[blacktop]

A large dust pan works well to catch the dust. Or bucket.


I couldn't imagine using a router freehand .. Unless your a steady ..Steady arty hand at It.

 

[overanalyze]

Circle jig on the Rotozip if it's a hole for a remodel can.

 

[Calidecks]

A large dust pan works well to catch the dust. Or bucket.


I couldn't imagine using a router freehand .. Unless your a steady ..Steady arty hand at It.

Exactly!

It's not rocket surgery! :laughing:

 

[blacktop]

I'm gettin one of these!!!

 

[gbruzze1]

I'm gettin one of these!!!







https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62_2dMwF91o

I used to have an awesome vac attachment for my rotozip. The rotozip that came with the 50' cord. Then that rotozip crapped out, and they don't make that same one anymore. Had to get a new model, and the old vac attachment doesn't fit it, and the new one is a POS!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[kwunch]

The cans come with a template to trace as well.

I like to break the paper with the compass, keyhole saw up to the line. On the off chance that someone removes the shroud they see a clean cut. Probably a waste of 10 seconds, but there's no tracing and at least I know the cut is clean.

And if it's new sheetrock I smack the needle through the drywall so it pokes out the back (the Marshalltown compass has an adjustable, long needle and a body built to take a hammer tap or two), compass the back, tap the hole out with the hammer, no saw needed and no extra dust.

 

[OVContractor]

I use a few different methods depending on the specific application, most of which have been mentioned.

I find hole saws work great if I can preplan my lighting layout with daisy chains. The new 1/2" thick IC rated LED potlights let me run the lighting circuit based on a planned layout, hang the drywall then shoot the laser to get perfectly straight runs. The trick with the hole saw is not putting a small hole in the drywall to pull the wires through temporarily. 9 times in 10 that small hole (1/2") is where you want to eventually place the centering bit of your hole saw and you end up doing the "saw teeth on the ceiling" dance. Similarly, I find that hole saws work great for predrilling the pieces of drywall used on the underside of a bulkhead before install (if the bulk head is getting lighting).

For pre-installed potlights in new construction housing, the rotozip is the way to go. The vaccum attachment works well with my trigger controlled shop vac (Turbo II) and dust is kept to a minimum when used in a finished space.

For one or two holes, this kit from Klein:
http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/adjustable-hole-saw/adjustable-hole-saw

works great! The dust boot catches most of the debris and being able to drill holes up to 7 inches comes in handy. I really like using this tool with the new Kerdi board as well. It makes short work of cutting out access holes for mixer valves and leaves a clean edge

 

[Donquardo]

Is there a circle cutter attachment for the dewalt 20v cut out tool?

I either use a plunge saw or an old dremel tool with a circle cutter attachment that I keep in my drywall box.

Been using my 20v oscillating multi tool for straight cuts.