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Capping ridge into a gable side

9.9K views 15 replies 3 participants last post by  randyblair  
#1 ·
We recently replaced a roof and had issues running the ridge cap from the garage into the gabel side of the main house. I am not confident on how I was told to do this. Does anyone have any info on doing this or possibly some links to a website that might shed a little light on this problem? How far do you run the caps on the main house roof to prevent leaks?
 
#3 ·
Thank you for the reply and the information pictures. I went through all the albums but can’t quite find the info on the scissor lock step flashing that ends on the gable. This is the area I think I have wrong. The house is not drywalled yet and we had a couple of driving rains and I see dampness on the plywood right at the intersection of the ridge and gable roof. If you have any other info on this I would appreciate it.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for taking the time to help out. I was shown how to do this and I am pretty sure I did what I was supposed to. Some pictures of the way you do this would be great. I would like to get this leak stopped. I was quite impressed with the work you do though. Very nice jobs..
 
#6 ·
THE STEP FLASHING SHOULD BE BACKED UP BY FELT OR ICE +WATER SHIELD TURNED UP THE WALL,run the steps w/each shingle course to the ridge,from the ridge ,cut the excess at the angle and bend down on other side, come up the other side the same way,when you reach the ridge cut and bend the step the same way,remove it and install sealant at juncture,set step into sealant,then put flat piece of step on wall w/triangle for roof lines cut out,seal to wall w/silicone sealant,take 1 cap shingle;cut away the exposure leaving tar line at the bottom,set w/tar strip side flush to wall,then install 2-3 caps going away from wall before ridge vent etc.-typically you would cap facing away from walls,or from less windy side into high wind area-sorry no pics of this
 
#7 ·
Good written explanation God. :thumbup: I run the top courses over the ridge, for the last 12", install the opposing steps, scissor-locked, then run ridgevent to the wall. (I really must get a pic of that.) those last, opposing steps get nailed at the same time! You can't install one from the first side, and expect to lock the one from the other side. It won't happen! :no:
 
#9 ·
Quoting my earlier post. Here is my ridge termination detail showing the cut and uncut tops.
Image


This is the same, whether or not I'm terminating at the rake, or a gable wall. THen, I run the vent edge to edge. At a gable, I stop the vent short about an inch from the wall, then run the cap to the wall.

Sorry for the delay in a detailed explanation, but I've been working 7 days a week, and burning both ends of the candle.
 
#8 ·
I loaded step flashing details into an album. You're interested in all but the 1st. 4 pics, which are of chimney pieces.

http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=710&file=5360&s=0

The last pic shows how the vertical portion is locked together. Just before scissor-locking, a dab of your favorite caulk or gutter sealer can be used. WHen they are properly locked in place, no light can be seen at the joint. Then, you nail them to the roof. It's vertually bulletproof, and positively leak-proof.
 
#10 ·
Thank you very much for all the detail put into the explanations. You guys are all a great help. Hopefully I can someday return the favour. There was a small issue with how I did the job. I will be modifying what I did and get back to you on the results. Thanks again
 
#12 ·
It's absolutely the RIGHT way. I confess that I don't always do it. But when I don't, I 'overbend' the tops for a tight fit, and make sure they apex properly.
That 'joint' isn't visible on a valley and shouldn't see water. I run the shingles 'long' there to cover the 'joint'. Is that clear as mud? :laughing:
Then, when I cap a dorma, I clip that cap's corners like you would the first cap on a hip, then slide it under the 'long' shingle that already covers the joint.