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I don't care for Silverline Windows much, but they have a really nice applied exterior casing.

The Windows I used on my house were KasKel Ecoshield triple glazed. The sashes are nice but I thought the exterior casings were poorly done. The ones on the Silverlines are 50x nicer.

I don't either but that's what we have been using. The interior fit and finish is nothing amazing. They are the only ones that I have installed with the integrated channel which is really nice for vinyl.
 
I dislike most of the windows and sliders with integrated j-channel. The ones in my area are a much lowwr grade econ window for production homes. Also, one misplaced hammer swing and that j is broke. I've been on jobs to fix siding issues with these windows and doors, in cold weather I've had them break when my guys were a little rough popping out installed vinyl.
 
I dislike most of the windows and sliders with integrated j-channel. The ones in my area are a much lowwr grade econ window for production homes. Also, one misplaced hammer swing and that j is broke. I've been on jobs to fix siding issues with these windows and doors, in cold weather I've had them break when my guys were a little rough popping out installed vinyl.
A misplaced hammer swing will compromise an entire Anderson window as well considering the nailing fin is part of the cladding. There's always drawbacks and the chance to make an error with any product.

As far as the integrated exterior casing being on cheaper Windows, they can be applied to any grade of vinyl window.
 
This is the Jeld-Wen product. I almost bought a set for an income home - ALMOST.

The concept is good...
That's pretty much it. But we use the 3" or 3 1/2" flat casing with sill nose instead of the 908.

Another nice thing about them is the nailing flange becomes so large, you can oversize the width of the R/O a bit more to get a nice bead of spray foam around the window. This becomes a real nice bonus when you order Windows with pre applied extension jambs for 2x6 walls. If the gap is too tight, it's hard to direct the foam where it needs to be to work effectively.
 
can you post a pic of the 1'' end dams?
The other pic was different. I'll see if I can find a pic somewhere.

It's completely unnecessary, the majority of homes are built with integral vinyl flanges.

The point of the dam is to collect the water and force it to flow over the window/trim and not down the sides.
 
That's pretty much it. But we use the 3" or 3 1/2" flat casing with sill nose instead of the 908.

Another nice thing about them is the nailing flange becomes so large, you can oversize the width of the R/O a bit more to get a nice bead of spray foam around the window. This becomes a real nice bonus when you order Windows with pre applied extension jambs for 2x6 walls. If the gap is too tight, it's hard to direct the foam where it needs to be to work effectively.
I looked over the Jeld-Wen product pretty good, and really didn't find anything seriously lacking for a straight vinyl product.

But I also looked over the house pretty good, and decided that between the tired vinyl and mix of plastered and drywalled rooms, to hold off and do windows and siding in 2016, when we take it off-lease.

If I were doing both for a living, damned straight I'd think about using them.
 
The other pic was different. I'll see if I can find a pic somewhere.

It's completely unnecessary, the majority of homes are built with integral vinyl flanges.

The point of the dam is to collect the water and force it to flow over the window/trim and not down the sides.
It may be unnecessary in your situation, but the majority of windows here don't come with nailing flanges, we install ours from the inside so we don't need to get on a scaffold or scissor lift to pop them in. Saves a lot of time.
 
How do you seal those? I've done cut out replacement windows, and all you can do is caulk the whizz out of them. But in new cpnstruction, that seems like just trying to make them leak.
Some builders use self sealing membrane (tyveck tape, blue skin), instead of attaching to the nailing flange on the flat, you fold it so it hits on the side of the window and on the house-wrap (turns a 90).

Some cheaper builders just use tuck tape to do the same thing. Then what ever cladding is used gets caulk around it like normal.
 
Some builders use self sealing membrane (tyveck tape, blue skin), instead of attaching to the nailing flange on the flat, you fold it so it hits on the side of the window and on the house-wrap (turns a 90).

Some cheaper builders just use tuck tape to do the same thing. Then what ever cladding is used gets caulk around it like normal.
Don't you need to get to the outside to flash it? Seems easier if the fin is built in. Nail and done. Less chance of a leak.
 
Some replacement windows can receive nailing flanges as well, but kind of is pointless being one would usually order new construction instead if flanged windows would work. I actually did do this once being replacement windows of the manufacturer I normally order from were twice as good as new construction. Problem is you need to install the flange, do custom cutting on them to get proper overlap and watershed. Then you still need to make sure the flange junction to window is sealed being they are just in a track vs. actually welded.
 
Don't you need to get to the outside to flash it? Seems easier if the fin is built in. Nail and done. Less chance of a leak.
Ya, they get flashed with the self-seal, then a head flashing when the siding goes on. The only time I install Windows is when I frame a house, a lot of builders get the framers to install them rough as soon as they can to block out the elements.

I've seen those track flange's before, we end up pulling them out so we can install from the inside. It doesn't seem like a big deal to me, the only difference is the nailing flange, which gives you more nailing options, other than that, it's still water tight in the end.

They come with built in jambs so they are nailed in solid to the frame as well. After spray foam it's not going anywhere.
 
It may be unnecessary in your situation, but the majority of windows here don't come with nailing flanges, we install ours from the inside so we don't need to get on a scaffold or scissor lift to pop them in. Saves a lot of time.
In my experience in Calgary. Which is almost completely new construction, the vast, vast majority of builders use vinyl flange windows and the framers install them. I've never even seen a situation where someone installs from the inside. Why would they? It seems like an inferior way to do it. An integral flange is far less likely to leak in my opinion. I'm no expert mind you, but it seems like the best practice to me.
 
In my experience in Calgary. Which is almost completely new construction, the vast, vast majority of builders use vinyl flange windows and the framers install them. I've never even seen a situation where someone installs from the inside. Why would they? It seems like an inferior way to do it. An integral flange is far less likely to leak in my opinion. I'm no expert mind you, but it seems like the best practice to me.
Even with a flanged window, you can install from the inside with straps and someone can nail it off on the outside later.
 
You could I guess. Not sure why you would, but it's possible.

I've done a few spec homes now. And I've framed many houses for a couple builders. The best situation for us is to have the framer install the windows and install the window sealant (envelope seal) at the time. Most framers have a telehandler and a man basket, so that helps immensely
 
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