[superseal]

Here's the 9" vs the 14" again...It's a monster...pic does it no justice I'm telling ya

 

[superseal]

I would just use my trowel as a template and then grind that badboy down to size:thumbsup:...if I got it for cheap that is.

Would that be South Carolina or Connecticut pattern :whistling

 

[stonecutter]

Would that be South Carolina or Connecticut pattern :whistling

It's the non-popeye forearm pattern. But I heard if you cut off the sleeves of your t-shirts it helps.:laughing:

 

[dom-mas]

It's the non-popeye forearm pattern. But I heard if you cut off the sleeves of your t-shirts it helps.:laughing:

hahahahahahahahahahahahaha

 

[dom-mas]

SS- That is a Mighty Collection. Other guys call things as they will. I always ran with calling a jointer a jointer. And, a slicker (which is a man's best friend in stone work), one of these:

The width of these go from tiny on up!

I mention I need a slicker and I'm looking up a nose.

I'm with you JD3. I call all the tools superseal has on his desk jointers; grapevine jointer, bead jointers, square bead jointer, concave etc.....

and I call that think that you showed a slicker, Although I often use it as a jointer also since i like to use the wood handle to strike my joints. I have a few slickers that have handles that are barely 2".

 

[fjn]

Pointing

SUPERSEAL It is funny how tools have different names in various places. Around here your rat tail is called a bulls horn.

 

[sokoleoko]

I have a client that is looking to re-point a historic building. The problem is the brick joints are roughly 3/16" and the engineer wants us to remove and replace mortar to a depth of 3/4". We have found the the Fein saw with the grout blade seems to be our best tool for removing the mortar. Installing the new mortar has been challenging. We are doing a mock-up next week and would love some suggestions.

Any tips?

You will never be able to fill those tiny joints once you grind`em so deep...

Paul
Tuckpointing Chicago

 

[superseal]

You will never be able to fill those tiny joints once you grind`em so deep...

Paul
Tuckpointing Chicago

Are you serious? What do you guys use out there...conduit :whistling

 

[stonecutter]

Are you serious? What do you guys use out there...conduit :whistling

:laughing::thumbsup:

 

[lukachuki]

You will never be able to fill those tiny joints once you grind`em so deep...

Paul
Tuckpointing Chicago

What? All you have to do is tape the brick, use a stucco sprayer/gunite gun, tool the joints, remove the tape and BINGO.

<ps....keeping my post count ahead of stonecutter is a fulltime job! He is the internet version of greased lightning. He probably walks around with with his iPad just so he can fire off his posts anytime night or day. :laughing: >

 

[JD3lta]

Mudpan or bucket works.. Keep a 5gl. w/h2o, and use a grout bag.. Historical building= you have to double tap it.. Hollow is bad. GL, If you don't know your way around a grout bag or an auger gun, it may film/stain. You need wet mud. Experience helps a lot. As a matter of fact Masonry is another, 'I make it look easy' job.

 

[stonecutter]

What? All you have to do is tape the brick, use a stucco sprayer/gunite gun, tool the joints, remove the tape and BINGO.

<ps....keeping my post count ahead of stonecutter is a fulltime job! He is the internet version of greased lightning. He probably walks around with with his iPad just so he can fire off his posts anytime night or day. :laughing: >

iDont have any of that stuff...and if you saw my cpu you would piss yourself laughing.

 

[fjn]

pointing

The method mentioned by LUKACHUKI seems plausible enough. In one of my previous post on this topic i mentioned in one of Gerard Lynch's books he offers a system somewhat like that (no gunite machine) to point gauged work.

 

[dom-mas]

I won't press the point, or maybe I will, but use the trowel/hock and slicker method. It's fast and is time honoured. Low staining, low shrinking and the only way approved by ANY restoration engineers I've come across. And it's very easy to pint to 3/4" depth. I wouldn't want to do more than 1 1/4" but 3/4" is a little less than I normally do with old brick and it's straightforward.

 

[lukachuki]

The method mentioned by LUKACHUKI seems plausible enough. In one of my previous post on this topic i mentioned in one of Gerard Lynch's books he offers a system somewhat like that (no gunite machine) to point gauged work.

Well TBH I was jesting. Doing the pointing as I described above just creates a funny mental picture. I can't imagine taping off every brick pressing each edge to make sure it doesn't bleed, and then covering it with 3/4" of mortar. At that point how do you even see the joints? LoL.

I think that this little problem has pretty much been settled by our previous <excluding mine> posts.

 

[fjn]

pointing

LUKACHUKI Lynch does not advise the tapeing of each brick,however if memory serves, a plastic 'shield" was mentioned.

 

[stuart45]

LUKACHUKI Lynch does not advise the tapeing of each brick,however if memory serves, a plastic 'shield" was mentioned.

The method I was taught for gauged work was to sandwich some lime putty between some plastic or waxed paper and flatten it down to the joint size with a piece of wood. Then slide it into the joint and hold it in with the jointing iron and take away the plastic. It's quite a long process.
I usually just push it in with a thin jointer. The good thing about rubbing bricks is that you can clean the joints up later with a fine carborundum stone.
I will try lukachuki's method next time though as he always has some really good tips.

 

[dom-mas]

The method I was taught for gauged work was to sandwich some lime putty between some plastic or waxed paper and flatten it down to the joint size with a piece of wood. Then slide it into the joint and hold it in with the jointing iron and take away the plastic. It's quite a long process.

.

A similar method to true "tuckpointing"