Everybody does it. The secret to cladding sills on wood windows is: use sill trim right up to the glass. Make sure the sill projects at least 1 1/2 inches past the finished wall (stucco, siding, etc) below the window. (If it doesn't you can nail on 1x2) It is very important to have a good slope on the cladding, both on top, and underneath, so water runs off. Then caulk between the sill trim and the glass, and against the brickmold. If slope is good that's all you need, trapped moisture can vent out underneath, you don't need to caulk there. That sill will outlast the rest of the window.I've heard that once you cut the moisture off from a rotten sill, it will not continue to rot. Any truth? Was wondering what the opinions were on wrapping a soft semi-rotten sill with aluminum.
I also agree with that view. Most of the callbacks we get on window cladding relate to water getting in around the drip cap. Most of the houses built up here during the 70's, 80's, and 90's had wood windows, and stucco finish. The window manufacturer started out by offering lifetime warranty, now I think it's down to about 6 or 7 years. We are kept busy replacing the smaller windows with triple glazed PVC, but most of the bigger houses (usually with vaulted ceilings) have massive wood windows, where the wood still looks really great on the inside. If they are triple glazed, we simply clad these all around, using sill trim right to the glass. The cladding is usually slipped under the existing drip cap on top the window. However, our installers are reluctant to caulk above the windows, because local building codes call for the building paper to overlap the top of the drip cap under the stucco, and this is supposed to allow condensed moisture to vent out over the capping. (in theory) The last two callbacks I had were both related to the builder having used 2 pieces of drip cap instead of one continuous piece. The wood shrinks, and water backs up between the two pieces. In a case like this, all you can do is caulk it up tight, right to the ends of the drip cap, which is also a common area of water penetration.i agree with smilelydog his advice on the sill is rite on:thumbsup:but most window sill failures ive seen started out with missing metal drip caps on the heads
It sure will continue to rot, wood decay is caused by a living bacteria, removing the worst of it, still leaves the bacteria present.I've heard that once you cut the moisture off from a rotten sill, it will not continue to rot. Any truth? Was wondering what the opinions were on wrapping a soft semi-rotten sill with aluminum.
--=shaking my head, if you ever bought a pc of sill stock, yup you would see it is the "entire" sill not just the nosing or any other portion of the sill.Burby says all the wood needs to be replaced on the windowsill. You do realize that the typical window sill extends from the outside of the sill, right to the inside where the window casing attach. If you take this out, what holds the sash and glass in place? If the window is that bad, shouldn't it be replaced? This is what our company does. Only, we replace the entire unit with one made of PVC. But if the window has minor deterioration on the sill or brick, they can save a lot of the green stuff by capping. Probably what makes the difference is your local climate. Here in Winnipeg, we have an extremely dry climate. I think the rules change if you live in an area with a humid climate.
Single, Double hung, 3/0 or smaller, sill R&R only = $450.00 eawhat do you guys usually charge to replace windows sills?
It don't have to all come out. There are those that do the 30 min or less swap out & there is a customer base for that. It's just not my customer base.Seems like your turning it into a big job here. All you have to do is take the stool off, maybe the apron and thats it. I can have a sill changed out in under 30 mins less paint. No wonder you have to charge so much your taking the whole window apart just to replace the sill.