HSB Town House remodel. Gutted to the studs, New MEPs, closed cell spray foam, ducted and wall mount HVAC units.

The steel is to support a chimney we left in place for POA reds but removed the fire place and stack through 2 floors.

Quick little money maker. Ahead of schedule and under budget

 

HSB Town House remodel. Gutted to the studs, New MEPs, closed cell spray foam, ducted and wall mount HVAC units. View attachment 523505
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The steel is to support a chimney we left in place for POA reds but removed the fire place and stack through 2 floors.
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Quick little money maker. Ahead of schedule and under budget

You‘re screwed now…..

Tom

 

Got lazy today. Got back from grocery shopping and had lunch. Finished up about 12:30. Took off and went to HD to get some stuff around 2:30 and back to the shop, so 2 hours of R&R, been working 7 days a week for a while now. Started working on the exhaust and air supply. It requires the exhaust line to have a 1/4" pitch back to the furnace to drain back any moisture produced. I had a 20' run so 5" of rise.

I made these for the supports at 5' spacing.

I need to end up with a 4" on center spacing so it'll line up with the vent/intake unit (51W11) that gets mounted on the building. So I have a 90/Street 90 to do the offset which is 4"

Got the 2" PVC started. Have to get the holes in the building before the last 2 sections of pipe can be put on.

 

You using solid core PVC?

 

Schedule 40

 

Just started this one.
I'm about 3 days into it.
11k sf
Owner got a price to do restoration on cracks and spalls, but it was outta this world according to him.
Told him hell have some patching to do, but I'll try not to mess up the black top too bad.
Flush cutting columns when done and leaving column pads undisturbed.

 

Finished up the exhaust and air supply today

Put the termination on the exterior of the building. It has the intake on the bottom and it's screened to prevent bugs or birds from getting it. The exhaust has the necessary accelerator built into the opening.

And hooked up condensation trap but still don't know
where it's going to drain to right now except for a pan.

Used the foil tape to seal the main trunk to the furnace so that trunk is sealed now. Well except for the 2x4 hole at the end of the line that will be closed up after I put the registers into the ducting.

I spun up all the black pipe as much as possible without breaking into the gas line. Now I'm kinda stuck because I can't get the 4x8 sheets of polyiso board I need to finish up the in floor ducting. Apparently a really really bad mistake on my part in not getting enough when it actually existed.

 

That's newer codes. Mass has it, CT doesn't yet.

 

Apparently what I bought is solid core.

 

It’s not written into the code most places, it’s in the manufacturers installation instructions which makes it code by default. A few brands do allow for cell. core but not many.

 

Well it's a moot point because it is solid core. Thanks for bringing it up to make me worry.

 

Pretty much solid core won't state it on the pipe but foam core will. Plus looking at it you can tell by cutting it (with a chopsaw). Looks solid throughout and not layered or foamed. Plus shiny outside and heavy. All indications of solid.

 

Plus solid core will have a PSI rating on it. 280PSI for the 2" PVC I bought. Cellular core won't have a PSI rating on it.

 

Finally got windows in this little custom. Ordered them in August.

Stucco going on this week.

Client walk March 31. Yee haw.

 

How do you like using the Zip system?

 

Nice work @JBH !!




Really like it. Try to use it every chance we get.

The fluid applied flashing is the secret sauce to get all the penetrations airtight. We also use it on the bottom of the sheets to the sill plate/slab and the top of the sheets to the crown for sealing out bugs and air.

Another note: for flashing the seams fluid applied is less expensive than tape, material and labor.

For fun on this house we put an apprentice on the seams with a sausage gun.

$25/sausage goes about 200ft.
$35/roll goes 90ft.
Tape and roll: ~1min/10ft seam (600’/hr).
Fluid applied: ~2min/10ft seam (300’/hr).

Material and labor (at $30/hr):
100ft fluid applied seam $32.50.
100ft tape n roll seam $40.

I still like the tape better for seams. Feel like it will hold up better long term. Fluid app might shrink or crack with movement etc.

Probably more than you were asking lol.

Nope that’s exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. Haven’t used Zip sheathing but one time on a tiny job. That doesn’t even count because it was just a handful of sheets. It I do use Zip tape and Stretch Tape exclusively for flashing details. Usually Zip tape and Tyvek combo.

 

Nope that’s exactly the kind of answer I was hoping for. Haven’t used Zip sheathing but one time on a tiny job. That doesn’t even count because it was just a handful of sheets. It I do use Zip tape and Stretch Tape exclusively for flashing details. Usually Zip tape and Tyvek combo.

It’s a no-brainer upsell to clients for us when OSB is $50 and ZIP is $55. Especially when we’re aiming for blower doors under 1ACH50.

