[rock16]

Now that I see it better I think it calls for some really special flashing.

3" high min. under siding, extend 1" past the outer face of the blocking, create saddles to go over each joist and extend to nearly the bottom of the blocking in the corners where the joists meet the blocking.

Lot of work for a sheet metal guy.

Andy.

I agree something like this.

 

[ScipioAfricanus]

Nice detail Rock.

Andy.

 

[John Hyatt]

Way to Go Rock!!!

Thats about the only way I can see to make it happen. Flashing over the deck will help a little but not near enough.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com

 

[rock16]

Way to Go Rock!!!

Thats about the only way I can see to make it happen. Flashing over the deck will help a little but not near enough.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com

Pretty much just what ScipioAfricanus posted just in drawing form. I need to see a detail to wrap my head around it.

 

[KennMacMoragh]

Yeah, that means I'll have to fabricate it myself then take it to a metals shop and have it welded. I was hoping this wouldn't be such a pain. I can still picture water running down the sides of the joists and through the blocks even with saddles like that. Maybe it needs some bituminous tape in the crack.

 

[rock16]

Yeah, that means I'll have to fabricate it myself then take it to a metals shop and have it welded. I was hoping this wouldn't be such a pain. I can still picture water running down the sides of the joists and through the blocks even with saddles like that. Maybe it needs some bituminous tape in the crack.

A bead of caulk under the saddle isn't a bad idea.

I use a couple of local shops that can churn those out for about $15-$20 each. I have saddles made like that all the time for deckwall to wall intersections. You may already have the resources but if not I can PM you the info.

 

[Tom Struble]

you you can get the same results with flexwrap,welding not needed

 

[WNYcarpenter]

you you can get the same results with flexwrap,welding not needed

You don't think the material will break down over time if it's exposed?...Also could be a little unsightly on a 2nd story deck...

I like your method along with a Z flash sliced but not notched over the joists for added protection in suspect areas! Hadn't thought of it, I'll use it.

 

[Tom Struble]

i'm speaking about installing it under the siding/blocking,not over it

the only way thats going to be fixed is to start over

 

[WNYcarpenter]

i'm speaking about installing it under the siding/blocking,not over it

the only way thats going to be fixed is to start over

ahhh, I'm following now.

 

[Tom Struble]

i usually keep a small roll of it in my truck,works great for irregular flashing details and bonds very well to most clean surfaces and tenaciously to itself

 

[Tom M]

I still think if you pulled a plank, put a kerf into the bottom of the plank itself you will break any water roll back. Flash the house joint like you would any ledger and re assemble. Then if you sloped that plank and flashed above it you would keep water 5.5" away from the house and have triple protection. If the water is kept far enough away from the blocking you should be safe. If not, then I would remove each block flash,caulk and re install.

 

[Tom Struble]

and i still think assuming it's roll back is the wrong approach,Ive seen too many flashing over the top of paper installations to think the obvious solution is the right one

that blocking was probably put there so the siding would not have to cut around each joist,i think it needs to go and then the siding and paper could run thru the deck,no z flashing necessary,space the decking away from the house

 

[Chris@Sunrise]

and i still think assuming it's roll back is the wrong approach,Ive seen too many flashing over the top of paper installations to think the obvious solution is the right one

that blocking was probably put there so the siding would not have to cut around each joist,i think it needs to go and then the siding and paper could run thru the deck,no z flashing necessary,space the decking away from the house

That makes sense to Tom. I have had to put blocking in there though because of the way the decks were designed on the print. If you removed the blocking would you not still flash the individual joist?

 

[Tom M]

I can appreciate your view Tom. And I have done that as well but that opportunity has has passed and doing that creates an opportunity at every joist for something to go wrong. Then you have to allow the water your channeling around each joist to weep back out.

Its no easy task thats for sure and meticulous details are needed in either approach.

 

[Tom Struble]

That makes sense to Tom. I have had to put blocking in there though because of the way the decks were designed on the print. If you removed the blocking would you not still flash the individual joist?

absolutely using Rocks or a selfstick:thumbsup:maybe if you need the blocking it could be pulled further away from the wall

 

[Tom Struble]

doing that creates an opportunity at every joist for something to go wrong. .

but Tom that opportunity exist no matter what flashing detail you use

by eliminating all the horizontal breaks in paper and cladding save for each 1 1/2'' joist top and bottom will reduce the likelihood of failure significantly

 

[Tom Struble]

imho

 

[rock16]

The detail I posted is a newconstruction detail it is not drawn to go over the blocking. I would use vycore over the flanges of the saddle and integrate the saddle into the WRB. The blocking if required would go over it.
We have used a very-very similar detail on condo's many times and it holds up well.

 

[knucklehead]

It ain't near this complicated