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Who uses "hot mud" for entire rooms?

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#21 ·
I use 90 and 45 for whole houses. (Blue/white bags) But it takes time for the guys to really learn how to use it.

Much lies in how you mix it. Mix thick for filling holes and gaps, medium for taping and blocking at the same time, and thin for skimming.

Once it mostly sets up, run a knife over it to remove any ridges. Once it't dry, it sands like any other mud, when dry, in my opinion. The time you save with it equals $$$ at the end of the job.

Due to time saves, my guys take a room, and do all three coats one after another until they are done that room. Drop a fan, move to the next area. Next day all is dry and ready to sand.

I'll never go back to wet, slow, crumbly, shrinking, cracking, money-sucking ready-mix. Just my opinion, of course.

-TH
 
#22 ·
I use all Durabond 20,45,90 in the brown bags that easy sand:rolleyes: is crap to soft, as for doing whole rooms have been doing them for 21 years:thumbup: . And as for corners your telling me you can't pull both sides:laughing: one after the other, well you need to practice more I do both sides and I only use a 6" taping knife, Oh I have a couple of those corner trowels for my beginners:w00t: who can't do corners, but I think I used them one time and then threw them in my tool bag and they have been there ever since. I finish all my ceilings and walls with topping compound it's so much easier to sand, I can use my hand to sand with. I tape and bedcoat then my second coat is with a second batch of 90 then skimcoat with topping compound. let it set up over night and as long as the humidity is below 60% it drys nice and hard. if the humidity is up above 65% we will put a fan in the room to move the air.
 
#24 ·
I use brown bag dura-bond for first coat on my corner beads. With corners nailed and dura-bonded they will take a beating. Try peeling ultra-flex off when it is applied with brown bag. Impossible. Easy Sand, it peels right off. To make brown bag sand a little easier, start the batch with 1/3 Easy Sand (light wieght). I alway finish with a creamy bucket of USG green lid.
 
#26 ·
troubleseeker said:
None of the drywall contractors I know of will use hot mud for an entire job. They will bed with it, but always use regular mud on the finish coats. I know from personal experience that although the lightweight hot muds are "sandable" the don't sand anywhere as easily as regular mud, gumming up the sanding pad very quickly. Unless you are good with a mud knife, stay away from the old "Durabond" type mud. This stuff is like trying to sand plaster.
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Smooth finish work: We only use it for 1st and second coat. Light weight ready mix for last coat. Comes out better. Easier to sand.

Textured finish: Use all hot mud.

-That's how we do it now, after 21 years of doing drywall.
 
#27 ·
I can't begin to tell you how much $$$ hot mud has made me .....I made it myself years ago by adding plaster of paris to ready mix in a pinch when I didn't have any . Adding concrete setting activater will turn ready mix into hot mud also....the more you add the quicker the set. I LOVE HOT MUD.:clap:
 
#29 ·
Love hotmud... Hot mud for the first two coats... NO SANDING! Just a quick scrape with a knife, and it's ready to top. Then sand and go...:clap:
 
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#30 ·
Frankawitz said:
.............after we prime with block filler then spot out the room with M&H ready patch, then we sand the spackling then prime ........
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Hi, Im new here. Frankawitz, where do you buy M&H ready patch!!??

I used this stuff once before and really really liked the results for the job I was doing! Where I bought it previously, no longer carrys it.
In fact, I found this web site by searching the web for this stuff!

HELP! Do you have an old can or something to look at the producer? I cant find anything on the web....manufacturer, etc.

Anybody else see this stuff, or know where to buy it? Black and yellow can with a lid like a paint can. I believe it stated something about being a latex type patching compound.

Thanks! Great site!
Rob
 
#31 ·
Reading this thread I just want to comment, I worked for a company some years ago. When taping one guy was relegated to mixing hotmud while 2 or 3 others were busy applying it. The 'mixer' was set up with a couple of buckets of clean water, a bucket for dumping rinse water and a couple of clean buckets for the compound (20, 45, whatever at the time). We flew through taping like you wouldn't believe. The nice thing is the ones applying the mud wouldn't have to breake stride till lunch time or quitin time.

Also, we sponged it smooth. NO DUST! :clap:
 
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#32 ·
We use 45 and 90 on everything........

Traditionally a drywall finisher using machine tools would tape 1 day, bed the second,skim the third and so on.......
With 45 or 90 we always mesh everything than hand feed the mud box and bed the entire job the first day. I let the taper fall behind and tape angles by himself with the taping tube.....so at the end of day 1 we are always finished with the bed coat. When we skim, we use plus 3 and just pull it skin tight and it needs almost no sanding. On jobs where its less than 50 sheets, we just got 1 guy steady mixing 20 minute pan by pan with a mini mixer..............45 and 90 makes me money.......I love those 2 guys.:thumbsup:
 
#34 ·
Rob
You can pick up M&H Reday Patch in the Black and Orange can at most Home Depots and Lowes in the paint dept or check out SW or BM paint stores also carry it.

As for the cuts on your hands the Durabond will dry out your hands because of the Mica in the mix this is what makes it dry out it will remove all moisture from board mud and your skin, I use vasaline on my hands when they get really bad also have started wearing leather gloves or those new machinc type gloves that are nylon keep the hands out of the mud, ends of my fingers don't split, like having a deep paper cut more of a pain in the but. Then it hurts.
 
#38 ·
Nothing better than hotmud...If you know how to use it.
We've been using it for years. It does wonders. We even add accelerator which I love because once it sets for a few minutes, with accelerator
(USG Gypson Plaster Accelerator-comes in 1.5 lb container),
it's like play-doh. You can rub out the lap marks and manipulate it.
We use mesh tape on everything except angles. After taping angles hot mud can be used everywhere. We NEVER sand. Never. The stuff is that good. Although experience with it helps. We do whole houses and repairs with it. Love it. Oh, juggling pans is quick.... wash your hands once in a while. And keep the pans and knives clean.
 
#40 ·
We use hot mud, but only synco 90 as it sands way easier....some say they sand easy...but no...found that out the hard way. If we are pushed for time, we will tape normal, fill with hot mud, 10" box, and skim out with 12" box , sand and prime. DONE... I have done whole houses that way, works awesome.
 
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