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Handicap Ramp

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12K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  Xtrememtnbiker  
#1 ·
I have built a few decks, but never a ramp. This will be a permanent deal on the house that I live in and a friend is buying it who's parents will need it.
I'm about to go outside and measure it with a level and such, but I'm looking at roughly a 20' long ramp straight out from an existing deck.
The deck isn't built to current code. So I'm not wanting to use it to support the ramp. Do I do individual posts bolted to each joist or is there a way to
do a girder that supports all the joist (less holes to dig)? Also, as far as materials cost go, would it be cheaper to go with a shorter span 10' maybe, and make
two sections to go with smaller joists? Any help is greatly appreciated (tonight hopefully as I need to submit plans tomorrow).
Also what width would you guys build it? Thanks
 
#3 ·
SLSTech said:
I would start here for a ton of good info & links: http://www.contractortalk.com/f11/ramp-thon-50366/ & at least 4' wide
I wasn't able to find as much info on the framing aspect that I was hoping for. It's going to be a 21' long ramp with 16" of rise.
I will do it 4' on 16" centers. So that is four joists. What would it look like to do a girder for supporting the joists that is attached to posts?
I'm trying to picture how I would attach them together such that with the slope of a ramp the joists would rest on the girders.
I have all the information on joist sizing and spacing and girders etc for decks and I had planned to build to the same specs.
I just can't figure out these girders...
 
#4 ·
You could build it like you would build a deck with dropped beams....set your beams on the posts, joists on top of the beam with hurricane straps and blocking mid span. Set your posts 7 feet apart and it should make the ramp pretty sturdy- motorized wheelchairs can get pretty heavy. It would most likely require some digging at the very end of the ramp to get enough clearance for your last beam but it should be fairly simple.
 
#6 ·
What Deckman said.

A pair of holes below frost for your area 6' o.c., bolt on a carry beam between the posts and 2x8 joists is what I do. The post carry right up to support your guardrails. Don't forget the put a curb on the edges to prevent the chair wheel from sliding off.

20' may be a long haul in a non-motorized chair so consider a level resting platform 1/2 way. 4' square would be fine, just remember that this will add to the length of the ramp.

Good Luck
Dave
 
#7 ·
DavidC said:
20' may be a long haul in a non-motorized chair so consider a level resting platform 1/2 way. 4' square would be fine, just remember that this will add to the length of the ramp.

Good Luck
Dave
I like 5' platforms. Leaves plenty of room to turn around no matter what kind of chair.
 
#8 ·
You need 1:12 slope which comes out one foot of ramp every inch of rise. So if you got 20' ramp, your landing at the end should 20". Have to have a minimum Platform 5’ x 5’ at top and bottom of the ramp.

You need minimum 5’ x 5’ flat area if you making a break along the way... the ramp itself should be minimum 36" wide of clear span (measured between the railings)

Ramp requires handrails on both sides of the ramp. If I missed something look up here: ADA ramp Specifications
 
#12 ·
This is similar to how we built the ramp for a WW2 vet except we zig-zagged it behind the deck to reduce the distance that it went out into the yard. We ended up installing 2 landings that were 6x8 so that the chair could make a comfortable U-Turn while descending without stopping to adjust while going down the ramp.
 
#15 ·
ScipioAfricanus said:
It is a residence, ADA regs are not a requirement.

Build it to whatever is code in your local and comfortable for all concerned.
In most places you are required to have guards if not over 30" to grade. You may still want them though.

Andy.
He has 30+ at least in some areas, with a 42" initial height