Knockdown

 

Roll skim... but then again, the only way to do it easy is to do it properly.

 

Damn that is right Ive completely overlooked that ...I feel like an idiot, that's common knowledge. Hey I'm sorry to waste your time like I said I'm new to this. I appreciate you taking the time to set me straight on this, my ignorance was killing my business and one word may have just saved it .Thanks bro. Another lesson learned the hard way.

 

Glad to help.:thumbsup:

 

As long as you become a participating member you aren'twasting anybody's time,we are a community. Some on here just know alot like GeneCarp and Ron the Plumber but you do know in order to get some results(like smooth walls) somebody's got to smooth em, and that is 2-3 trips through the room. Sell that..............people who bought into those texture fads are gonna one day hate em and it's gonna cost somebody ( either them or the poor sap who bids it like a high build primer will hide it. Sell the service and you will soon get faster and better at skimming and hopefully you will get a decent wage in the process.:thumbsup:

 

on really badly gouged walls, I will roll it on and pull it down with a squeege, pole sanding breifly between coats, can be done quickly and will save you some serious time. a cpl of passes and your on your way

 

i make my living by making tertured walls and ceilings smooth again have done hundreds of them I have a very good system for doing this however it does take time can explain it here I mix concrete fill and drywall mud togeither 30% con fill 70% mud trowel over the area with this mix first coat just to level the area when it has set up but not hard yet i trowel it again to smooth all riges out then try to fill over it the same day with mud no sanding at this piont next day i apply another coat of straight mud one more coat over with thin mud the following day you can sand at this piont if you need to I dont as i spend a little more time making it smooth it should come out as smooth as glass however if you are going over wall paper I would paint the paper with two coats of oil priemer frist to seal it

 

i make my living by making tertured walls and ceilings smooth again have done hundreds of them i have a very good system for doing this however it does take time can explain it here i mix concrete fill and drywall mud togeither 30% con fill 70% mud trowel over the area with this mix first coat just to level the area when it has set up but not hard yet i trowel it again to smooth all riges out then try to fill over it the same day with mud no sanding at this piont next day i apply another coat of straight mud one more coat over with thin mud the following day you can sand at this piont if you need to i dont as i spend a little more time making it smooth it should come out as smooth as glass however if you are going over wall paper i would paint the paper with two coats of oil priemer frist to seal it

huh???????

 

Hey bh54 can you elaborate a little more on your method. What kind or brand of concrete fill? Are you talking about quick set concrete? Have you had any problems with it peeling or flaking off when painting or wallpapering on top of?

Thanks

 

Durabond.:whistling

 

I have never heard of Durabond being called Concrete fill. Is that a regional thing?

 

http://public.graco.be/0/?d=590

around $5500.00 new, find one used for less. Sprays a Level 5 finish. Invest in this puppy and you will be GOLDEN :thumbsup: I got to play around with one. Went to the drywall and messed it up with a 5in1 and then sprayed this over the damage and it covered like the damage was never there!

 

Who mixes concrete with drywall mud why would you do this? what are you working to make stucco, that's sand, portland cement and lime:thumbsup: I have never heard of this kinda of mix. so what type of drywall mud do you use for this skim coat?


www.frankawitz.net

 

ok first of all concrete fill is not concrete or any thing like concrete it is a drywall product made by synkoliod you should be able to buy it at most drywall supply companies it was first made to go over concrete cinder block walls it can be sanded however I do not sand it I will try to explain later as to why not con fill sets up fast just like fast set maybe not quit as quick i mix it with drywall mud because it does not set up as fast that way and it also trowels much better it will self level on a wall or ceiling it you have good control with your trowel not only to i use it over cement but i also make texured ceiling smooth with this product as for over wall paper if you prime it with 2 coats of oil sealer the wall paper will not peal or very very little peaping will happen and no I AM NOT A MAD SCIENTIST I AM AN OLD FUUUUCK maYBE THE LAST MASTER DRYWALL FINISHERS AROUND NOT HAPPY TO SAY THAT BUT ITS TRUE try working with this product and you will be amazed and what it can do

 

All I can find is an interior and exterior spackling paste. That's not it, is it?

