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Best Door Lock Installation Kit

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96K views 36 replies 26 participants last post by  tomhank  
#1 ·
I'm hoping some of you finish guys can help me out on this one

I'm looking for a door lock installation kit similar to this

Image


The one pictured above doesn't seem to get great reviews, but it also seemed like some people didn't know how to use it (like drilling the big hole before the small one etc)

The descriptions of them are also very unclear as to whether or not they'll work on deadbolts?

I've looked and looked for 3 things and can't seem to find them

1. descent quality kit
2. $50 and under (maybe more if it was worth it)
3. Works on deadbolts and knob locks
 
#10 ·
DemRem said:
I'm hoping some of you finish guys can help me out on this one

I'm looking for a door lock installation kit similar to this

The one pictured above doesn't seem to get great reviews, but it also seemed like some people didn't know how to use it (like drilling the big hole before the small one etc)

The descriptions of them are also very unclear as to whether or not they'll work on deadbolts?

I've looked and looked for 3 things and can't seem to find them

1. descent quality kit
2. $50 and under (maybe more if it was worth it)
3. Works on deadbolts and knob locks
I got that dewalt one, its good for what it is, but if I had to do 20-30 doors I'd def invest in the kick set or portercable one
 
#11 ·
I've used the snot out of that yellow Dewalt lock jig. For what it costs, it is easy to use and durable enough. If you're not careful, you can be out of alignment by a 1/16" from one side of the door to another. Usually because of the door edge bevel.

I also have the classic engineering kit, which is top notch, unbeatable.

My basic premise is, if it's a rental property with hollow core doors, the Dewalt is just fine.

If it's a house full of custom solid doors, I make sure to have the classic engineering kit on hand.
 
#15 ·
I use the Dewalt for dead bolts on metal skinned doors. They charge $75 for a deadbolt hole. So after the first hole its paid for and making money.

I got a used PC door kit and it sprinters the door on the back side as the bit comes out. The plastic is wore out and there is slop when the bit comes though. The classic jig is next on my list as its built with metal instead of plastic.
 
#18 ·
I do bore from both sides, I just let the mandrel bit mark the second side. Fostner bit, mark and bore from both sides.

The Templaco is a very nice kit. The only thing I don't like about it is how the strike/bolt templates attach. Leaves 2 holes to deal with. I've made copies of the bolt templates, but they are held on with clamps.

Tom
 
#19 ·
Core before you bore
Why would you drill for the throw before the cylinder?
I have allways carryed the Kwikset jig just incase you run across the odd ball 5" backset.

The Schlage imo is the best, but its very expensive and you would have to order it through a ingersol rand vendor.

I do love my schlage jig for drilling through holes for cylindrical locks but residential guys usually only deal with tubular locks.
 
#26 ·
I could be wrong but my kwikset is the only one ive ever seen with a 5" backset allthough ive only installed 2 locks with a 5" back sets thus far.

For me its just not worth buying a mortising machine for mortise body lock sets most door manufactures prep for 86ed so the occasional slab its better to do by hand

This cyl lock boring jig im sure is the same for most carpenters its better to do with out

although i cant live with out my pc porta-plane
 
#27 · (Edited)
I bought this Templaco about 8 years ago. Surprised to see it is now $399 retail! I paid $280 new. Has more than paid for itself. Great simple design. Only have to sharpen the bit occasionally.

http://www.templaco.com/html/product.asp?id=225&mode=Bore+Master+Kits

I also use the Templaco router templates. Adds enough precision, speeds up the installation and is consistent.

The only time I found a boring jig worthless was for this 18" funky backset.
 

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#31 ·
SmallTownGuy said:
OK, I'll bite - so how'd you do it - the 18" puppy I mean....
It was part of an existing installation in a 1952, "modern" 36" front door. New HO wanted to update. I sold her on the fact that not only does having the lockset in the center of the door look odd, it also prevents a person from having any leverage in opening/closing the door. Each mechanical extension added resistance and a potential point of failure in the future. She agreed and I installed a standard 2-3/4 using the plug I cut out as a filler in the old hole. Putty, paint, done.

My solution was to not do it, but if I had to... drilling out the 1" latch with a 6" bit plus 12" extension and a square/level against the drill is probably how I would have done it.

Noteworthy is the fact that it is doable and was functional for 60 years. I have to respect the master craftsman that installed it back then without the fancy jigs we have today.
 
#32 ·
Dewalt door "junk" jig



Lots of Dewalt stuff is really good; however, this door jig is junk. Put the $50-bucks towards a good one. I bought the Dewalt and found that the holes are inaccurate. And yes, I'm using it "right." It's just not a quality product. Right from the beginning I noticed the hole placement is inaccurate and I have to drill the 1-inch hole by marking it out with a tape measure and pencil. I've done about a dozen doors and the tabs that tighten against the door skin are missing. Now I'm buying a Kwikset and I will have a tool for life.
 
#34 ·
i hate when I stumble into these random threads and now all of a sudden I gotta go spend 400 bucks on another tool... :laughing::laughing:


Oh well, this is something I will get my money out of. I have never even seen such nice kits. The time I'll save and the fact I'll never need another again is worth it to me. Now I just gotta decide which kit templaco or classic engineering :thumbsup: