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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We're looking into the Zip system for the roof sheathing instead of using OSB. The roof is on 2 ft. centers and we're wanting to know how stiff the Zip system would be on 2 ft. centers compared to 5/8" OSB. Anybody out there who's put Zip on a roof?
 

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I recently used some 5/8" T&G Zip on a roof. We also bought a tape dispenser so we could apply the tape they require. It worked very well and I would use it again.

It was somewhat heavy and driving the T&G together was a pain but it was nice having it weather tight as soon as we were done.

Dave
 

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KemoSabe
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I build in 110MPH wind zone so it is required. I don't think you have to buy it that way.
You don't, these are not T&G.:thumbsup:
 

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I have used it many times and it is very good , I live in Mass. on an island and we do not need T&G to meet the 110 mph code . The stuff is one of the better things to have come out in the last few years . We also use the zip wall and roof system as an air barrier for energy efficiency. So we are getting double bang for our buck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have used it many times and it is very good , I live in Mass. on an island and we do not need T&G to meet the 110 mph code . The stuff is one of the better things to have come out in the last few years . We also use the zip wall and roof system as an air barrier for energy efficiency. So we are getting double bang for our buck
So, just to be sure, Tyvek is not needed with the Zip system? Just tape the seams and you're done?
 

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Pro
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what happens if you are sheathing a 12 pitch and you put cleats all over the place? follow-up with tar?
what about nail heads?

nevermind, they want you to tape the holes.
 

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what happens if you are sheathing a 12 pitch and you put cleats all over the place? follow-up with tar?
what about nail heads?

nevermind, they want you to tape the holes.
The book says cut a 2" x 2" piece of tape and stick it on the penetration point. After 10 minutes the tape bonds to the surface material and you're done.

 

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I've only used the 5/8" non-T&G. The stuff does however have a small lip for gapping along the 8' edge. I haven't done any 2' o.c. except for trusses and these last 4 Zip projects were stick framed rafters at 16" o.c. (2x12s on 3 and 2x6s on 1).


Search out Loneframer or Tim Uhler's previous posts on the subject. A thorough education.

DO NOT let the product get wet. I had some Zip Wall wick water along the ground and the wall was WaVy like crazy - I will see if I have some pictures. On a 16" o.c. wall the zip wall would bow or cup up to 3/4" in between the studs. Thankfully I was matching an existing old house that was already all wavy and tilted. It matched almost perfectly.
 

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KemoSabe
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DO NOT let the product get wet. I had some Zip Wall wick water along the ground and the wall was WaVy like crazy - I will see if I have some pictures. On a 16" o.c. wall the zip wall would bow or cup up to 3/4" in between the studs. Thankfully I was matching an existing old house that was already all wavy and tilted. It matched almost perfectly.
This material will wick water. It's an Advantech product, but doesn't share the same water resistant properties as their T&G decking. Probably has something to do with the bonding of the surface layer.
 

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Square Pants,


I highly suggest you get in contact with the Zip rep in your area. There are some very huge rebates right now. And he will have further info for you about the panels and tape. Try to get some free shirts too, I'm wearing one right now ;)

We use 7/16" OSB on our roofs under comp, framing 24" oc. That is the norm here, but we upsize to 5/8" under tile. The last frame we did we used the 1/2" zip on the roof and it was nice and flat and plenty stiff. It was also very grippy.

The house we are on now is all 12-12, so I'll be curious to see how grippy it is in cold weather. We'll use toe boards anyway to sheathe the roof.

I was looking at the invoices and it is about double for the roof panels. I need to get the bid from our roofer to see how much less it is using this system than the last time we built this house and didn't use the Zip.

For us, I feel that the wall panels are a no brainer. The roof panels make sense if you can't schedule roofers in and its going to be wet. I think they make sense, but not every time. Our roofer is going to start using them on reroofs though because they can dry in as they sheathe the roof. So for things like that I think it makes perfect sense.

For us, it'll take 3-5 days to sheathe the roof of the one we are on, so we can dry in as we go, but the roofers will probably roof it in 2 days. It is 150 sheets. We are trying to seal the deal with a potential custom and the customer was looking at our website photos and really likes the idea of the zip. It does make the house pop from the street.


Rebate link http://www.zipsystem.com/getting-started/rebates.aspx
 

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I don't see how the panels would compete against 15lb. felt on the roof. The roof has a lot less labor savings than the walls, plus I'd rather not spend time taping seams on a steep roof. The walls do look appealing, though.
 
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