[banderson3nc]

If you find your local power wash supply company you can get the chemicals for a better price. We buy Oxalic and Sodium Hydroxide by the 50# bags. Outside of mixing your own sodium hydroxide stripper mix you can order online HD80. That is hands down the strongest stripper of that type out there. Be very careful because it will strip paint off the house. You can mix it to the strength you need. A lot of the big box strippers are not strong enough for the tougher strip jobs.
If you mix your own oxalic add a little bit of dawn or similar detergent, it acts as a surfactant that helps the product stick to the decking.

Feel free to call me if you need more help

 

[TG Deck]

If you find your local power wash supply company you can get the chemicals for a better price. We buy Oxalic and Sodium Hydroxide by the 50# bags. Outside of mixing your own sodium hydroxide stripper mix you can order online HD80. That is hands down the strongest stripper of that type out there. Be very careful because it will strip paint off the house. You can mix it to the strength you need. A lot of the big box strippers are not strong enough for the tougher strip jobs.
If you mix your own oxalic add a little bit of dawn or similar detergent, it acts as a surfactant that helps the product stick to the decking.

Feel free to call me if you need more help

Good post. :thumbsup:

 

[artinall]

Would work top down. Depending on the kind of stain you decide on, (whether it is a semi/penetrating type, or others that can 'gunk').

I would cover the wood or skirting under where you are working and mask lower and other areas that are not to get finished (and areas not to be done right away) to prevent too much of a buildup. Wiping wet drip spots as you go.

Would also use a right sized stick-sponge for tight spots like this one http://www.referwork.com/projects/how_seal_deck.htm and for staining the inside of nooks. Have had enough stain run down my arms, and I'm not thrilled with exposing it to my skin anyway.

On the stripping issue, if at all possible, and without too much effort, I'd see if I could locate what was applied previously since some manufacturers make strippers. Oxalic wash could help as already pointed out and too strong of bleach solution can dry the wood out.

Pressure washing can rip even the hardest wood. Have had the best luck pressure washing on flat floor areas.

Best advice I can give: is after stripping and cleaning - wet the deck down to make sure you have a 'consistent' appearance to start with before applying. I've seen where great looking clean jobs contain blotches after chemical staining. Where apparently something was spilt. At which point it is almost too late to correct.

 

[TG Deck]

...........
Best advice I can give: is after stripping and cleaning - wet the deck down to make sure you have a 'consistent' appearance to start with before applying. I've seen where great looking clean jobs contain blotches after chemical staining. Where apparently something was spilt. At which point it is almost too late to correct.

I've also experienced that, and I think it was from not keeping it 'wet'.
Hence the film/blotching.
Another power wash needed.

Thanks.:thumbsup:

 

[TG Deck]

Kind of an update on this project...

We've had a lot of rain over here, so this is put off for another week.
I don't want to blast, clean, strip and then have to wait 2 weeks for it to dry out - would have to wet clean it again. There are a few tall pines by the deck.

I'm horrible about taking pics, but will try to do so.
All info posted is very appreciated.

 

[Bill Weaver]

If most of the finish has worn off there is nothing to strip off.

Don't use a power washer.

Don't spray it on.

Try a small test area and give it an Oxalic wash then put some finish on , I use TWP 100 series, there is a good chance that is all you need.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com

You do need to use a power washer. I think it's like a scientific fact.

Use F-18 Wood Cleaner and Stripper. Mix it a low dilution it won't take much to strip that deck, your mostly just cleaning the grey dead wood off the deck. You can put 4 ounces per gallon in a pump sprayer and allow it to dwell for 45 minutes. During this long 45 minutes use your pressure washer and a high pressure tip to mist the deck from a distance when it starts to dry.

After the 45 minutes dwell time come back with pressure washer and clean it with a 40 degree tip keeping back around 1 foot depending on your pressure washer. If you applied the chemicals right, it shouldn't take much effort at all to remove that layer of ugliness, exposing nearly new looking wood. You WILL have to hit EVERY SQUARE INCH of the deck with the pressure washer...thoroughly cleaning and rinsing.

Again let me emphasize, You MUST use a pressure washer to properly clean a deck. However you allow the chemicals to do the heavy lifting. If it is taking you any effort at all to remove the ugly wood, you didn't use enough cleaner, or didn't let it dwell long enough.

 

[John Hyatt]

I should have put that another way.

In the hands of most, like my very own self , the power washer is a dangerous tool. It can leave fan marks, rough up the wood, actually blow parts of the decking like knots clear to the next zip code and it always forces water into the decking and that =

BAD.

Long ago, like 100 years in a dog's life , I borrowed a spray rig from a refinish Contractor bud it being complete with a canister and handle control. It could be filled with oxalic so a person could clean the deck and switch over to the oxalic thus saving a step.

Sounds perfect Right ? well it was for Him, not for Me. Even with the widest fan he had and the lowest pressure setting I made a mess of the 2x4 WR cedar for a couple of hours until I finally was able to come up with an in tolerance surface, but even then the decking was fuzzed up with little whiskers when it dried and drying its self took forever. TWP 116 did not look too bad after the second coat but that was IT for Me.

A Janitor friend recommended a floor machine, Ya know a buffer , and that is what I have been using. It's a small one, 16'', using a scrub pad on the block and different colors depending on the finish being removed works for me. Combined with a 5 gal mix of oxalic rolled on in it's path my little army surplus machine takes it off while I just run the thing back and forth. I hand brush the rails.

There are Many advantages doing it this way. I know you power washer Guys love all that water and blasting away at it, all that mess and will never change. I still think a PW is for brick and driveways not wood.

John :cowboy: www.deckmastersllc.com

 

[The Coastal Craftsman]

I use a pressure washer on every deck. 3000 psi with green or white tip depending on how bad deck is but I go across the grain not with it. I find that across the grain leaves no marks where as with the grain at the end of the swing/movement on the wand there's a point the stream is static for a second and it's enough time to over clean that area and you are left with marks every few feet.

 

[Ohio painter]

Sme interesting points of view regarding the power washer. They certainly can do a lot of damage. BC Construction - interesting about going across the grain, I try to lift the wand as I go back and forth so I avoid that extra clean mark you mention.
I do agree with a deck has to be power washed, additional chemical if stripping is the goal. I have two decks washed and waiting, I like for them to dry for about a week before I think about staining them.
All exterior paint jobs usually get a power wash, I am no longer painting wood siding if I can help it, others can have that work.

When the occasional wash job comes along (my existing customers only) I will brush scrub vinyl or aluminum siding etc, the power washer is only for a light rinse - seen too much vinyl messed up by a power washer.

 

[NYgutterguy]

Just stripped my cedar deck last week. Used a stripper and the least powerful electric home cheapo power washer and it worked perfect. Did zero damage to the 11 year old soft cedar View attachment 173489 View attachment 173497

 

[NYgutterguy]

....

 

[NYgutterguy]

Found another

 

[redwood]

I use a pressure washer to rinse, not to clean, especially on softwoods.

http://bethepro.com/ultimate-guide-for-how-to-stain-a-deck/

 

[SelectDecks]

Rather than start a new thread I'll just ask here - what's the best water repellent for syp kdat? We don't stain/treat but the kdat has to be done before install.

HO wants to maintain the natural look so don't need a stain, just repellent - thanks guys

 

[TG Deck]

We power washed and cleaned these decks.
Only a few small areas needed strong chemical stiripping.
We got lucky.
Power washing (2 units) brought this puppy back to life, and the HO is pleased.
Just been dancing between the rain days since, ready to restain it.
All advice appreciated.