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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I went to look at at house that they claimed to have mold growing on the ceiling of the exterior walls. The man was sure on the phone his roof was leaking and I figured it was a ventilation issue.

When I arrived the older couple showed me the mold. It was on the drywall on the exterior walls. I made my way to the attic and noticed that the insulation was at about an R-19 and that majority of it was blocking the soffit intake (there is vented panels all along the eaves of the 4/12 hip roof). Also all the nails were covered in frost as was most of the underside of all the 1/2" CDX. Most of the sheathing looked bad as I was unable to walk on the roof because of the snow we've had.

I explained their ventilation problem to them. That the best solution would be to remove the 2 layers of comp shingles, replace plywood as need, new roof system with proper ventilation. As for the attic install air chutes and enough insulation to achieve an R-38. The man looked at his wife and said, "honey it looks like we have a major problem". He then turned to me and said, " Put me on your list and come spring fix us up right". I was shocked, I told him I would come back when the snow was melted and measure the roof up. I would give him a job proposal and bring some literature. He was OK with that but it didn't seem like a big deal to him. It was real nice for somebody to gain my trust like that, understand the problem and be willing to take care of it.

A little more about the house. The current weather has been snow for a few weeks, anywhere between 0 and 20f. There was frost all over the attic, underside of sheathing, nails,joists, insulation. Like I said its really short on insulation, the intake is blocked, and there is not enough exhaust. So does my solution of; R-38 insulation, air chutes, and new roof system with ventilation sound like a fix. Am I missing anything? Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In my area (mid Missouri) I believe R-38 is recommended. They may have just changed that to R-40 or I thought I heard that. They currently have about R-19 and I am wanting them to get to a R-38.
 

· Wood Craftsman
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I would have to agree with you~ some things to consider.

A little more about the house. The current weather has been snow for a few weeks, anywhere between 0 and 20f. There was frost all over the attic, underside of sheathing, nails,joists, insulation. Like I said its really short on insulation, the intake is blocked, and there is not enough exhaust. So does my solution of; R-38 insulation, air chutes, and new roof system with ventilation sound like a fix. Am I missing anything? Thanks guys
My first question to you is "where are you installing the insulation"~ the roof joists or the ceiling joists or both? Don't laugh~ I have seen both and it is redundant and overkill (if not needed for the desired R-value) and a waist of money to me. I believe R-30(It's actually R-32~ R-13 in between the ceiling joists/R-19 overlapping perpendicular to the ceiling joists) will be more than adequate for the insulation system. If the ridge does not have a ventilation system the heat loss will ponder at the eve due to the lack of ventilation at the ridge. the heat pockets at the eve area can cause problems such as what you have stated ,frost on the interior of the framing members and the sheathing, among other issues such as ice build up and leaking around the eves of the roof, regardless of the ice shield (if even installed).
Second question , are the sofits actually venting ~ i would check that first. I have been on jobs where they had a complete siding job done years ago and they didn't open up the eves for ventilation, they put vented panels every 4' but no blow out holes to ventilate into the attic.:w00t: Not to mention the roof joists were insulated-"not the ceiling joists" there was no air circulation and every roof joist/eve slot should have been blown out and air baffles installed. If your going to insulate the roof joists a full air baffle system from eve to ridge is necessary for every joists to have proper ventilation and will contribute to a longer life span on the shingles and prevent damage at the eve area. If they use the attic you will have to install the insulation at the roof joists & the ceiling joists to acquire the desired R-value, I have no idea what is in the attic so I am just guessing . if they don't use the attic ~ install the 3' air chute at the eve 1" past the wall plate on every roof/ceiling joist union and install the insulation in the ceiling joist area. You may have to do both to get the R value you want that all depends on the framing member dimensions and if the attic is being used.

R-32 is sufficient in between and overlapping on the ceiling joists, again, if they don't use it for storage~ you can bump that up if you like but that is going to effect you're quotation obviously.

Dot your I's and cross your T's before you submit your proposal and things will go very smooth without any bumps along the way. You obviously know about this but I just wanted to give you my opinion but you are correct there is a serious lack of ventilation - good luck and I hope things go smooth for you~:clap:

hope this helps.
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Brian. To make it clear I plan on insulating the ceiling joists and not the roof joists. The baffles will be 1' into the overhang and 3' into the interior past the top plate.
 

· KemoSabe
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What you call a rafter when you can't think of the word 'rafter'. :laughing:
An electrician friend of mine calls everything "beams":laughing: Roof beams, ceiling beams, floor beams, wall beams...:rolleyes: He asked me one time if I could cut a beam out for him.:eek: He needed a stud moved to locate his panel box.:thumbup:
 

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In my area (mid Missouri) I believe R-38 is recommended. They may have just changed that to R-40 or I thought I heard that. They currently have about R-19 and I am wanting them to get to a R-38.

I'll be working in your neighborhood week after next. Unlike you, I'll be inside where it's nice & warm.
 

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Where might that be at? Are you located somewhere close to Brookfield?

I'm in Atlanta. About 45 minutes east of ya. I don't know the addy. I haven't even seen the job yet. Gave my base sq ft price over the phone & set the date. They don't get any easier than that.:laughing: We've worked in Brookfield before & our reputation preceeded us.
 
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