The trickiest part for me is not getting kerdi fix all over everything when running the kerdi to the tub. If you get it somewhere you don't want it, I've found it's easier to let it dry and peel it off later

I did really like using the 2" boards for the tub deck I did last year, so much easier than using lumber and cement board. I'll keep using kerdi board for those situations, but I'll stick with the membrane for walls

- Rich

 

The flex thing was my biggest concern with the boards.

I liked the Kerdi membrane over drywall.

Drywalling the entire surround would be easier than transitioning to cement board anyway. 👍

 

The schluter stuff is great, and all I've used since being out on my own. The last bathroom I did I decided not to use kerdi board due to a couple things I haven't liked about it - going back to cover the screws and it flexes, even after tile is installed. This tub got green board walls with sheets of kerdi over it, i felt like it went much faster that way. I still use the pre fab niches.

Shower pans are fantastic, completely customizable

- Rich

 

What do you Go Board guys use for seams and nails/screws?? And how long of a cure??
Thanks

 

Fiber tape and thinset on cement board seams for me. Tape everything the day you install it with fast set, then redgaurd right over it all for an overnight cure.

Kerdi the next day and you are ready for tile.

 

Never used kerdi board I usually float my showers but the outfit I'm with calls for a lot of redgard. I laughed at first but I had a job with 15 showers that needed to be inspected by the city. I started the flood test but the job got completely shut down the next day. Long story short I didn't get much sleep for the next week knowing the showers were full of water and was shocked to find not one of them leaked. That said if it were my house I'd probably use the kerdi system lol.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

https://youtube.com/c/schlutersystems1

Tom

 

As Andrew pointed out————always do a flood test 24 hours minimum.

I can start tiling the same day by using a ledger system. Hot glue and a Kerdi board cut off.

When using Kerdi board I rarely band the corners of the board. I slice the board, cutting through only one face sheet, snap the board and place the snap in the corner.

The pan gets banded And cornered unless in installing Ditra Heat on the pan, then I’ll over cut the Kerdi 2" each side, I still corner this installation.

I patch cover the washers and screws as I tile up most times.

Tom

 

AustinDB got me on Schluter about 5 or 6 years ago, never looked back. Use their products on slabs, subfloor, showers, wet areas, etc...

I dont do tile, so no help there

 

Mud floor, Kerdi fabric and drain on floor, GoBoard for the walls. Still.not going to tile in a day regardless...need to do a flood test on all showers IMHO.

 

I'm a big go board fan.

 

I liked the Kerdi system

I want try it on my next shower.

Aside from the speed and convenience, do you feel the Schluter systems are more durable?

 

If you're set on cement board, you can do Kerdi over the cement board. This will allow you to set the same day, for that matter the Schluter system allows you to use plain old drywall in a shower, just Kerdi over it.

There is no difference in the skill required to do either system.

Tom

 

I would love to chat with you about it. I’ve seen your tile work and it’s top notch.

I spent quite a bit of time at my tile guys place today, and he ran me through the whole Schluter system.

It certainly seems convenient. Humping foam boards upstairs sure beats Hardi.

And it seems to be an excellent system for less skilled laborers.

But I’m wondering about what would make it a better, as in more durable and/or longer lasting installation than cement board and a waterproof membrane, especially for someone who has a higher skill level.

 

I can set a Schluter shower system with niche and be tiling the same day. Red Guard this is not possible.

I carried a 5x5x10 Schluter shower system up a 3 story exposed rear porch in Chicago, in December, 2 trips. I was grateful the owner supplied all the tile and setting mortar.

A cost analysis when I was doing tile work more showed the Schluter system cost less than 10¢ more per square foot.

If you are planning to try one of these systems, Schluter has great info both in training and videos. I also have a lot of tips for you.

Tom

 

Redguard and cement board is hillbilly compared to Schluter.

 

Id be interested to know why you think that. 👍

 

I sleep well at night using kerdi and Detra, five years and no problems!

 

Redgard rather

Mike

 

Last one I did I did the shower pan the old way with a sand/cement mix.

Then redguard over the whole then, the kerdi membrane over that.

I want that sucker to last 100 years without a leak.

Did kill a lot of time though.

I love both kerdi and ditra, and price them into ever tile job. I've never used the foam board stuff though for making pans and alcoves, but I don't do a lot of tile.

 

Just sayin: I’ve seen Redford fail more than once

Mike

 

I have probably done about fifteen or so showers. Years ago it was mud base w rubber liner and plastic on the walls under the cement board. that was in the late 80’s. Then I went to Kerdi over cement board. Something about drywall in the shower I didn’t like. Now I have been using Kerri board. You still have to band all the seams and corners but it’s a lot less mess than troweling loose mix thin set on the walls. I have only done the Schluter base and Redgaurd walls once or twice because the customer wanted it that way to save a few bucks. It is not my go to method.
nicko

 

I have done a shower or two with a Schluter base and drain and cement board and Red Gaurd walls. No niche but solid surface corner shelf’s that I make. I used Kerdo band around the base and two inches up the wall and then Red Gaurd over the band and up the walls.

nicko

 

Less error, supposedly, even by seasoned folks. so...

1) ease and speed. 2) not enough folks pre-slope anyway (but damned if they don't all claim to do it - just b.s..)... 3) you don't get a mortar bed "sponge" full of skank ...and where some portion of water within in the bed never gets over the bottom drain flange...and into teh weep holes..if they remembered to add some pea gravel (which they often forget.)...and 4) the floor might feel a little warmer that over just mortar in a basement.

On the other hand...don't put a pebble floor over foam...it'll get soft spots. Need 2x2's,at least.