lay a 2x4 on edge against the existing frame work of your gate.
straightens it right up.

 

In my experience they always have twisted inward. I put a block on the bottom of the post to act as jamb that the gate will close against and it will keep it from twisting. If it is an existing twisted gate it will be hard to close for a while through a few wet dry cycles, but it will eventually straighten.

 

Anything for a fellow Okie.

flush frame X bracing, use screws / const adhesive, place a gusset on all four corners. No more warpie.

Jon Mon www.deckmastersllc.com

 

while this is not a gate the principle is the same, fast easy, I am refering to the 2x4 on edge next to the handle, old barn yard trick

 

Thanks for clarifying with the pics. I thought that maybe was what you meant but wasn't quite sure.

I currently build my frame so that the 2x4s go flat against the pickets, I wonder if building the frame so that the edge of the 2x4s go against the pickets would reduce this tendency to twist out. It would make the profile of the gate thicker, but it shouldn't add to the overall weight. I may give this method a try and see how it works out.

 

I had the exact thing happen to me as well. Selection of wood is key no doubt. When I had gone back and looked at it I realized that the piece of PT 2x4 that I used was fairly knotty, that and it was pretty damp when I got it.

So those are the first things I try to take make sure of, that its relatively knot free and dry.

But that was half the battle I started thinking to myself...well I cant always control if its gonna bow, but I should be able to control which way it bows. So I knew that the hinge side couldn't really go anywhere, so it was only the latch side of the door that mattered.

My main plan was to actually buy dry, knot free lumber that had an obvious bow in it. Nothing major but something that i could definitely say, "yes it will bow this way." So now I face the bow side away from the latch. I put a stopper block on the bottom of the latch side post so that when the door closes the bowed lumber hits the bottom block first and then latches into the top, Thereby locking it in a straight plane.

So even if it wants to bow in the future it has to push toward the stop block and not away from it and its always firmly latched at top so this in my mind will help to keep it from going crazy. Even if it did start to get a little out of shape, the gate itself should have straight lines when closed, which to me is the most important part.

 

my shed door is kinda twisted...
I built it in the sun so.. it must have warped.. I Now build doors with 2x4s on edge!