 

The 3/4" PVC I got has a 430 PSI rating, impressive.

 

Right now I'm fabricating the bartop components into a whole unit. Every cut I make scares me. Because if I screw up it's a good chunk of change and time to make it right.


The return is about 4" too long right now. Going to be adjusted in the field because it terminates into a wall and I'll have to scribe it most likely.

This side has the lifting bartop gate so that's what the 3/4" overlap is about. I'll cut the length of the bar rail in the field in case something weird goes on and I have to make adjustments.

The gate is long right now and will have to be cut in the field after everything gets aligned. Should be a real bunch O fun.

 

Worked on the bar gate til the end of the day. 1st thing I did was run a dovetail dado that stopped before one edge. Then I made a pc with a dovetail running along the length of the board. Took a few tries to size it so it was tight enough to hold but loose enough to still slide.

Then I glued an edge on the working side of the bar to double the thickness of the top to 1 1/2". Then I put some biscuit slots on the inside edge of the sliding dovetail board and the edge thickening board and the mates to a pc of plywood.

On the drinking side of the bar the bar rail will get screwed in place and now the plywood is trapped but the solid wood is still able to deal with humidity changes and expand and contract.

The main purpose of the sliding dovetail is to keep the open end flat and true while allowing the board to move with the seasonal changes.

 

You truly are a master craftsman.

 

Almost there....

Day 5 of the 11k sf. Bid it for 8 days. Starting the ramp tomorrow which is butted up to the neighbor. Has to be surgically demo'd. I figured 2 days plus 1 day for hicupps. Shooting to be 100% Friday.

 

Sorry a bit blurry. One of my guys took the pic. I think his phone is a potato xl max

 

Went up to the man cave to be and started fitting the bar. Didn't get but one pic and it was early on. Got a good deal done. Got the lower nook cabinet scribed into place, got the bar scribed in place, got the sink cabinet scribed in place. The bar back wall was screwed together to form an L, scribed to the floor and put into place. Got the pedestal scribed to the floor but not the wall. The sub top had a corner notch cut out and scribed to the wall. The bartop was done next, same thing - notched and scribed to the wall corner. Then the bar rail was cut to size and scribed to the wall.

The bar sub top, top and rail were all raw and have to be brought back to the shop to have the gloss finish put on them.

I took measurements for the remaining wainscoting.

I didn't really get anything done with flip bar top, didn't even bring the parts with us. That should be a real PITA to get all balanced out perfectly aligned.

 

Just finished this addition/whole-house gut project. Four months start to finish

Just

 

Nice!

 

Not a fan of this house, first and last internet plans I build. Hell of a house for the price, hence no chimney cap. Interior turned out nice, proud of our PM he got a lot done on this one for their budget. This house had every delay and cost overrun due to covid you could have. Framing package was double what it was when I quoted it 😆

Lake Buchanan custom

 

Foundations close on Highland Haven addition. Every concrete sub in the area wanted more than double what I thought it was worth for this simple Simon ass little slab, so we did it, looks like we will gross 8-9 bucks a ft and I was 11k under the next bid. Thought everyone was mad at me or maybe the WCI tax (that's a real thing) was getting higher on me, but nah I called my builder amigos they are paying big increases to framers or concrete guys, roofers, masons, everything. This is pretty recent, this is after everything went up 30% last year. It will keep coming up as long as the clients want to pay it, ready to see some median homes stop getting built to free up some labor and materials when interest hits 5.5% by may

Booms are a hell of a thing to see in person. These same guys will be half that in the fall out. Get it why it's there fellas 👍 , you ain't getting it from Mr. John though 😆

 

Llano River Custom in Castell. 24 gauge charcoal metal roof went up 60% since last april (dindt start until october) . Bid it out 3 ways. This time it's on the owners, I made framing packages and roofs etc.... and allowance, not doing cost plus on this Simple Simon house, deposit and 6 draws, also draw is 5% due at punch.

I lost about 4k on the foundation from a steel spike and dirt was 20% higher. Masonry is up 15%, a buck a ft and it's a full house masonry. 3k out of the big fellas pocket.

They broke my heart not doing TNG cedar or pine on the porch ceilings. I hate Hardie ceilings, but its a weekend home. I even offered to throw a grand at it to knock it down, it was specd from the beginning. Framing package came in under allowance too

 

Slacker.

 

Highland Haven addition, will be ready for Monday but probably pouring wedensday.

That room its attatched to gets demo'd but we are going to dry in first

 

Oak Ridge Custom, sticks going up.

 

Just bought my second batch of Impervia. They are becoming my go to for mid range

A Series Andersons are 22 weeks out lol