I got a side job doing trim on a unfinished house but the trouble is that I haven't had to do an arched opening. The trim is to be MDF 2 1/4 ogee Base/Case. What would be the best way to try to bend it. Thought about relief cutting the bottom which would become the top to create a fan. Suggestions please.
How to trim an arched window
Hardly Working
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Hardly Working,
We're both in Seattle, if you're interested you can come over to my shop and I'll show you how to make up the jamb and trim as a joined unit. Then it can be placed and nailed off fairly easily.
Nice job Lone, that's knocking them out very efficiently.
Keith
206 669 2087
We're both in Seattle, if you're interested you can come over to my shop and I'll show you how to make up the jamb and trim as a joined unit. Then it can be placed and nailed off fairly easily.
Nice job Lone, that's knocking them out very efficiently.
Keith
206 669 2087
Mac has it right those WH molder planers are great for that type of work.
Who is supping the millwork they should be able to point you in the right direction. OB Williams can make that for you but it will cost you.
I'd take Keith up on his offer though, just to see his work
Who is supping the millwork they should be able to point you in the right direction. OB Williams can make that for you but it will cost you.
I'd take Keith up on his offer though, just to see his work
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Keith
I'll take that offer to stop by your shop. Your work is something to admire.
What's your location? I'm now on the eastside in Jaunita.
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17,394 Posts
hey...i wanna see his shop too:sad:
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flex trim?is that anything like flex j:shifty:
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Hardly Working,
I'm located on West Marginal Way, near Georgetown, about 45 minutes from you.
A couple of things you'll need first.
Determine your reveal. It will be the same as all the other windows. Measure from reveal to reveal where the transition occurs from straight to curved. Next measure from the center point to the apex keeping the same reveal. You will need a piece of the molding. If it is flat then you're home free. If profiled then you will need a knife to make the profile. I have a Woodmaster, making the profiled trim is very straight forward.
I'll be in the shop most of the week, give me a call.
A number of people have asked about the shop over time. I have the beginnings of a decent shop. It's not yet finished, don't know that it ever will be... That said I've seen outstanding work come out of garage shops and crap come out of 20,000 sq foot shops. The most important part is the person who does the work.
Bconley,
My hat is off to you. I lived for several years in Tacoma, never had a single job there. Everyday I drove to Bellevue, Seattle, Mercer Island, Kirkland, etc...
I'm located on West Marginal Way, near Georgetown, about 45 minutes from you.
A couple of things you'll need first.
Determine your reveal. It will be the same as all the other windows. Measure from reveal to reveal where the transition occurs from straight to curved. Next measure from the center point to the apex keeping the same reveal. You will need a piece of the molding. If it is flat then you're home free. If profiled then you will need a knife to make the profile. I have a Woodmaster, making the profiled trim is very straight forward.
I'll be in the shop most of the week, give me a call.
A number of people have asked about the shop over time. I have the beginnings of a decent shop. It's not yet finished, don't know that it ever will be... That said I've seen outstanding work come out of garage shops and crap come out of 20,000 sq foot shops. The most important part is the person who does the work.
Bconley,
My hat is off to you. I lived for several years in Tacoma, never had a single job there. Everyday I drove to Bellevue, Seattle, Mercer Island, Kirkland, etc...
use flex trim ....because the radius in your pic is more of an ellipitical than an arch they will need a template ...millwork company will come out and make or make it yourself ...take a piece of red rosin paper or any kind of paper that is as wide as opening and tall enough to catch the radius ....tape or pin the paper to each side of opening and use a pencil or crayon and just shade over the opening along the edges ...like you did with coins as a kid ...make sure you get about 2-3 inches of the leg or jamb as well as the radius ....take it to your supplier and have them send it to the numerous flex mould manufacturers and in about 2 weeks you will have a piece that matces that opening exact ...if you have multiple openings and they are the same width but different radius (even an inch or so) you will need multiple templates...
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I'd rather cut the trim from sheet of PVC or MDF. Or even take the time to rip and glue the trim than pay close to $150 for a 12' piece of crap trim. Then I bank the difference for my time.
If you're really backed up on work then I'd use the flex trim. I'm not.
If you're really backed up on work then I'd use the flex trim. I'm not.
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1,820 Posts
hey Lone, not tellin' you how to run your show...but! IMHO the next time you do a video like that, you otta get that fella in the background on a gorilla or bear suit:thumbsup:...:notworthy
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Not sure what security is like at Keith's but I'll try to sneek my camera in for a few pics. Don't let him find out though.
I'd go with the custom shop making the trim. The last job we did with FlexTrim was a disaster! We sent in the template for a pair of quarter-round-top windows. With the problems that I've had with FlexTrim not quite matching standard profiles in the past, I asked for straight pieces of it for the rest of the window. When my order came in, they hadn't included the straight stock, so I called about it. They insisted that they "don't do straight pieces" anymore, but that my curved pieces were a dead match for the stock Sauder casings. They weren't even close. being substantially off in both width and thickness. When I contacted them about the problem, they did provide me with some straight stock. When it arrived. I found that it varied as much as 1/8" in width from one piece to the next, and even more in thickness. We got it installed, it looks reasonably good, and the client is thrilled. The experience was enough to make to go to a custom shop in the future.
WH is a great machine for the money but at some point you get past what it can do. Then look to a US Concepts machine:You just need one of these
![Image]()
Leo has a thread on curved moldings you might want to look at http://www.contractortalk.com/f13/curved-moldings-74133/
Personally, I would not attempt it myself. I would refer them to someone who does custom millwork, you want them to have it done the right way.
http://www.usconceptsinc.com/archMoulder-fas-hd.cfm
Or for even higher volume, a CNC with a dedicated 10HP horizontal molding head like a Komo Mach 3 or Northwood Machinery. You can make complex profiles on just about any CNC using multipass, but the program can be complex, and it takes alot of machine time:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base_images/zp/radius_moulding_machinery_choices.jpg
I would love to find a video of the komo in action. Since it used the same corregated back knives out of a Wienig/Wadkin feed through moulder, your straight profiles always matched the radius. With a dedicated 10HP spindle, you could run 9 inch wide profiles. For paint grade we used to cut them out of rangerboard MDF, so there was no glue up time, and Azek sheets for outdoor stuff.
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