 

It'nit fun? Learnin' new ish every day. Thats why i love my job:thumbsup:

 

http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/brochure/EJC_0J38_09.pdf

What is the difference between this and brown bag durabond?

Can you get this in the US?

 

http://www.cgcinc.com/pdf/brochure/EJC_0J38_09.pdf

What is the difference between this and brown bag durabond?

Can you get this in the US?

ar you talking about the OLd and I mean 30 years ago durabond that required a belt sander to sand. I HATE tha sh*t always have and always will. easy sand or gauging plaster on the other hand is good.

 

it is very strange to me that you cant find concrete fill every single taper i know has a bag of it in thier truck most drywall contractors when they load material on a job site have a bag of it deleivered we use it to pre fill / we use it when we are matching old drywall to new/ if you have a basd butt it levels it/ and making ruff surfaces smooth trust me there is not a taper in victoria that does not use this product??

 

]it is very strange to me that you cant find concrete fill every single taper i know has a bag of it in thier truck most drywall contractors when they load material on a job site have a bag of it deleivered we use it to pre fill / we use it when we are matching old drywall to new/ if you have a basd butt it levels it/ and making ruff surfaces smooth trust me there is not a taper in victoria that does not use this product??[/quote]

 

When you say Victoria, are you talking Victoria, BC?

 

Not only am I running a fledgling remodel company (2 Employees) but Im going at it with limited experience in the drywall area. My experience in painting and trim carpentry have duped me into believing I was ready to tackle anything, unfortunately my first three jobs have included bringing old walls back to near perfect condition because of particular paint schemes (satin,eggshells,and a first for me-Brilliant Metals<--a semi-gloss based nightmare, anyway my question is ...am I killing myself by perscribing complete wall skimming for wallpaper damaged walls? What are the alternatives if any and how can I ensure that my pricing is consistent with the man hours this requires. My labor cost for painting is set to include minor patching but this process sometimes requires 2 to 3 trips through a room to get the results were looking for...please tell me theres a better way besides replacing all the sheetrock.

To get nicked up, badly damaged walls in shape-you gotta skim coat. Otherwise all imperfections will show through the new paint. It should take you almost the same amount of time to skimcoat as it would take to systematically patch and repair each and every little spot on the wall. Without skimcoating, consistency in the overall appearance of the wall's smoothness would be lost.

The way I do it is:
1. Patch and sand bad areas.
2. Skimcoat all walls with compound, then sponge sand.
3. Prime and paint.

p.s. If you don't know how many man hours to charge, do a test wall at home. Take a tool and mar up a wall. Then track the time involved from start to finish. Good luck.

 

yes i am in victoria bc and I just had another thought as to how you might find concrete fill they use either this product or concrete seal over concrete ceilings in high rises before they are either texured or painted now you could use con seal for what i have been saying as well although it does set up a little faster and is not as easy to trowel you would need a little more control woth your trowel however if you find out where plasters who work in these high rise get thier supplies you should be able to get both products from them hope this helps

 

Thanks bh54, I am always looking for more efficient ways of doing things.

 

edit: sorry thought this was your other thread.. you really need to look into this setup.

 

bh54,

Are you going for the record for longest run on sentence? It is insanely difficult to figure out what you are trying to say without punctuation.

 

so are u trying to help me wIth my punctuation and spelling or do u really want to learn some thing fro a master drywall finisher???

 

I would love to learn something from a master drywall finisher. Do you know one?:w00t:

You did leave yourself open for that one. But seriously, I can't learn from you if I can't understand what you are trying to say.

 

Just hit the "enter" key every couple of sentences, makes what you write much easier to read...

It's pretty easy to do.

I just did it again.

 

skimcoating old walls

Concerning skim coats in a level 5 finish,i have a mark 4 graco that does and excellent job ,especially on old plastered walls here in the north east in maine.I used to roll on with roller and and skim close with 2 thin coats which works well,i like the idea of using a squeegee as well