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How many nails in YOUR door casing?

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custrel

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just got done with a small job setting pre-hung doors and installing the casing in five town houses.

I had a couple of items to finish up, figured I'd only be there an hour or two tops, when the GC tells me I'm not nailing the casing on correctly.

Apparently, the correct way to nail on door casing is a brad nail every 8" through the casing into the frame, and a finish nail every 16" through the casing into the buck. So a grand total of about 75 nails (50 brads and 25 finish) for every door - just for the casing.

The GC is a good friend of my wife's so to stay on good terms I went back and nailed off the casing they way the GC wanted it. When it was done it looked like someone had gone crazy with a shotgun. I feel sorry for the painter who will have to fill all the holes.

I've just never seen that many nails in used in trim.

My philosophy is to use only as many nails as necessary to secure the trim. Fewer holes, especially in finished wood, takes less time to fill and looks better IMO.

What about you? How many nails do you typically use to attach trim and casing? Do you nail it off every couple feet, every foot, every inch?
 
#4 ·
Thats gotta suck for the painters.

To tell you the truth I use the least amount possible and still leave the jamb and casing well secured. I never thought about formulating spacing between fasteners.
 
#7 ·
BKFranks said:
You put nails where you need them and about every 16". The painters are going to complain next and tell the GC they want more money for filling all the extra holes.
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Hey BK. Have you ever been to a job where the painters are ecstatic to see there to the finish (carpentry) ?
 
#8 ·
I normally drop a finish nail every 14-16" through the casing in to the framing and nail all miters from the side at the top.
Jam, throught the "stop" at the corners and split the differance and add shims and nail. Then 18" up the jamb both sides every builder I have ever worked work with likes it.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Roberts Ren said:
I normally drop a finish nail every 14-16" through the casing in to the framing and nail all miters from the side at the top.
Jam, throught the "stop" at the corners and split the differance and add shims and nail. Then 18" up the jamb both sides every builder I have ever worked work with likes it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's pretty much how I usually do it. Never, ever had an issue until today.:laughing:
 
#14 ·
BKFranks said:
No, but why give them an extra reason to complain?
Click to expand...

Trust me, there are some painters who do appreciate a good finish carpenter. If you do clean work long enough next to a good painter he'll think of the next time some wannabe finish carpenter butchers a his paint job. :laughing:
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
world llc said:
WTF?!! did this guy learn in a class room or something? you should consult the painter and both of you should charge an extra $10/door for time and materials!!
Click to expand...

It was laughable. If I had known I was going to use so many nails in the casing, I wouldn't have had to use any in the frame to set the door!:laughing:
 
#16 ·
Well I just finished up installing a few doors. Let me count...............

Cassing to jamb got 18 gauge about every 10" and glued.

Cassing to frame got 16 gauge, 5 nails. Tops got 3.

Mitres glued and cross nailed with 18 gauge.
 
#18 ·
Another specification is that the cassing shall be set back 2.5mm, or 3/32" from the edge of the jamb.

On gov't work the finishing inspector actually has a gauge to chech this. It it isn't right on, you will be changing it.

I made myself a gauge, and pre-mark the jamb before I install the cassing.

When we install oak doors, we install the jamb with screws counter sunk behind the door stops, so there are no exposed nails. Painters love this.:clap:
 
#19 ·
katoman said:
Another specification is that the cassing shall be set back 2.5mm, or 3/32" from the edge of the jamb.

On gov't work the finishing inspector actually has a gauge to chech this. It it isn't right on, you will be changing it.
Click to expand...
3/16" to 1/4" in my neck of the woods.
 
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