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Best way to cut drywall for recessed lights?

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#23 ·
john91 said:
Anyone use a rotozip? I saw that come up quite a bit when I was researching beforehand. I have an oscillating tool, but can't see it being that useful for this task. Especially for circles.

Also, as for the recessed light housing. That lip that protrudes from the housing...it is just flush with the drywall right? As in I cut the hole, drop the light in, and it is flush with the ceiling correct?

Here is a pic.
Image
Click to expand...
Roto Zip would work great. Just a little dusty. :thumbsup:

 
#26 ·
I like the retro-fit cans in lieu of the new-contruction fixtures because it allows you to put the light exactly where you need it after the drywall is finished. Too many things can happen if your fixture is locked into one spot. You might think that the location is perfect while the room is being framed but it's something about how finished drywall can change your perspective.
 
#28 ·
Peter_C said:
I bought one of these kits from...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Quick-Cutter-Adjustable-Hole-Saw-53731/203828012

It works okay and comes with the catch trays. So far it has done everything I have asked and cut more remodel can light holes than I can remember. The key is to use a high speed two handled monster of a drill, yet go sloooow. Cordless...forget about it.
Click to expand...
With that one, high speed with very little pressure to keep it spinning.

I would still do remodel cans and a laser to line 'em up.
 
#29 ·
tedanderson said:
I like the retro-fit cans in lieu of the new-contruction fixtures because it allows you to put the light exactly where you need it after the drywall is finished. Too many things can happen if your fixture is locked into one spot. You might think that the location is perfect while the room is being framed but it's something about how finished drywall can change your perspective.
Click to expand...
In the areas I work, if it is new construction or open remodel they have be piped. The lights need to be in for the rough inspection.

Tom
 
#30 ·
Peter_C said:
I bought one of these kits from...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Quick-Cutter-Adjustable-Hole-Saw-53731/203828012

It works okay and comes with the catch trays. So far it has done everything I have asked and cut more remodel can light holes than I can remember. The key is to use a high speed two handled monster of a drill, yet go sloooow. Cordless...forget about it.
Click to expand...
With my hole saws I use nothing but a cordless drill. On the toothed hole saw spin it backwards a couple of revolutions then forward to cut the hole. With the abrasive, forward or backwards works equally.

Tom
 
#31 ·
Californiadecks said:
God, a key hole saw in one hand and a vacuum hose in the other, or your helper holding the vacuum. Let's not complicate this guys. I hate the hole saw. Made things harder, when a key hole will do. They sell a plastic cup for the hole saw in the electrical department at the depot. It's clear too so you can see and you don't have to ruin a basketball, if that's what you think you need. I've cut 100's of cans in literally.
Click to expand...
Key Hole creates the least amount of dust and does the least amount of scattering the dust through out the room. Pretty much can hold a drywall bucket under the saw and catch 90%.

And of course the Keyhole saws always start. Battery never dies, cord never comes unplugged, breakers never trip ......


JonM said:
Pros hang the new construction housing lights and drywall then cut the lights out with a Roto Zip :thumbsup:The edge of the round part of the housing is suppose to hang down 1/2" below the framing
Click to expand...
The messiest method under the sun. And the easiest to F/U the can and drywall.
 
#33 ·
I have the same one Peter_C has. Less than $30 and it stores neatly in my boxes. It does a good job catching the debris, but that also has to do with the installer.

biggest issue is making dead sure you aren't drilling overtop a joist. Sometimes I'll use a drywall saw and find the edge of the joist, then mark off of it for my center point. When using this method, I angle the drywall saw to cut shallow, so that it hits the joist before cutting to it (make sense?) so I don't overcut and can keep the can a tad away from the joist.
 
#34 ·
tjbnwi said:
With my hole saws I use nothing but a cordless drill. On the toothed hole saw spin it backwards a couple of revolutions then forward to cut the hole. With the abrasive, forward or backwards works equally.

Tom
Click to expand...
No cordless with the tool I use. It isn't a hole saw in the normal sense, and at least my brushless Makita drill doesn't like it. I have an old 1/2" Porter Cable hammer drill that has mass and power with a big side handle.

72chevy4x4 said:
I have the same one Peter_C has. Less than $30 and it stores neatly in my boxes. It does a good job catching the debris, but that also has to do with the installer.

biggest issue is making dead sure you aren't drilling overtop a joist. Sometimes I'll use a drywall saw and find the edge of the joist, then mark off of it for my center point. When using this method, I angle the drywall saw to cut shallow, so that it hits the joist before cutting to it (make sense?) so I don't overcut and can keep the can a tad away from the joist.
Click to expand...
Sometimes for locating them as close to the dimensions I desire, I will actually put them right up against the joist and screw the can in place with a drywall screw to the ceiling joist. Also do the same thing when replacing an existing non can light that was nailed to the joist. The regular remodel clips need a decent amount of side clearance otherwise.
 
#36 ·
john91 said:
How come? I have access to the attic and the new construction housings are $5 dollars cheaper. Is the convenience of not nailing into the joists worth $50?

Maybe I'm missing something?
Click to expand...
I can get 6 remodel cans for about 50.00. Yes I'll pay 5.00 more not to go in the attic. Absolutely! I'd pay 20 bucks more a can for that. But at 50 bucks for 6 it's small potatoes.

I put 56 in my home. It was nice not going in the attic. Attics out here are often 120-130 degrees.

No thank you! Again 50 bucks for 6 small potatoes.
 

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#38 ·
john91 said:
How come? I have access to the attic and the new construction housings are $5 dollars cheaper. Is the convenience of not nailing into the joists worth $50?

Maybe I'm missing something?
Click to expand...
$50.00 is cheaper that crawling around in the attic, moving insulation and tools and making up the wiring while hunched over knee deep in insulation.

Yes, to the remodeling cans----they are the right fixture for installing into existing drywall.
 
#40 ·
I also opt for the remodel cans when the drywall is already in. Time saved/less crawling around in the attic works for me. I'll spend the little extra any time knowing what I saved overall.

Keyhole saw for cutting the hole, it's just not that hard to do and easy to control dust. I have one of the Klein circle cutters, tried it on one job but was having a problem getting a hole as tight as I wanted for the remodel cans so I gave up using it :laughing:
 
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