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Some have said worm drives are too heavy for them to have one. I agree that sometimes they can be a little heavy but I just prefer them over circ saws. Here are some tricks I use to help out sometimes.

Worm drives do have some weight to them so it is not the best thing to lower them down by just the cord. Here I loop the cord under the top handle then wrap it around the nose to lower the saw. Taking the weight off where the cord goes into the saw. I know they reinforce the tool at that point but this is better.

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I like to cut off my rafter tails from the top. At certain angles this can get tricky and it tends to tire out the forearm and wrist from holding a worm drive and cutting. Here I use the cord again to help support the saw at the nose by coming from the back of the saw and wrapping around the bevel adjust nut. Really helps with fatigue.

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You guys have any tricks for slinging the saw?
 

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Well, I prefer to cut the tails when they're on the sawhorses.........

When making bevel cuts on rafters, especially if I'm using the 8 1/4, I tend to push more with my knuckles on the back of the motor than on the handle.
 

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Circ saw tricks, :whistling


Cutting wood with nails.

If I am cutting through wood that I know has one or more nails in the kerf path, I keep the blade spinning at full power and cut very slowly. Most carbide blades today are pretty good at cutting an occasional nail without losing any sharpness. Just go real slow as to not get the teeth snagged on the harder nails.


Also, keeping my face behind and in-line with the blade housing helps keep the hot metal debris chips from biting me on the face.


I always wear safety glasses, ear plugs, and a bandana at work. The bandana adds lower face protection if debris is flying, and shade or warmth for my neck otherwise.


I find that debris from a sidewinder is less of an issue when using the guide to cut sheathings and dimensional sticks, because the blade is hidden from your eyes by the blade housing. If you can see the blade, it can see you . . . :sad:

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