Window seat wall framing box out

It looks as though the gable facia is in line with the eyebrow/ wall facia. It sure looks silly but just put a seat cut on the facia, dive it into the wall facia and let the flashing/ trim do the rest. Other wise you could see if they were open to shrinking the gable overhangs 6" or so. It looks like the other gable in the picture is drawn the same way. I've done it both ways but the later is definitely better

festerized said:

Having major issues with this homeowner hired architect. Am I seeing the details correctly? Don’t see how the eyebrow roof is going to work?

Click to expand...

Yes, a little funky, no details, there . . . :jester:


If the pitch of the seat's eyebrow is 9/12 (matching the Gable roof over the BR) then the tallest the 18" off-set wall plates at the window seat can be is 4-1/2" less than the typical second floor Plate height. (9' ?)


*If the ceiling over the window seat is dropped a full 12", (Window Headers @ 6' 8" ?) the plate height will be below the soffit line and make things easier to frame. (The plate could be built up to pitch, or the ceiling furred down, depending on finished ceiling height over the seat, and chosen plate height of seat walls, or frame seat walls under the soffit, :whistling)


It is not clear to me exactly how far back the gable is set from the fascia. (?) The same 12", or different, 18" or maybe 24"? In any case, a 12" ceiling drop looks better than a 4-1/2" drop, and provides easier framing options. IMO.

...

Take a close look at this detail and then look at the previous details I posted, something doesn’t jive. It looks like the cad program wouldn’t allow the eye brow so the architected added some kind of column? Which may explain why the eyebrow is not shown on the roof plan

I think the trim detail of the window seat box just looks like columns from the side. The eyebrow is completely covered by the in-line barges and he has too much going on in the drawing that the hidden lines of the eyebrow roof are not included, top or side views, and not notated. This opens the doors for some "interpretation".


I'd allow enough header height (7' 0" ?) to flash the sill of the seat window over the ridge underneath it. Looks very tight. And the gable above will need to project out from the BR face wall to create space for the round attic vent, or the eyebrow pitch will need to be less.


The plans look like plan factory plans. They are always drawn for somewhere else . . .

...

festerized said:

Take a close look at this detail and then look at the previous details I posted, something doesn’t jive. It looks like the cad program wouldn’t allow the eye brow so the architected added some kind of column? Which may explain why the eyebrow is not shown on the roof plan

Click to expand...

That's not really a construction detail, it's an elevation that doesn't address how the assembly is to be built. Regarding the CAD program one should be able to draw any detail that can be done by hand with the program so that shouldn't be an excuse not to have the construction details on the plan showing how the architect is proposing the assembly be constructed.

Why don't you contact the architect and ask to go over the part of the roof assembly that isn't clear; if he's reasonable there should be no reason you two can't put your heads together and come up with a good way to achieve the goal, especially with the good feedback from up the thread.

The detail I've attached isn't related to your problem but is just an example of a construction detail for those who might not be familiar with them.

The gable is in line with the 13'-1" wide wall below. Build it just like you normally do. Install outriggers.

The window seat wall sits 1'-6" beyond that wall. Plate height is 4.5" lower than the rest of the walls.

Build a shed roof on top of that window seat wall. Keep the heel height of the rafters the same as the commons over the bedroom.

Cut tails at the same ratio of 12" on the sides and 6" on the front (from the window seat wall).

Nail fascia on all the way around. Extend it to meet at the corners.

Put fake tails on either side of the window seat area as well as a fake hip.

Seat cut barge and nail to outriggers.

Sheet.

That was quick and dirty. Adjust as necessary for the enclosed soffit. I don't think the design is all that bad, just the presentation. You shouldn't need a double 2x10 over the window. You'll need a beam at the 13'-1" wall line to support the ridge, that's where the dbl. 2x10 should go. The ceiling in the window seat area will be flat. That's what the dashed line shows.

Figured an update was due