Always 18 gauge for us. And I try to fire through the trim and hit the bottom plate of the wall to help pin everything together nice and tight.

Although it occurs to me that if you ever wanted to put new flooring in, it would be nice to be able to just pop off the shoe instead of the whole trim. And that would be easier if it were just tacked down independently.

 

18 guage, 1" or 1 1/4" Base should already be nailed on securely, not need to use long nails.

 

Same for us.

 

I'm pinning it now. Is that wrong? Seems to be holding fine.

Edit...for hardwood shoe only.

 

I wouldn't say it's necessarily wrong, but myself, - - I only use pins in when it's in conjunction with glue. In other words, I'm only using the pins to hold something long enough for the glue to set . . .

 

Yup, I do that elsewhere.

As for the shoe, I just keep the fasteners a little bit long. Basically, I got hooked after doing some prefinished stuff on some tight budget jobs. Not that it makes it right, but anyway... Now I'm attached to this new habit...we'll see.

 

I like to get my 15ga nail low enough in the base so when I run the shoe it gets covered and then run 1" or 1.25" 18ga brads for the shoe.

 

I do the same thing, I will get my base nails low enough to be covered by the shoe. I'm usually the one puttying and painting.

Then 1 1/4" nails for the shoe.

Dave

 

Thanks for all the responses. Just wanted to see what SOP was.

 

If it's a true shoe 1/2" thick max, I use a 23 gauge 1-3/8" pin.

If it's actually quarter round, I use 18 gauge, 1-9/16" brad. But I try to avoid using quarter round in lieu of shoe. It just ain't right. Given a choice, I'd rather use a modified stop for that application than quarter round.

 

I've been debating on getting a pinner, had wondered how many guys use them for shoe. I don't do much that I need a pinner for but I'm always looking for an excuse for a new tool.

 

For me, it was kind of like when I debated to get a multi-master. Once I got it, I wondered what took me so long and learned that maybe I didn't have the imagination I thought I did. Great tool.:thumbup:

 

All tiny mouldings I use 23 gauge pin-nailer and on my finished cabinet cornices the same pin-nailer.
[URL="http://shiptonconstruction.com[/URL]

 

Just an informational post for you guys;

Shoe mould's main purpose is to cove the joint between the bottom of the baseboard and the flooring.

That joint will move some with seasonal moisture. Especially with ballon framing.

For this reason, shoe should (in the traditional fashion) should be secured NOT to the baseboard but diagonally into the sub floor. This will allow the base to move behind the shoe and the shoe will stay tight to the floor.

Bob

 

This can depend on what flooring is going down if it is a engineered/laminate floating floor, or around cabinet and island kickers and for newer home securing it to the vertical material behind is better.

http://shiptonconstruction.com

 

I like to figure that the depth of penitration is at least equal to the thickness of material being nailed.
1/2 thick base + 1/2 drywall = 1 1/2 nail minimum.

 

This can depend on what flooring is going down if it is a engineered/laminate floating floor, or around cabinet and island kickers and for newer home securing it to the vertical material behind is better.

http://shiptonconstruction.com

As long as you are aware that attaching to the base does not allow shoe to remain covering the base/floor joint with seasonal movement. Flooring material makes no difference.

 

Seasonal movement in really old homes that were build under different codes maybe. Today the floor trusses are engineered. The only lift is from roof trusses that can make interior walls raise and that does not happen to often. I guess here in Calgary we never get those problems because houses are not over a 100 years.

Basement floors are a different story all together...:thumbsup:

With todays new floating floors its just a NO NO to nail into them.

http://shiptonconstruction.com

 

Which I was taught was 100% correct. Nailing shoe to the floor is wrong IMO. Most trim is paint grade around here, and I would rather the shoe move with the base and not with the floor.

If the shoe moves with the base, any opening will be "hid" due to the fact that its harder to see a dark line against the floor and the white shoe. Not only do the floors tend to be stained or natural finished wood, but the opening is harder to see due to the angle your viewing it at.

If the shoe moves with the floor, then a joint could open up between the painted shoe and painted base, cracking the finish and adding a nice, highly contrasting opening that is super easy to spot.

You need to re-read my post or old fart's post.

The shoe gets angle nailed to the subfloor, not the base or finish floor. This way it stays tight in both directions. The base can now move seasonally ( and it will) like a door panel.

No need for caulk here. Two flat surfaces. (Again, like a door panel)

This is time tested and it works.

 

You need to re-read my post or old fart's post.

The shoe gets angle nailed to the subfloor, not the base or finish floor. This way it stays tight in both directions. The base can now move seasonally ( and it will) like a door panel.

No need for caulk here. Two flat surfaces. (Again, like a door panel)

This is time tested and it works.

Sounds good in theory but unless your flooring guys are leaving a consistent 1 inch gap all the way around, I bet your nailing into the finish floor. Or your using a really shallow angle, in which case aren't you just nailing into the base then framing anyway?

 

Seasonal movement in really old homes that were build under different codes maybe. Today the floor trusses are engineered. The only lift is from roof trusses that can make interior walls raise and that does not happen to often. I guess here in Calgary we never get those problems because houses are not over a 100 years.

Basement floors are a different story all together...:thumbsup:

With todays new floating floors its just a NO NO to nail into them.

http://shiptonconstruction.com

I don't install floating floors and wasn't really commenting on them, but I agree nailing into that flooring is a bad idea.

My post says nail I to the subfloor.

 

And if you need shoe with slab on grade??? I don't think your brads are doing that subfloor!

 

We don't do shoe much out here, but when I do install it's with my 21 gauge brad nailer.

 

Yes nailing diagonally into the sub-floor was the traditional why of putting shoe base on for years and the standard procedure for installation. What is clear there is many ways to install shoe base because of the different job specs. Like SuperiorHIP mentioned paint grade materials would be different because caulking all painted areas is standard. Stained baseboard on a solid hardwood or on a tiled floor I use the a 21 gauge pin nailer fixed to the base these days because its cleaner and neater to finish than the bigger 18 gauge brad nailers we used for years. I feel shoe base does not need to be stressed its a small moulding that looks better over time if placed on securely with a purpose of covering gaps between floor and base, but not as a clamping system to prevent movement happening.

http://shiptonconstruction.com

 

18g 1" or 1 1/4 whatever I have for shoe. I glue my base and shoot to studs and plate. The shoe only needs to be secure no need to hit studs