[Waskin]

As far as method would it be good to…
Keep temp adjustables in place but out of way. Saw cut jackhammer concrete. Dig big/deep hole. Tie steel so it’s like a pole itself with 3-4 L bent rods with bottoms sitting on dobies or rocks
(long as rod ain’t in dirt)
Suspend pole 1/3 length into hole with steel going inside it. Fill footing hole with concrete and into steel pole as to be monolithic. Document it all. Get paid and come back a month or so later after mud has cured to take down temp poles.
Or frame temp walls and stuff.

I ask cuz I don’t know.
I imagine posts not only need to support load, but also sheer load and uplift for tornados 🤷

 

[greg24k]

In my State most Archtitects aren't competant to practice structual design...
Architect draws pretty picture...Pro Engineer designs working plans & specs of possible....

Not all architects are ignorant...but many are. Some proudly.....

True to a point about some architects, but basement girders involve basic load calculations, most of which are floor loading factors and DL of partitions, etc, and based on tributary load factors. Also, many architects work with structural engineers for more complicated designs, which include shear walls, etc. If they are not experienced enough, they require an engineer's involvement.
This is a basic home, with a cinder block foundation and rough-saw cut lumber. This home is dated to around the 1920s-1950s, with a plank subfloor, and not much engineering was used in residential construction at that time.

 

[3rd4thGEN]

True to a point about some architects, but basement girders involve basic load calculations, most of which are floor loading factors and DL of partitions, etc, and based on tributary load factors. Also, many architects work with structural engineers for more complicated designs, which include shear walls, etc. If they are not experienced enough, they require an engineer's involvement.
This is a basic home, with a cinder block foundation and rough-saw cut lumber. This home is dated to around the 1920s-1950s, with a plank subfloor, and not much engineering was used in residential construction at that time.

Poured footings....some time latter dug out_ underpinned.....or addition(s)
Hvac work crap...ditto plumbing.
Use treated plywood behind electrical panels spaced outward on treated lathes.
Old crete constantly outgassing water vapour.= corroded electric panel & guts.
Draw up staged plan to achieve to code structure/ MEP....ONE step at a time

Never install furnace or water heater / appliances on floor of basement that can flood....8 - 12 " allows homeowners to get sump working/ borrow generator....etc.
Cheaper then replacing electric devices.
Where is drain of water heater expansion valve?

 

[greg24k]

Poured footings....some time latter dug out_ underpinned.....or addition(s)
Hvac work crap...ditto plumbing.
Use treated plywood behind electrical panels spaced outward on treated lathes.
Old crete constantly outgassing water vapour.= corroded electric panel & guts.
Draw up staged plan to achieve to code structure/ MEP....ONE step at a time

Never install furnace or water heater / appliances on floor of basement that can flood....8 - 12 " allows homeowners to get sump working/ borrow generator....etc.
Cheaper then replacing electric devices.
Where is drain of water heater expansion valve?

Try sending everything you listed here to the homeowner, along with an invoice attached, and see if you get lucky and get paid for it.
Good luck

 

[3rd4thGEN]

Try sending everything you listed here to the homeowner, along with an invoice attached, and see if you get lucky and get paid for it.
Good luck

It is visual clues your customer is a bottom feeder....
Be polite ... back away unless you are desperate.....give them you worst competitors' biz card.

If owner is legitimate, you could form a multiple year plan to upgrade the home to average.... have work for a decade +.