[tshipper12]

No, but why give them an extra reason to complain?

I am currently painting a very large house, which I DEFINITELY should have charged more to complete... but the first day I got there I almost fainted when I saw the amount of nail holes! They were EVERYWHERE!! I counted 120 nail holes in one door frame. The first 3 days were spent filling nail holes!

 

[tshipper12]

I have followed behind finish carpenters that had to put the doors in the way you describe, yes it sucks for the painter. I agree with you that you should only use enough nails to secure frame.

I am a painter, and I appreciate yall bringing this up. I am currently in the middle of filling thousands of nail holes in this mansion I'm painting. It sucks!

 

[Tom M]

Ohhhhh I probably do 5-6 18g at a door jamb and 3-4 on the wall side.

 

[avenge]

I am currently painting a very large house, which I DEFINITELY should have charged more to complete... but the first day I got there I almost fainted when I saw the amount of nail holes! They were EVERYWHERE!! I counted 120 nail holes in one door frame. The first 3 days were spent filling nail holes!

So you estimated it without looking at the job first? You following a DIY installation?

 

[JFM constr]

reminds me when client trashed me for not have enough nails .Shoot I thought I was doing him a favor in not nailing the crap out of everything . Anyhow grabbed my gun and nailed S%$#T out of it . I would think you should be able to do an up charge ,the stuff guys leave to the painters can just suck up so much time . you should not expect to deal with stupid stuff

 

[wedgepm]

I try to keep the nails in pairs, usually 5 per leg and 3 per header. If for some reason I don’t add long screws to the top/bottom hinges and strike plate, I’ll shoot a couple more nails at those locations

Then I typically add a couple brads to the inside edge anywhere it’s not tight to the jamb

 

[Ed Corrigan]

try to keep the nails in pairs, usually 5 per leg and 3 per header.

I just took the casing off a door that was hung in 1942?ish today. That is exactly how it was nailed.

 

[Big Johnson]

@ least 350.

 

[Railman]

I was taught to hand nail 5 - 4's or 3's (16" oc) in jamb, & 4 - 6's in wall. Fast foward 20 years with nail gun, it became 4 sets (roughly 20" oc) of 16ga x 1 3/4" in both. We did that on stain jobs, and paint as a standard. 90+% of what we did then was stain jobs.
Today virtually all trim is paint.
Caulking reduces nailing requirements drastically. Fact is it holds waaaay better than Nails.
Door jambs used to be full 3/4". Now it's all 5/8". This results in a reduction in optimum margins, down to 3/16".

 

[Tom M]

Different animal. Hand nailing trim to jambs required solid shimming in jambs or your trim would be moving the jamb placement.

Not that you don't shim now, I still do but with a nail gun you get away with less.
There are guys that don't shim doors at all and hang pre things by trim like brick mold. Hollow doors you get away with stuff

 

[JoeStanton]

Different animal. Hand nailing trim to jambs required solid shimming in jambs or your trim would be moving the jamb placement.

Not that you don't shim now, I still do but with a nail gun you get away with less.
There are guys that don't shim doors at all and hang pre things by trim like brick mold. Hollow doors you get away with stuff

I have a friend who is a carpenter and he yells at me about shimming doors. Oh you're the a hole who shims it so I can't adjust later? I kindly explain a well set door is nothing more than a long screw and/or shim adjustment if anything. We shim 6 locations per door and shim the top if needed.

When I wet my beak in 1998 we were hand nailing interior trim, turned me off of trim for a long time. I still remember using 16 penny finish to set jambs.

 

[Tom M]

I use 16's on exterior sometimes still.