Scuff it up good, apply BIN (not water based) and then lightly scuff and paint. It would probably be best if you did a test spot to make sure they didn't load it up with some sort of a silicone based cleaner (Pledge). Then use a razor blade and make a checker board pattern in the paint with 1/16" squares. Put on masking tape and press it on real good then rip it off. If more than a few squares come off you may have problems dow the line.

 

I would think the probable adhesion culprit was a failure to degloss the clear coat on the stain.

 

...uh...I'm assuming this is exterior and no silicone or clear coats were involved

You'll want to figure out exactly why (or at least a high probability as to why) the coating is failing...it could make a difference as to how to approach it

 

...uh...I'm assuming this is exterior and no silicone or clear coats were involved

Kripes, what if though?
It is highly unlikely, but then again...solid color stain shouldn't be rejecting paint.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Solid exterior stain is usually a good surface to paint over. Is there any dirt or chalk under the paint that is peeling off? I would think pressure wash, scrape, paint using two coats with emulsa Bond in the first coat. Painting like you said when the air is too cold and damp or conversely painting in the sun on a hot day could be the cause.
Jim

 

.....a good surface to paint over?? What if it's oil stain? Is everyone so young that you've only used latex stain(not stain at all)? pd

 

I have trouble lately finding an oil based solid color stain...at least Sherwin Williams doesn't carry one anymore, that is why I assumed it was a latex.
And their solid color stains make my deck jobs shine.
Well, not "shine", but look good.


Are you so old that outrunning a dinosaur on your way to the paint store was part of your day?

:laughing:

 

Even an oil based solid stain should be a good base for paint. You can paint right over Sikkens Rubbol with just your standard prep work. They discontinued their oil product in favor of the acrylic siding finish. It works fine right over the old oil.

 

I would guess the last guy got the job done at the end of the season,:whistling Most painters don't think about the night time temps, when latex goes below 35 degrees it loses it's adhesion, and if there is clear coat under it:blink: well it's no wonder why it didn't hold up, that's why I don't paint anything outside when that night time temps drop below 40 degrees.
I don't care what claims sherly williams says with their paints go to 35 degrees,



www.frankawitz.net

 

I would guess the last guy got the job done at the end of the season,:whistling Most painters don't think about the night time temps, when latex goes below 35 degrees it loses it's adhesion, and if there is clear coat under it:blink: well it's no wonder why it didn't hold up, that's why I don't paint anything outside when that night time temps drop below 40 degrees.
I don't care what claims sherly williams says with their paints go to 35 degrees,



www.frankawitz.net

That's why SW recently introduced the Resilience line of exterior coatings.
They realized that painters were applying the low temp 35, but that wasn't combating the overnight temps or dew that forms when the temp drops. Resilience "surface cures" much faster than any other exterior coating to combat the moisture and overnight temperatures.

So remember, buy Resilience at your local Sherwin Williams!
shameless plug

They sherly do take care of us painters that cannot take care of ourselves...

 

There could be a number of reasons why its peeling but do not use shellac outside as a primer.................as slick said try and find out the cause , bring a rep out there and put your heads together, then tackle it.

Good Luck............

 

I don't think at this stage of the game they are going to want to correct this past problem! I mean the only way to fix the problem realistically is to remove (Strip) all the coatings on top of the last secure coating or down to the wood. Way to expensive and the property would be better off to siding the place instead of stripping even replacing the wood and repainting would be cheaper than stripping.

I think all you can do on this one is clean, scrape, prep, and cover this with an acrylic like Duration, Perminizer or Aura they will stick to everything.

A place like the one you described needs to have you paint them this year, and have you come back every year and pressure wash and touch them up.:thumbsup:

 

When you say:

I don't want my paint to peel like the last guys. I assume he used cheap product or applied in wet or cold conditions. Are there any reasons to put any more thought into this. Thanks.

I think you think there may be some kind of product that will lock the last paint in place, kind of like a shield. There is nothing that will keep the other paint from coming off, our products are only as good as what we are painting on.

 

Cabot's oil solid stain is pretty shiny.. I would assume the failing paint is due to prep and improper cleaning.

 

Paint Over Solid Stain

Using dark colors like black and dark browns will cause cracking and cupping of the wood in direct exposure to the summer sun, dark colors will also cause natural resins or sap to migrate or to be drawn out causing the paint to peel off. Peel away a bubble and check to see behind it, if you see sticky yellow stuff, its sap and you have problems. Also sunlight can cause the paint on the surface to skin over and trap solvent in the film, as the solvent tries to escape, blisters will form in the paint, and you also have problems. The best solution is to remove blisters, sand and repaint, in the shade with no rain expected for several weeks. Usually you can paint right over exterior stains, as long as it is properly cleaned.
My advice, call a professional and dont do it your self Mr. home owner or General Contractor!
www.Jasbpainting.com