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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not an uncommon thing for me to be doing when the weather is getting good.

It was 80 degs over the weekend and Spring has sprung so they say...although you wouldn't know it last night as the cold winds zipped it down below freezing and we had a mini sleet storm.

Cold as hell this morning with a stiff wind and lingering ice and i'm off to patch a window sill in and replace some column bases.

Seems the customer had a carpenter who replaced these bases previously, but doesn't like the way they look...can't quite blame them I suppose :blink:

Also have a window sill that's been hacked into, then abandoned with Bondo, Protecto, frog tape and plastic :blink: Not sure what happened here :laughing: but I told him I'd just rip it out and start from scratch if he doesn't mind :whistling

I'll tell you this,...frog tape and protecto that's been down awhile surely does stick :rolleyes:

It will be my typical repair of Bondo Glass and PVC. I'll mill out a new sill nose and feather the rest. The bases, I'll miter some up a little bigger so it looks more balanced.
 

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How old is the house? We replace noses on windows quite often but you can just use the pvc from HD and it fits right in.

Just curious if it's age or location.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
House is about twenty years old, 3500/4000 sq ft i'm guessing, Hurd double hung, typical FJ pine trim lathered in latex, with stucco and stone facade and she's ripe for pickings :thumbup:

No sill laying around the shop this morning so I just ripped my own, easy enough out of 2x2 and it saves a trip to the yard :wallbash:
 

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General Contractor
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Not an uncommon thing for me to be doing when the weather is getting good.

It was 80 degs over the weekend and Spring has sprung so they say...although you wouldn't know it last night as the cold winds zipped it down below freezing and we had a mini sleet storm.

Cold as hell this morning with a stiff wind and lingering ice and i'm off to patch a window sill in and replace some column bases.

Seems the customer had a carpenter who replaced these bases previously, but doesn't like the way they look...can't quite blame them I suppose :blink:

Also have a window sill that's been hacked into, then abandoned with Bondo, Protecto, frog tape and plastic :blink: Not sure what happened here :laughing: but I told him I'd just rip it out and start from scratch if he doesn't mind :whistling

I'll tell you this,...frog tape and protecto that's been down awhile surely does stick :rolleyes:

It will be my typical repair of Bondo Glass and PVC. I'll mill out a new sill nose and feather the rest. The bases, I'll miter some up a little bigger so it looks more balanced.
Beautiful work SS, keep it up! :thumbsup:
 

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Contractor of the Month
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Damn that turned out alright!
 

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Superseal,
Looks good!

I've had pretty good luck with Bondo too on my personal "English Tudor" home, repairing Masonite Stuccato hard board, & Semco wood windows. The one thing I'd add to what you do is to use the Minwax wood hardener to stabilize the soft wood, & also to primer the bondo for paint. If you don't primer the bondo, reg. paint primers tend to peel.

Joe
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Superseal,
Looks good!

I've had pretty good luck with Bondo too on my personal "English Tudor" home, repairing Masonite Stuccato hard board, & Semco wood windows. The one thing I'd add to what you do is to use the Minwax wood hardener to stabilize the soft wood, & also to primer the bondo for paint. If you don't primer the bondo, reg. paint primers tend to peel.

Joe
I only use the bondo glass (is that what you use?)

The hardener is a good idea for intricate work where leaving grey wood or trying to salvage a lot of detail, but with windows, I aim to cut it back to solid then pin the patches with stainless screws so I can move right along.

Here's what I came up with for the post bases,...just milled some 5/4 PVC stock and added legs to help ventilate the wood column.

A little primer and some paint, and I can collect a check :thumbup:
 

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Looks good, nice repair, I have 20 plus aluminum clad Hurds in the dumpster right now. Working in a cul de sac neighborhood in West Chester, nothing but Hurds.


Soon many problems with those windows, job right now , HO is replacing because her windows couldn't be opened with out a butter knife. A lot probably has to do with the piss poor install.

I'm a big fan of the all purpose Bondo. Not quite as crafty as you with it. I put that chit on everything
 

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superseal said:
Yes, the buried screws pin the patch to the surrounding wood and those nibs on top of the finished sill secure the full screen.
That is honestly brilliant. Every patch I see failing is a mass of bondo or rock hard water putty that is just crammed into a space and is allowed to keep rotting and then a big lump of putty comes loose.

How quickly does the bondo cure to where you can prime and paint it? We are currently using durhams rock hard water putty and I honestly hate the stuff. Primer doesn't seem to want to stick and and takes at least a day for a reasonable sized patch to be sand able.

Right now we have to tell clients it's a temporary patch that is going to fail.

As I see it, the way you are eliminating that would be, removing all the rot completely, not just digging out the loose stuff. I have been reading about the penetrating epoxy which we actually have from a different use. I assume that would work if it was too hard to remove all the rot thoroughly?

Your repair looks excellent though, can't even tell it's not original wood!
 

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I do a lot of those type repairs. I use Abatron.

Question - the fence on the sill to hold the Bondo build up - how do you get it to release properly ? I suppose you score with a knife and remove promptly ?

Any tips to get a fence to release from Bondo mostly on a bit deeper fills ? It sticks to wood ?

Btw - if anyone is interested Abatron Wood Epox releases better if you coat the fence with PAM spray.
 

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Renaissance Man
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I do a lot of those type repairs. I use Abatron.

Question - the fence on the sill to hold the Bondo build up - how do you get it to release properly ? I suppose you score with a knife and remove promptly ?

Any tips to get a fence to release from Bondo mostly on a bit deeper fills ? It sticks to wood ?

Btw - if anyone is interested Abatron Wood Epox releases better if you coat the fence with PAM spray.
Bondo releases easy if you use PVC as the fence,...I'll usually rip down some 3/4" stock into 3/8" strips and use the factory edge. You do want to pull it fairly soon, right after the initial set when the patch is still generating heat.
 
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