I know there are a lot of hammer threads on here, but I have a really specific question that I haven't been able to get anywhere with. For school next year I need a 22oz.-28oz. smooth face framing hammer, the first one that came to mind was estwing but I was wondering if you guys could throw some other options out their that fit this criteria that you have either liked or hated!
Best Smooth Face Framing Hammer?
1 reading
Grant9454
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
Thats probably why I started :laughing:
I just have used a waffle head for framing. When im framing I grab the framer.
Joined
·
6,292 Posts
Union school?
My favorite smooth faced hammer is a milled face hammer :thumbup:
My favorite smooth faced hammer is a milled face hammer :thumbup:
Joined
·
589 Posts
When I did the school portion of my apprenticeship you pretty much didn't need any of the tools they listed... The teacher said the list is basically there because you should have these tools at that point in your career. It would be beyond ridiculous for them not to accept a proper framing hammer under 22oz I bet they just don't want you showing up with a 16 ounce curved claw finishing hammer...
Thanks for the responses so far guys, the school I'm going to is just a technical college with a carpentry program its not the union apprenticeship program. As much as I would love to take a look at the stiletto hammers they are a little to expensive right now and would kill my tool budget. The vaughn hammers look really good and I also came a cross a Hart smooth face framer with a steel handle that looks a little more comfortable than the estwing.
he already stated the rules. states nothing about handle typeBut what if the rules say it must be steel handled? You must obey the rules at all cost no?
I have used alot of hammers in the last 20 years and the titanium stilletos /daluges i've had they just can't hang with a vaughn 23 oz cali blue. There is no replacement for displacement.
Joined
·
2,777 Posts
I love these hammer debates-----a hammer is like a tennis racket or a golf club---
The 'best' is what works well for your arm and swing----buy a good quality one to start and then see how it works for you---what is perfect for one carpenter might not be the best for you----
Back in the old hand nailing days, I used a Vaugn---worked well with my style--now? My hammer is used mostly to move things around and the air nailer drives the nails--
The 'best' is what works well for your arm and swing----buy a good quality one to start and then see how it works for you---what is perfect for one carpenter might not be the best for you----
Back in the old hand nailing days, I used a Vaugn---worked well with my style--now? My hammer is used mostly to move things around and the air nailer drives the nails--
I would go wood handle. The head weight is the same, but the overall hammer weight will be less than steel or fiberglass, so the swing will be more effective for driving a framing nail, and you arm will like it more too.
Smooth face hammers are not meat tenderizers like the milled faces are, so they won't tear the skin off as easily, but they are not flat faced either. The convex smooth surface of the smooth faced hammer will make contact with the nail head in one small area and stick to it as well as any new milled face hammer. The face will not be damaged from using hardened concrete nails like the milled face is. And once a milled face is worn smooth, it works like it was originally smooth anyway. If the hammer is making contact with the nail-head in more than one spot the sticking power is reduced exponentially by the increased striking area of the head face and is more likely to slide off and hit the wrong nail. So the transition time from new to worn smooth is the most dangerous to your fingers with the milled face hammer.
Also, a good technique to learn is to set the nails with a light glancing blow, or a shallow eliptical swat, that moves the hammer head away from the thumb and fingers during/after the strike. I find that holding the nail point off the surface a little helps set the nail also, by giving it a little punch speed before it meets the surface. The added space provides a little more overall escape room for those fond fingers and the smooth face will not grab the nail head sideways on the starter swat.
Keep a rhythm too. Three swings on a framing nail is not bad, two is better, and a light to-the-side tap to keep time while fumbling the next nail into position. The sound of money making framing music, nails a'popping and saws' a singing. :thumbup:
Cuss'n yo hammer, is not part of the song. :no:
Good luck in school!
...
Smooth face hammers are not meat tenderizers like the milled faces are, so they won't tear the skin off as easily, but they are not flat faced either. The convex smooth surface of the smooth faced hammer will make contact with the nail head in one small area and stick to it as well as any new milled face hammer. The face will not be damaged from using hardened concrete nails like the milled face is. And once a milled face is worn smooth, it works like it was originally smooth anyway. If the hammer is making contact with the nail-head in more than one spot the sticking power is reduced exponentially by the increased striking area of the head face and is more likely to slide off and hit the wrong nail. So the transition time from new to worn smooth is the most dangerous to your fingers with the milled face hammer.
Also, a good technique to learn is to set the nails with a light glancing blow, or a shallow eliptical swat, that moves the hammer head away from the thumb and fingers during/after the strike. I find that holding the nail point off the surface a little helps set the nail also, by giving it a little punch speed before it meets the surface. The added space provides a little more overall escape room for those fond fingers and the smooth face will not grab the nail head sideways on the starter swat.
Keep a rhythm too. Three swings on a framing nail is not bad, two is better, and a light to-the-side tap to keep time while fumbling the next nail into position. The sound of money making framing music, nails a'popping and saws' a singing. :thumbup:
Cuss'n yo hammer, is not part of the song. :no:
Good luck in school!
...
guess you didn't read the OP where he said it has to be 22-28 oz.
Joined
·
172 Posts
The smooth face rule kills some good hammers but definitely stay away from anything steel handled fiberglass is good but wood is better i would say Vaughan is the best choice , just go down to the local lumberyard or tool store and get a feel for them , whatever you do dont get something cheap because it will cost you in the long run and also the new harts suck they are make from cheap soft chinese steel . my personal choice is a 21 oz dalluge
I used Estwing 28 oz ,steel handled hammers for about 40 years for framing then saw a wood handled Estwing version a couple years ago and love it.The wood handle has a better feel to my hand being thicker and is a lot better on my old joints.Have used a few Vaughan's over the years and liked them too.
Get a quality hammer with a hickory handle.You joints will thank you down the road.
Get a quality hammer with a hickory handle.You joints will thank you down the road.
He don't need a 22 to 28 oz hammer for trim work.
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
