Have you considered making the 1/2" bend first? You may have to adjust the pressure clamp to get it to hold. I don't use a roller so the leg would not be an issue for me.

A set of hemming/seeming bars would work also.

Tom

 

I haven't tried the 1/2" first. I use a roller because I don't do this often enough and the roller gives nice consistent results.

I will try on some scrap and see if I can work it backwards but the leg may have to be done first.

 

Trick for bending 1/2" or even a 1/4" bend is pretty simple.
Just make the first bend at a 45*,flip stock,and metal will
slide in close enough to get it to the 1/2" width.Bend this
at a 45* also then flip again,get first 45*to a 90*,flip and
finish.
By not setting the first bend at 90*,you'll be able to get past
the edge of the hinged section of the brake.

If you have to make a 1/2" J section you can put metal scraps,
extending past the lip of your first 90* bend,set your stock at 1/2",
and the scraps will hold your stock in place.

Hard to explain,but it works good once you've done it a couple times.

 

this is what John is saying,do partial bends so when you flip the coil over you can lock it in the brake,then go back and complete the bends

 

Thanks John for the description and Tom for the pictures. I tried a little free hand bending today and that worked better than using the roller for the profile part.

The roller works well if you're ok with two pieces but it doesn't look like I can do it with one piece. I'll use some of these techniques and try again tomorrow.

 

Those 1/2" bends are tricky for that and it reminds me of wrapping around exterior wood stops left in place on one piece brick mold window casing wraps. The Pro's nailed with their description and pictures. I wish that I would have had seasoned guys like that to learn from in my early days. Having to figure the brake bends out by trail and error sure burnt some of brain cells over the years.

Going partial bends with just 45 and flipping is how I do it.

 

Well this is what I got with starting in the middle at the 1/2" bend and ditching the roller.

 

You can do the roller first without the leg that slips in. Just move the dies out and bend the leg after your 1/2" bend. You will get the hang of keeping it in the roller without the leg.

 

very rare i do a 1 pc full door wrap anymore if i wrap them at all,2 pc give you more flexibility at install and it's easier to replace damaged sections should the need arise

 

But then you get into the issue of nailing it. I hate nailing aluminum. Maybe I don't know what I'm doing but I get pieces that look nice and then take a nail to them and they look awful.

I'll take a picture tomorrow of a piece I made that looks terrible now. I have a way I'm going to try and fix it, but anyway...

Doing the one piece it just about doesn't need nails by the time you get it on. I really don't like the nails on the jamb face as it tends to make the piece not look as good.

All that said, I respect your siding/aluminum advice a great deal and would love to hear more on your preference of 2 piece wraps and why they are easier.

 

i respect you too and understand the nail thing:thumbsup:

 

I'm also not very experienced so I suffer from lack of knowing the best practices.

That's why I respect you. You seem to have all that figured out and give great advice.

 

experience is all it is and i have nothing figured out..:sad:every job is a little different with different problems,if i'm good at anything it's how to fix my own screwups

like i said the 2 pc gives a little more flexibility,remember no piece of wood trim is as straight as the brake,also .019 coil is pretty flimsy stuff,you may find even tho the edges are nailed the center may tend to ''puff''out

go to a siding supplier and pick up a trim nail punch..it's under 10 bucks and will become your best friend

 

Like Tom I do all of mine in two pieces. Alot of the doors jambs anymore seem to be less then 1/2 ". I have at times I have used silicone caulk to glue them to the jambs , which so far seems to have held up. One thing that seems to help , at lease for me, is to not set the nail with a hammer but rather use a nail set or such to do it, I use a old door hinge pin. also I don't use the painted trim nails with the waffle head, use a # 3 and will even clip the head some too and use touchup paint.

 

What's the difference in hitting it with a hammer and hitting a nail set with a hammer that's hitting the nail?

 

Use an awl to make a hole for the nail. Do not set the nail tight.

One other thing------ stainless steel trim nails.

Tom

 

An awl that's bigger than the nail so the aluminum is loose?

Are they painted SS?

 

This may be stating the obvious and make me look stupid...
I have always been a fan of locating the nails in the inside corners of the bent coil.

 

absolutely use the corners,not only to help conceal the nail but also..this is a little hard to explain but it allows the metal to ''float'',nailing in the field locks it

 

Just to be clear, you guys are referring to the actual inside corner in the bend? I can see where the punch would be needed...

 

I've always cladded my jamb and brickmold wrapping on by back caulking the aluminum with Novaflex. No nails ever. I hem the inside return of the brick molding to help with rigidity. Having a modern well tuned brake is paramount. I also perform this in two separate pieces. I've found that 5/16" for the return to the inside by the weatherstripping kerf works for me without obscuring the kerf. Standard new construction jambs will have about a 2 7/16" jamb face give or take some frog hairs. I go about 1/2" to the face return unless I can go heavy and slide behind the brick molding.

The brick mold profile is done either free hand or with Van Mark's trim former that runs 2" heavy on the face to account for the hem thickness on the inside return which is typically 1" heavy. The outer return I try to get as deep as possible depending on the installation. Never seen any oil canning or problems with blind caulking or cladding the metal on.

 

Standard new construction jambs will have about a 2 7/16" jamb face give or take some frog hairs.

It's also a stabila level with the flat part of a sharp carpenter pencil guided down the side. So I guess that's a stabila plus half the width of a carpenters pencil. The point is no measuring needed and it turns out perfect every time. Hopefully this makes since. If not I will try to get a few pictures.

 

I always go 3/8" behind the weatherstrip then jamb size then an inch which I open the brick molding a little and tuck into after which I close and do the next piece. Like already mentioned not only is it easier but its going to get dented at some point.

 

I didn't realize people were still wrapping exterior door trim.

Never seen it stay looking good very long anyway, dents, black streaks etc.

 

Changed the service door on my garage last year. Didn't wrap it for those reasons. Little paint, good to go.

Tom

 

Just about everything around here gets capped.

 

Our area everybody seems to want low maintenance. The HO waked outside and said "Good, no paint."

Different strokes for different folks.

 

Paint looks fantastic on door jambs, especially when it's all over the hinges, Q-lon, strike plates..........:laughing:

 

what side of the door are you capping?:blink:

 

You can two piece it and use VHB and silicone to hold the metal to the jamb...no nails.

I do it both ways. It just depends on my mood. Definitely do a partial bend on the 1/2" leg first.

 

...and why does every door have brickmould style casing? It's really only appropriate on a brick house imo

 

I'll never use wood brickmold on the outside anymore...if the frame is getting capped I'll bury it behind PVC BM.

No need to get fancy with the brake especially around doors.

 

It's to the point now that FJP brickmold and PVC brickmold are the same price for me. No brainer.