I'd find some 12" or so long hanger bolts, bore through holes on your sub structure 2x4s per bolt location, wrap with 3/4" to 3" finished. The machine thread end would allow nut and washer placement for font end alignment.

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https://www.etsy.com/listing/693814563/floating-mantel-bracket-2-inch-back?ref=related-5&frs=1

 

The 1/2" rod method works well. Accurately find the center of the stud and use a bit the right size so that you really have to hammer the rod in.

Too late to do anything before drywall? With an OTR hanging from the shelf I'd consider something a little more beefy, in the wall. Like a couple L brackets nailed to side of 2 studs (like the size of a framing square with a 12" leg)

 

I have done floating shelves using 5/4, 6/4 & 8/4 lumber.

Preferably 4x blocking has been installed but if not CAREFULLY find center of studs.

Then i buy long lags, dia depends on shelf & framing.

Pilot hole studs/framing and install lags.

Cut heads off and counter bore shelf.

Install shelf.

Been pretty bullet proof.

 

With a micro, you might want some tastefully done allthread or black iron pipe to the ceiling.

Micros are heavy, especially when gramma wants to heat up the whole bowl of soup...!


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Microwave adds a whole other level to this. Those typically come with their own mounting hardware and instructions. I'd read those carefully to find out what the requirements are and if you can get a lot of that weight going backward into the studs instead of all hanging off your shelf.

Is the tile already there? It'd be real cool if you could open up the drywall and fasten directly to the studs then have the tile guy work up to your shelf. One of the last shelves I installed was above tile and I ran into a problem where the rock wasn't really up against one of the studs but still had tile over it. Once I attached my bracket above the tile, the rock was pulled tight against the studs which cause nails to pop and the tile to get yanked off of the rock. So yeah, watch out for that.

 

12" x 1/2" hanger bolts would be strong enough, just not readily available.

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I wouldn't put a microwave on it. Use the wall mount for the microwave, that will handle the weight.

if you can talk her into a shelf not as deep, it may be better given the conditions of not having the wall open.

 

Nobody said anything about putting a microwave on it. An OTR micro puts a significant amount of weight on the cabinet/shelf above it.

 

I think he meant on it like, attached to it. Bearing the hanging weight of.

 

https://originalgranitebracket.com/...llections/shelf-brackets/products/free-hanging-shelf-bracket?variant=1603802307

 

Cool, basically what I proposed, but someone's already made them.

Only thing these aren't great for is alligning a shelf directly with tile layout. I often make a 2 1/2" shelf that matches the height of the back splash tile and basically replaces a row. Hard to land right on a grout line at rough in phase. If the shelf it tall enough you do have some leeway and can shim above or below the bracket.

 

I use the brackets Leo linked a lot, I keep them in stock I use them so often.

In this case I’d consider Sheppard Brackets.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SheppardBrackets?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=693814563

Tom

 

Very nice for new construction or pre drywall.

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Whatever Bob Vila would do.....do the opposite

 

Those would be easy enough to make and I think even improve on a bit.

 

OPer: " I am tiling to ceiling from back-splash...."

Install FULL depth blocking, such as a 4" x 8" blocking that extends past either end of the shelf, and consider wider blocking at MWave, (Vent)?
even a piece of 1/2" plywood instead of dry wall under the tile, You could even use a scratch coat with steel or plastic mesh if the studs are a little flimsy even blocked up.

this would allow a new box for the Microwave for sparky to install...