8" wide along with the curved header. Instead of using miters I did a butt joint which seemed easier because I don't have to cut a miter on the curve. Took a while to dial the miter on the straight jamb. Mostly because I didn't realize how crooked I had the parts. That's what that center board is. The two ends are square, the length is what the opening is. I measured down from the miter and put a mark on the jamb and did the same on the other. I was off by about 3". After I clamped the board in things went much smoother with a squared up unit.

Multiple hours later I had the jambs screwed together and the miters on the curve and straight trim cut and pocket screwed together.

And here's the top curve

And the two miters which came out very nice.

 

Getting some mud on our Spicewood Custom this morning. Trucks are only 45 mins late which considering we were second pour at 430 that's pretty good. Must be a big commercial account that went first

 

Getting some mud on our Spicewood Custom this morning. Trucks are only 45 mins late which considering we were second pour at 430 that's pretty good. Must be a big commercial account that went first

View attachment 543868
View attachment 543867

How many yards is that pour?

 

Pipe clamps were usually bought three at a time. The majority of my clamps are 38" and 32". I get a pc of 10' pipe and cut it into 2@ 42" and 1@ 36". They were built up over years. About 6 10'ers and 8 80" and the same for 6'ers. The squeeze clamps I got from Ocean State Job Lot when they got a bunch of them in from who knows where. Probably 4 rounds of buying the 22@ 12" clamps and I bought 20 of the 24" clamps all at once because I needed them for a job.

These types of jobs show you that as many clamps as you have you could still use more.

 

So whats the going rate for a clamp these days? 😳🤣

 

Priceless.

 

Why you guys start so early? Is it getting hot there already?

 

I usually pour between 3 - 4, first call. Gives you the best chance to not be there all night. If it's Summer I won't pour unless it's first call

When i was using our carpenters to form and tie bar and hirign finishers id usually I'll get to the site at mI'd night or just after in the summer - pump gets there at 2 to set up, first truck 330 - 345, 15 min intervals

This was a straight sack mix with no additives and it was about 50 this morning at 330, I think it's around 55 now. I imagine his crew will be gone by 5, I will leave soon and go to the office and come back around 1 to watch and make sure they don't try to get on it too soon to leave early. Like I said he's getting to know me I'm getting to know him. Trust but verify

93 yards - plus about 2 that got dumped before washout. Should of formed the AC pads or something for the off fall, slipping 😆

 

I'm putting this here because I know most read this section of the forum.

For those who do cabinetry, if the customer has chosen a Kitchen Aid panel ready dishwasher and you're making/installing inset cabinets the 24" depth wont work.

The spec sheet shows a cutout depth of 24" which we all know is common. On the Kitchen Aid panel ready you need a depth of 25" when using inset cabinets.

There is a small foot note on the spec sheet that states the panel ready dishwasher is 24" deep plus the 3/4" panel. All of the dishwashers with factory faces are 22-5/8" deep.

I missed the footnote so......

We did go back and check previous cutsheets we had, this appears to be a late '22 or '23 change.

Tom

 

I'm putting this here because I know most read this section of the forum.

For those who do cabinetry, if the customer has chosen a Kitchen Aid panel ready dishwasher and you're making/installing inset cabinets the 24" depth wont work.

The spec sheet shows a cutout depth of 24" which we all know is common. On the Kitchen Aid panel ready you need a depth of 25" when using inset cabinets.

There is a small foot note on the spec sheet that states the panel ready dishwasher is 24" deep plus the 3/4" panel. All of the dishwashers with factory faces are 22-5/8" deep.

I missed the footnote so......

We did go back and check previous cutsheets we had, this appears to be a late '22 or '23 change.

Tom

Cut the sheetrock out.

 

And more clamps.....]

 

Have you contacted Kitchen Aid?

 

No.

Tom

 

And what? Demand they make a smaller DW? Sounds like bump the whole line of cabs out and put a larger counter on that run. Along with removing the sheetrock it shouldn't be horrible.

Still sucks

 

Apparently this has been going on for at least 12 years,
Saw a remark about the problem that was 12 years old.
Didn't see a solution other than installing the cabs the same amount from the walls.

 

Cabs are set, tops are on.

We did 3 KA over the last couple of years, did not have this issue.

If you pull the cabs an off the wall, any exposed ends need to be deeper, any talls the bases die into need to be deeper also. We already make the talls 25.5 deep.

Tom

 

Cabs are set, tops are on.

We did 3 KA over the last couple of years, did not have this issue.

If you pull the cabs an off the wall, any exposed ends need to be deeper, any talls the bases die into need to be deeper also. We already make the talls 25.5 deep.

Tom

Didn't know tops were on. Sheetrock off, cut into the stud a bit and support with steel.

 

Built and sprayed these roll outs. No dovetail just rabbet, dado’s, glue and trim head screws. Not my best work but good enough for me and my wife. There for me.

 

Little bathroom job
Barn door wasn’t my choice but with it being so tight it was the best option

 

Moving along on the doorway. Showed the pic of the trim getting glued on. I put a cove on the inside edge and carved out the corners. Other side I'll pre-route the corners on the curve and straight pcs so I don't have to do that. I didn't know what I was going to do with the profile so I hadn't thought about it. But if I didn't to it that way it would have been really tough to clamp it on, so it worked out for me in the end. The other trim pc will be applied in the field after the door is in the RO.

After the glue up I worked on getting the angled members on. Had to move everything back to the way it was and level everything up good so nothing is tweaked. The floor isn't flat and it's an ongoing thing to make sure the woodwork is flat and true.

Used the CAD angles and they were spot on. The distance around the curve was perfect at 15". Pretty shocked it was so consistent. The side to side up top was shy on each side by a 32nd and down below was good at 15" again. Worked out really good. I had something tweaked when I went to put the outermost right angle board on. The inside box was out of square by 1/32". I can't imagine it tweaked it as much as it was though. So I did one side, undid it and did the other side and then put the screws back in and it all worked out. Measurements are good at 3 5/8" front and back so I'm happy.

Just for fun I put the internal box together to see how it looks. I have to cut an angle cut on the outside corners of the curve miter and that will mate with the angle part that covers the box.

Have to put some kind of a sill inside the window bays and then some uprights to get the profiles of the window to line up with the door and mmiter and assemble the other curved trim pc and then it's onto making the 3 windows.

 

I’ve got my work cut out for me the next few weeks. Customer wants all this old woodwork stripped and re-stained. Most of its been started, the “painters” she hired before made a hell of a mess, she told me finally “ran out of diapers” working with them. She doesn’t want it painted and she doesn’t want the trim replaced except for one room in the back where a bunch of stuff is getting switched up anyway. I signed a T and M contract for just a couple pieces to see how well it cleans up and make sure she’s happy before I take on the whole job but I’m pretty sure we’re doing all of it. A lot of the wood is oak but I think some of it is alder too just to keep things interesting.

 

 

Are you crazy? That's gonna take forever.

 

T&M baby!